plumbing advice needed

Howdy,
I recently installed a shower down in my basement. Before putting the drywall up, I checked all the plumbing joints by leaving the lines pressurized for a day and everything seemed fine.
The *one* thing I didn't check was the threaded connection between the 10" metal shower stand that protrudes from the wall (the curved metal piece that the shower head attaches to), and the supply line. I did put teflon tape on that connection, but figured it would never have any water in it, except when the shower was on, so there was nothing to really worry about.
Of course, I just discover that it leaks when the shower is on max. There is enough pressure in the line (even though water is coming out of the shower head) to cause some water drops to bead up on the threaded connection.
I can't unscrew the 10" metal shower stand without cutting a hole in the drywall - and then of course I'd need to fix that too. However, I can get my fingers on the threaded pipe joint without ripping any drywall.
I'm thinking of just applying a bunch of caulk around the joint and calling that a fix. My thought is that the only time this could possibly leak is when the shower is on, and since the shower is in the basement, I don't expect it will be used more then a few times a year (if we have a guest sleeping in the basement - which doesn't happen much). My last house had a shower in the basement, and it was used maybe a half dozen times in the three years we lived there.
Any thoughts on this? I'm just not sure its worth going to a lot of trouble to fix a leak that can't produce more then a handful of drops/year.
Thanks.
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got a plumbing question for the experts,
currently, this is the plumbing i have in upstairs bathroom:
| | \________________|__________________ up for toilet vent to attic to roof drain down
i would like to move the drain for toilet (move the toilet) more to the left (on the schematics) this invoves bringing the horizontal drain up by about 8" to cross a structural beam (the part after the vent). Is is acceptable to do this for toilet drain? It would be 2-45 elbows back to back (i don't see problem with this, as long as the overall slope is maintained). If this is done, does the vent have to be relocated - ie would it have to come up from the new elevated section , or can it remain as it is? the new plumbing would look like this
| \___ \______|_________
or like this: | \___| \_______________
Thanks. m.
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Martin wrote:

I would rather see the vent moved but, as a practical matter it may not make much difference.
Jim
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Should be no problem, I did that in the original plumbing in my house many years ago and have had no problem.
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left
about
don't
There is a code requirement that the main stack (vent for toilet) must be within 3 feet (I think) of the toliet flange.
As long as the overall path to the vent is up I don't think you will have any problems. I have seen a lot of strange things work just fine.
Colbyt
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On 9/10/2005 8:54 PM or thereabouts, erico appears, somewhat unbelievably, to have opined:

Why can't you use a pipe wrench to remove it? Normally this can be done without removing anything else.
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Technically, I believe I can remove it. However, my concern is that since I can't physically grab the union (not enough room unless I cut drywall), there will be alot of stress on the pipe within the wall when I twist the shower stand off.
Perhaps that's not an issue?
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since
Did you not mount the "union" to a brace between the studs ? usually you use a cast fitting with 2 screw holes.
but can you get to it from behind, or is this against the basement wall ?
AMUN
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I braced it enough so that someone playing with the showerhead couldn't easily move the pipe - but the bracing wasn't intended to prevent twisting. Honestly, it never occurred to me that I might have to remove this thing.
Anyway - I went for broke and took off the metal shower stand. Nothing inside the wall seemed to break, even though I had to twist quite hard. After applying a lot more teflon and remounting it - the damn thing still leaks, only not as much. =)
I think I'm going to give the caulk a shot. Heck - the stuff only has to hold up to a five minute shower a few times a year.
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I just removed a relative new sheet of vinyl flooring from my bathroom that was installed by a contractor. Black mold, mot much but it will be if its not addressed, was growing between the glue and the vinyl. Couldn't find any evidence of dry rot or water damage, perhaps from a few drops once a week just like your shower.
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?
twisting.
It's your house, but I wouldn't tolerate ANY leaking in a wall.
check all threads for obvious damage or faults. (pipe cracks/holes)
Throw out the teflon tape, and coat the threads with pipe dope, (plumbers joint compound) or just a heavy grease.
THEN screw it in ,and you won't have ANY leak.
AMUN
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A plumber I worked with swore by dope AND teflon.
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(plumbers
Swore by? or Swore at ?
Two completely different things. <g>
AMUN
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A plumber I was watching (commercial work) swore by dope, then teflon, then more dope. I guess he hated call-backs for leaking pipes :)
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wall
thing.
still
1: Unscrew the shower head 2: unscrew the shower head mounting pipe. You might have to make a small cut around it with a key whole saw. 3: put a small amount of pipe dope on the threads, then put 5 to 7 wraps of Teflon tape clockwise on threads, then put pipe dope on again. 4: Screw the pipe back in, don't over tighten just good and snug. If you over tighten you run a risk of cracking the drop-eared-90ty 9 (The cast piece with to mounting holes.) A pipe is tapered so your putting a wedge in lot of pressure. 5: Run the water for a few minutes to clean out crap in line. 6: put the shower head back on. When you feel every thing is good caulk around the hole. Anyway that's what I would do, but I'm just a plumber.
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yea just slap some caulk on and forget about it. no sense in fixing it the right way. just leave it half assed for the next guy to fix correctly. BTW did you own my house before me?

?
twisting.
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greetings are you sure it isnt the sweat joint on the female to copper adapter?
try teflon taping it but this time also use the grey pro pipe dope sold in most places, over the tape.
you really dont want any dripping taking place, ie: ants, ect
its unusual that that connection would leak when its tefloned unless there is another issue going on, such as a bad sweat joint that appears to be coming from the 1/2 inch female...
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