Pool light repair...T-3 ceramic socket

See number 10 on the link. I went to replace the lamp bulb (and gasket kit) with new and broke the tube. It inserts from one end (right side) and then fits into the left side socket. I figured it had a spring load on the right side end. Place the tube in and got it bound-up (needs a slight diagonal for install). Trying to maneuver it, I broke the lamp ($3).
Okay. Bought a new two pack set (another brand). Before I break another, can the T-3 ceramic socket be damaged? (hard to tell as you can't really see the socket. When I pulled the pool light housing for this seemly simple repair, the former lamp bulb was inside the light can bottom with both ends and broken glass.
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http://saradec.com/parts_diagrams/611.JPG
Would just the right side be spring loaded?
A halogen lamp with DO NOT TOUCH instructions. Tells me not to touch it (fingerprints) . In another world it says clean with alcohol..
Experiences with this type, please...?
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On 6/3/2012 4:31 PM, Oren wrote:

What a crappy lamp to use in a pool fixture!! One side is spring loaded. It's possible that the spring is no good, from the high heat of the lamp. You can get generic replacements at an electrical supply. The lamps get so hot, you don't want oil from your fingers left on the glass, as it'll shorten the life of the already short lived lamp.
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One advise I can give is that you don’t have to necessarily use a 300W. bulb. You can use a lesser wattage. It will not give-off as much light but will last a lot longer. If you ever have to replace the entire fixture try to get one that uses a screw in type bulb.
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AVOID!
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Here's what I know based upon several years experience with these T-3 linear halogen lamps:
- Buy a well-known brand; the junk lamps are not as sturdy. What happens is that the ceramic cement at one end or the other breaks and the socket comes loose. - Usually, only one end uses a spring-loaded socket; but a few fixtures use springs at both ends. - The sockets, spring loaded or not, are rugged and massive as they conduct heat away from the ends of the lamp and keep the seals (where the wire comes through the glass or quartz) below their failure temperature. - Check the fixture specs to see if your fixtures are designed to operate out of water. Some aren't and the fixture will overheat wrecking the fixture water seals as well as the lamp. - Don't worry about finger prints and lamp failure. It's just good practice to clean the lamp with a tissue after it's installed (and clean the inside of the fixture too - especially the glass lens); but I've never seen a lamp fail because of finger prints. At worst, the surface of the lamp becomes slightly diffuse over time. - The "Do Not Touch" instructions are there for two reasons: (1) The surface of the lamp is very hot during operation and remains hot for quite a while after the lamp is turned off. Touching the lamp when hot will do major damage instantly to fingers. Anything flammable touching the lamp will also instantly burst into flame. (2) Manufacturers figure the the warning will result in the lamp being handled carefully and kept clean -- as it should be.
Always change the lamp with the power off, of course.
Tomsic
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On 6/4/2012 6:52 AM, Tomsic wrote:

I have seen lamps bulge because of finger prints.
I usually try to not touch the lamp (or clean it) then install it using a piece of paper towel.

Interesting it is 12 volt.
But all good advice.
--
bud--



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