Poison ivy

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Can you treat heavy duty welders gloves to kill poison ivy residue or should you just throw them out when the work to clear it is finished? Welders gloves might be overkill but I just want to know if I can reuse them. Thank you.
Cheryl
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I have Poison Ivy growing up the sides of my house. It has run up to the second floor and is now chasing the eaves. It seems like its doubling in volume in a few days. Does anyone have any tips on getting rid of this short of burning the house down. I've called a bunch of lanscapers and the only one who would give me a price wants nearly $1000. to take it down. The must be something similar to paraquat that I can spray on it. Anyone know the name of the chemicals I should be looking for? I've sprayed it with Round-up from home depot and it just wilted it a little. In a few days you couldn't even tell. This is my mission for this weekend. Advice will be appriciated and snide remarks or wise cracks will, of course, be tolerated. (After all, this is usenet.)
Thanks in advance for serious replies.
Kathy
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I haven't had any trouble killing poison ivy with a poison ivy-specific killer. It needs to be made for "brushy" (woody) plants.
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One thing you can do is (carefully and wearing gloves and long sleeves) is clip the stems at the bottom and the parts above will die.
Once that is done, the sprays may work better on the roots as there is less of a network of leaves to gather nourishment.
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Are you positive this is poison ivy? Could it be Virginia Creeper? Try alt.landscape.architecture with a link to an image. Try your local extension agent.
Even if it is not poison ivy, vines can cause damage to buildings. TB
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This is not a "weekend mission" but a long-term plan. An established poison ivy plant will take 2 or 3 applications of RoundUp to take effect. Apply the RoundUp to ALL the green leaves. Wait two weeks and apply again. In two more weeks spray again if you see any green leaves. The dead vine will remain "potent" with the oil for a year.
wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net says... :) couldn't even tell. This is my mission for this :) weekend. Advice will be appriciated and snide :) remarks or wise cracks will, of course, be :) tolerated. (After all, this is usenet.) :) :) Thanks in advance for serious replies. :) :) Snip the main vine near the ground, then apply to the fresh cut the round up or "brush killer" leave it be for a few weeks till the leaves die and drop, then with gloves remove the vine from the structure.
--
Lar

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Also make sure the Roundup you use is strong enough. I'd go with a 10% solution to deal with poison ivy. Get the concentrate and apply it with a tank sprayer, not the weak pre-mixed stuff, which is around 1% and fine for general weeds. Also, you can get an additive that can be used with any spray that make it stick to the leaves better. This is important with poison ivy because the leaves are slick and oily, so a lot of the spray tends to run off. That's one of the reasons you need the Roundup to be strong. There are also other herbicides that are labeled as brush killer that are effective as well.
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net says... :) Also, you can get an additive that can :) be used with any spray that make it stick to the leaves better. This :) is important with poison ivy because the leaves are slick and oily, :) 2 drops of liquid dish soap per gallon mixture will also work
--
Lar

to email....get rid of the BUGS
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Garlon.
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Suggest spray with liquefied Beef Jerky--dilute sufficiently and you have a marketable commodity.....

It's definately nasty shit, Kath.
Perhaps ( carefully ) beat it with a baseball bat first to injure the plant tissue. Then spray....the injured tissue will likely intake any available moisture in humidity from the available air rather than to dessicate..
Well to note probly additional urushiol is rapidly exuded in order to help protect the plant after any tissue injury.....
If its only a few plants, suggest snip at the base--everything above should die, this due to the subsequent inability to uptake water into the above plant tissue.
Brush round-up at full strength on the cambium layer of any the root bases that are left in the soil.
Treat any plant material removed as being highly hazardous......suggest dispose onsite via deep burial....else bag and send to an approved landfill ( clearly mark the bags )
--
SVL




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Anyone able to interpet what this sentence means??
------------------------------------
Well to note probly additional urushiol is rapidly exuded in order to help protect the plant after any tissue injury.....
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Yes, but then again, I'm from the South. ;-)
RJ

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She/he should pay attention to the fact that the plant (poison ivy) will give off a lot of urushiol (what makes it poison) when the vines or leaves are damaged in order to protect itself. Sort of like the white or red blood cells (can never recall which it is) in our bodies fight an injury, scrape, cut, etc.
Does that help?
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Exactly...not sure this is in fact the case but IMO it does seem pretty likely.
Poison oak, poison ivy, and poison sumac are all members of the genus toxicohendron, and urishiol is the toxin common to all three of these plants that is responsible for allergic dermatitus reaction in humans.
While it doesn't seem to bother me one bit, my wife is clinically hypersensitive to the toxin and so it has been the subject of some fairly in-depth study on my part.
I've been thinking about getting several goats, as we have about 3 acres of fairly steep hillside that is more or less covered with poison oak.
One other thing.....DO NOT BURN IT !!!...deaths from inhalation of the smoke do indeed occur on a fairly regular basis.
--
SVL



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PrecisionMachinisT wrote:

Don't forget cashews - they are a first cousin to poison ivy. For people who are hypersensitive to poison ivy (me included), eating more than a small amount of cashew nuts causes a pretty bad internal reaction.

Bob S.
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That's odd - I'm very allergic to poison ivy, and I don't have the slightest reaction to cashews.
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WOW! I thought is was just me.
I can eat a few cashews, but more than a small handful make me sick as a dog.
Thanks

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Kathy wrote:

purpose. They usually have a directed spray so you can pinpoint where it gets applied. That's important because a spray mist would takeout many of your desirable plants nearby.
Do not snip the plant near the ground until it is dead. You want the killer to be transported to the roots.
Expect to apply at least 3 times, a week apart. Check the label.
When the poison ivy is dead, you can carefully remove the plants and any roots you can early pull up. But it may take until Fall for this. Wear cheap clothes and gloves and dispose (not burn) every when you're finished. We used to bathe in Fells Naptha soap afterwards. (I always suspected that was an early version of an acid peal!).
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