plumbing parts

[Bob]

I am trying to find a 4'' drain cap for my sewage line but I can't find any good plumbing supply places on line. Does anyone know of any?

Thanks

[Speedy Jim]

A cap goes over the end of a pipe. If plastic, you can get a glue-on cap. Or a rubber cap with stainless band.

One place:

[Bob]

Thank you Speedy Jim.

Heres my problem.

There use to be a 4in screw in cap on my sewer line in my basement. One time it rained like crazy and the water backed out. It turns out the pipes threads are stipped so the cap was just sitting on top. When the water backed up it just lifted off and my basement filled quickly.

So I purchased the below item from home depot.

This at it tightest setting does not seal the drain. Its like the very top of it fits over the drain hole but the rubber in the middle does not expand enough to grasp the pipe. I was wondering what else I could try. May be the homedepot version is a piece of poo and another brand might work better? The drain is metal and under the basement floor. Only the part with the threads is showing above ground.

I was going to try this...

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks again.

[No]

Bob - Those plugs are not the correct long term solution.

So, this is a basement floor cleanout in cast iron. The plug was originally cast iron or bronze and may have been tapered. try a plumbing supply house and ask them. You may need a new threaded section if you cant find the cap. See if anything here looks familiar.

[Sacramento Dave]

the pipe to change the clean out T? What is the screw in cap made of? Screw in would be a plug.

[Duane Bozarth]

Call a plumber?

I still can't tell for sure, but it sounds like you're talking about a drain cleanout access?

If the threads have been destroyed on the fitting and you don't want to replace it at present, one possible makeshift solution would be to fit a

4" to 3" reducer into the present opening, using an epoxy for sealant to account for the failed threads. Then plug the 3" opening. Still have access for cleanout, albeit somewhat restricted, and should be able to get it to hold water.

[Bob]

I think its iron and I don't have access to the full T most of it is under the concrete floor. It could be the threads are just rusty and corroded. I am going to try and clean them out with a wire brush. If that does not work I don't know what I am going to do.

[Bob]

ouch... Unless you know someone, it's for a business or they do a lot of work for you they are impossible to get to come out. Don't return phone calls, etc... Same with electricians. At least in my experience.

It is a drain cleanout access. I thought there would be something similar to the test plug that would allow me to seal it enough so it would not back up and I would be able to open it if I ever needed to.

Thanks for the help.

[PipeDown]

The 1-800 plumber type outfits will come out since they are dispatched from a central location to many "technicians". Some offer 1 hour response for initial quotes (or 24 hour resopnse) after that they will work with you to schedule the repair.

Getting an independent plumber to come out and quote on a smallish job is tough if he already has plenty of work to go around. Just find a bigger company

Wire brush the threads but they may need to be re-tapped. The tool will cost about the same as a plumber visit at that point. I have also used an awl or sharpened screwdriver to scrape out the threads individually (manually retap the threads)

The original post seems to be missing so I may be missing the point