Please reply if you have had problems with Photocell E127584.

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Please reply if you have had problems with Photocell E127584.
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Sorry, I only had problems with Photocells E127583 and E127585.
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On Feb 2, 4:50 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I've had to replace everyone of mine. I hate them.
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replying to Jeff McNaught , Harry wrote:

where do you find the replacement for E127584
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replying to dennisgauge , Andy Goodday wrote:

Yes, I had a problem with E127584. It was in an outdoor light fixture installed by pro electrician. Lamp had GU24 socket base. Bulb was MaxLite GU24 SpiralMax, a flourescent bulb that draws only 13 Watts but produces lumens equivalent to 60 Watt incandescent.
The E127584 shorted out inside it's plactic housing, leaving a 1/2 inch whole. I don't know when it shorted, but it blackened the siding and obviously had the potential for burning down my house.
Based on the posts on the internet, I am not the only one who has encountered this problem. This photocell is a piece of dangerous crap and should be removed from your light fixtures. I snipped it out and wired the fixture without the photocell. I intend to do the same with the other 2 fixtures that have the same photocell.
I also intend to write to RU, the manufacturer, and CCthe lamp manufacturer that was supplied by them.
Andy Goodday.
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replying to Andy Goodday, Chuck wrote:

Same problem in an outdoor light fixture installed by our builder. Fixture stopped working. Black on siding where E127584 was. Also bulge on unit where it bubbled through. My brother and I rewired it without the part. This part is a danger.
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replying to dennisgauge , Harry Callahan 13 wrote:

after 1 year and 1 month (no longer under warranty) - now I am stuck with expensive lights that don't work
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replying to dennisgauge , RetiredinMiami wrote:

I have 4-E127584 photo cells go bad after 2 years. I purchased what I thought was a replacement, Keystone: KTPS-45-1, but they did not work. I live in Miami and have 12 outdoor lights with solar photocells. I have resorted to a wall timer switch. Sad!
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i had a photocell on my pole light. perodically it would burn out for no ap parent reason.
till one day it was just getting dark and i witenesed its death.......
the pole lighht turned on. the incandescent bulb burned out in one of those brilliant sun bright displays.
i went and got another bulb but it didnt light
so i went and got a new pole light sensor from inventory. they were hard to find so i bought several at a time.....
changed the light sensor and all was well.
conclusion..... the brilliant light was from high current that wiped out t he sensor. about this time CFLs came out. that light sensor must be over 10 / 15 years old......... the plastic sensor window has discolored turned m ilky white. i am going to restore my vans headlights, i will try a bit on t he sensor
if the OP is using incandescent bulbs you might try a LED bulb.
longer life may be your reward.
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LED and CFL bulbs won't work in my mercury vapor lamp. After 15 years, I noticed that the light was coming on when it got a little overcast. Replacing the photocell with an exact replacement returned it to normal operation.
About the same time, a photocell did the same thing on another lamp. I had added a small photocell to a lamp that used CFL bulbs. Even though they use less power, there is still some heat involved with CFL and LED bulbs. I believe it is this heat that makes the photocells go bad, and use of incandescent bulbs would only accelerate the process.
For that lamp, I made a bigger hole and mounted an external photocell. When/if the mercury vapor lamp's photocell goes bad again, I will use the external replacement on it too. Its mounting hole happens to be the right size for the external photocell.
<http://www.lowes.com/pd_7955-30209-ALR-TL-115-BP-LOWES_1z0v12l__?product Id438410&pl=1> Fred
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On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 12:30:12 PM UTC-4, Fred McKenzie wrote:

i would replace your existing fixture with ab LED one, they use almost no power and are pretty bright
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wrote:

Depending on the bulb type, you can convert your existing fixture to LED. That's what I did for a metal halide flag pole light. I just removed the old ballast completely and wired incoming power to the bulb socket and bought an LED bulb. The old metal halides lasted from 18 to 24 months and were expensive to replace. The LED bulb only was $10 and hasn't failed yet. It is not quite as bright, but it is bright enough. No one even noticed I made the change (11 owners at a condo association). I used a cool white bulb so even the color temp is similar.
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Pat-
My mercury vapor security light has been in continuous use since it was installed in 2000. The first bulb lasted less than a year. Its replacement is still going strong. The photocell replacement was the only other repair needed.
Converting it to LED seems like a good idea considering savings in electricity, but I have two concerns:
1. I have not had an LED bulb failure in the short time they have been in use. Although individual LED elements may last a long time, the associated electronics may not. My experience with CFL bulbs is that on average, their electronics fail long before the fluorescent tube wears out. Time will tell.
2. Many of my LED bulbs generate radio interference. I have had to test each to select ones that do not. The security light is near my Ham Radio antennas. It uses a 100 Watt mercury vapor lamp. I have not found a 100 Watt equivalent LED bulb that does not interfere.
Fred
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replying to dennisgauge , John wrote:

Yes I have a problem with photocell E127584 on my outdoor lamp fixture.
What is a replacement for this one?
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On Thursday, February 2, 2012 2:40:56 PM UTC-5, Molly Brown wrote:

If you're still looking, I have a replacement available for $4.50. My company's # is 877-664-5483 Ext. 2230. We are Contractor Lighting & Supply, and my name is Josh. I've sold several of these to replace the E127584, specifically.
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On Mar 15, 1:10 pm, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

ly, and my name is Josh.  I've sold several of these to replace the E1275 84, specifically.
I used to have troubles with my photo cell on my pole light.....
when I upgraded to CFLs the photo cell problem went away:)
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replying to bob haller , gijoe wrote:

how would i go about ordering two of the replacements from you ?
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I had endless troubles with my photo cells, replacing them 2 to 3 times a year.
photo cells dim the light at on and off. this diming with certain fluroscents can take out the photo cell.
and also can be ruined when a incandescent bulb fails going brilliant at end of life. that flash bulb look.
i solved both problems by upgrading to dimable CFLs and am planning to upgrade to dimable Led.
i had planned to install a relay to power the offending fixture, one day i happened to see the flash and found the sensor had failed....
so I tried CFL, but one day saw the bulb flickering dim very brite, and changed the bulb but again found the sensor had failed.
so i went with dimable cfls and havent had a problem since, that must be over 10 years ago...
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replying to Molly Brown , Bev wrote:

Yes, obviously got too hot, burned through a wire and sensor has a bulge
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On Thursday, February 2, 2012 2:40:56 PM UTC-5, Molly Brown wrote:

have the photocell power a relay. so the photocell only carries very low power..
and use CFLs or LED bulbs. Sometimes incandescents burning out create high power surges when the bulb goes white hot for a moment.
Those damage photocell controls....
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