Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)

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On Tue, 08 May 2012 09:40:26 -0700, Oren wrote:

BTW, at Home Depot, a 2" PVC ball valve is about $11 while a Jandy valve is $90 (plus about $9 tax).
What's different?
I am calling Zodiac systems (800) 822-7933 technical support ("our call volume is high") and have been on hold for fifteen minutes. I'll wait but I wonder if anyone here knows WHAT the heck is the difference?
Should I just go with a cheaper ball valve?
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On Tue, 08 May 2012 13:26:42 -0700, Oren wrote:

Jandy is sending me a new never-lube ball valve (I'm on the phone with them right now) under warranty (the PO registered the pool equipment).
Which one do I want?
The one where the pipe goes inside the valve or the one where the pipe goes outside the valve?
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On Tue, 15 May 2012 10:03:18 -0700, Oren wrote:

Ah. Thanks for the advice. The standard ball valve from Home Depot was about 11 bucks while the Jandy valve is three to eight times that price.
But, as you said, the typical ball valve is stiff while the Jandy valve is smooth.
I guess the good news for anyone replacing a Jandy valve is that the lifetime warrantee extends to the next pool owner.
I received mine in about a week after proving to them the crack existed (using pictures over email).
Thanks for the advice.
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On Tue, 08 May 2012 10:19:49 -0700, Oren wrote:

Nope. You're wholly correct.
The valve that cracked is the one that sits closest to the ground. The surrounding valves sit up higher.
The reason, apparently, this one sits in the worst position possible is that there is a PIPE directly above it!
Why they made these pipes like the overpasses and underpasses in NYC is beyond me. Another problem is you can't easily get to it because there is a retaining wall less than a foot on the other side. I can get my arms in there - but not much else lying sideways on the ground in that foot of space.
I'm really really starting to like the idea someone suggested of the Plast-Aid acrylic. I finally got through to Jandy (Zodiac) asking what the materials are.
CPVC -> chlorinated poly vinyl chloride
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UPDATE:
The pool is filling (I decided NOT to wash it this time because the plaster was sitting dry for far too long).
Next time I'll be ready to wash it now that I know the gray is the plaster, the pretty blue is a copper stain, and the scratchy white is calcium grains due to lousy pool chemistry.
Maybe with better pool chemistry, I can actually get rid of the sandy white calcium and pretty blue stain over time without having to re-drain the pool!
Here's a shot of the pool filling up ...

Here's one of the repaired pipes with the new Jandy valve:

And, here's a closeup of the re-routing of the pipes:

I'm not a plumber - I just DIY with your help ... so if you have any final advice on the repair ... let me know so I learn for the 'next' time.
I can't start it up yet (water needs to be at the level of the skimmers) so I won't know if the screw-tight coupling will hold the pressure (50 psi?) coming out of the cleaner pump or not.
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Here is a view of the Jandy never-lube two-port valve with the top rotated correctly for the inlet side:

And, here is the view with the top rotated incorrectly for the inlet side:

In summary, these appear to be the things I learned about the Jandy valve: a) The valve is guarranteed for life (I simply showed them a picture of the crack and they sent a new one) b) It doesn't seem to matter if you get the smaller valve (where the pipe fits OVER the ends) or the larger one (where the pipe fits INSIDE the ends) c) It doesn't matter much if it's horizontal or vertical but Jandy (aka Zodiac) prefers the vertical position for leakage prevention d) It won't matter much if it's hooked up wrong - but - the INLET side should be facing the pressure side of the pipes e) If you do need to flip the valve, Jandy suggests you also flip the top cap and inner valve so that the INLET is maintained f) The proper orientation is for the pressure side to face the concave end of the flap and the rubber sealed convex side to face the pool
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On Tue, 22 May 2012 02:51:54 +0000, Arklin K. wrote:

ooops. Correction.
c) It doesn't matter much if it's horizontal or vertical but Jandy (aka Zodiac) prefers the HORIZONTAL position for leakage prevention
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On Mon, 07 May 2012 14:55:30 -0700, Oren wrote:

I think I'll take you up on this offer!
It's a mess!
Is there any downside by bringing the pipes up higher than they are (they are at knee level or below but I'd love them at belly button level).
Given this is the setup:

I'm thinking of coming up out of the ground, bending (because I have to) to get past the pipe directly above - and then once I bend, I can go straight up to bellow level where I can loop over to the pump.
Is there any problem going to belly level (head?)?
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If there is a section that you could do naturally as part of the valve replacement to give yourself some more room so it's easier to fix, I'd do that. But I wouldn't raise it up and fix what is not broken. I agree the design there isn't great. But other than the leak it apparently works. To redo the whole thing because you don't like the way it looks, IMO is nuts. As for raising everything up to 4 ft for convenience, there are some things you want to watch out for. If you take the suction line up instead of having it go downhill to the pool, the pump may become difficult or impossible to prime.
And I don't know about you, but I seldom need to fiddle with the valves on the pipes, mainly during winterization. The valve I do use the most is the valve on the filter that selects backwashing. But that mates to the bottom of the filter tank and I'm not even sure you cold move it if you want. And where it is doesn't seem a problem to use at all.
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