Pocket door

[daler]

I'm adding a basement bathroom and am working with limited space.

So limited, in fact, that the floor joist over the doorway is only 77", and that's before any framing.

Because of that, I've ruled out a conventional bathroom door, as everyone in the family (other than grandkids) would have to duck once the header and trim were in place.

So, I'm considering a pocket door. But again...space is a consideration. Home Depot has a pre-built pocket door frame that would save me a lot of time and energy (and money - it's cheap), but it's designed for an 80" high doorway, which would require my slicing 3" off the top of the frame - and I'll have to either custom order a 77" high door or cut a typical 80" door to fit.

All that having been said, my concern is that it looks like a hell of a job to install even without the custom fitting, and that the wheel mechanism would be vulnerable over the years to wear, basement moisture, etc.

So, my question is: has anyone installed a "custom-fit" pocket door, and do you have to be Bob Vila to pull it off? Is it worth the hassle? Or should I go with bi-fold doors (the only other option)?

[dadiOH]

Pocket doors - as most exist today - are a PITA. I'd go with the folding. The 77" meets code?

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[daler]

No code (other than electrical & septic) where I'm at.

You had problems with a pocket door installation?

[calhoun]

I don't understand, the ceiling height is only 77"? Seems you would be almost ducking just walking around. With a pocket door you still need some framing, and because of the track on the top, a Pocket door will require even more ducking. You are going to have to cut down any door you get a regular swinging door will give the most headroom.

[dadiOH]

No, not really but the pockets that most builders use - and which are generally available at home improvement stores - are less than great...poorly constructed and joined...flimsy...weak.

A standard 2x4 stud wall with a pocket winds up pretty flimsy too.

*Much* better would be two 2x4 walls with a pocket between but you then have a really thick wall. There are also well made pockets available but they have to be hunted out.

Besides the pocket itself is the track and hardware. Again, there is good stuff but ya gotta hunt for it. Worthwhile because replacing a track is a major undertaking. Even replacing a hanger is a real PITA. I have a door now with a broken front hanger...gotta take off all the trim to get the door out to replace same. As I said, a PITA.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[Goedjn]

All the pocket doors I've looked at run on overhead rails, which means the assembly takes up *MORE* overhead space than a regular door, because you have to hide the track. Just case the sides of the doorway normally, and leave out the header. Build up the joist flush with the walls on either side, so you can add trim (bottom edge flush with the bottom of the joist) and fill all the cracks and seams that would normally be covered by the casing with wood-filler, and paint.

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