Plastic electrical boxes.

I know that all pros hate those plastic electrical boxes, but I' have been using them anyway. Having put up drywall, I have just for the first time realized that the notches that mark how far out the new- work box should stick out are 3/8". What gives? Isn't 1/2" drywal standard? Now all of my boxes are 1/8" too deep.

Reply to
Aaron Fude
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better too deep than too shallow. The ears on the outlets will lay on the sheetrock and set the proper depth.

s

Reply to
Steve Barker

nothing personal to the original poster, but why would anyone use plastic boxes????? I know the obvious answer is cost, but seriously.......a few pennies for the quality and strength of steel?????

Reply to
news

ease of use, don't have to fuptz around grounding them, cheaper, uh, uh , uh. I don't see a down side myself.

s

Reply to
Steve Barker

Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

Reply to
Aaron Fude

I like the plastic old work boxes with the flags, they seem to work better than steel boxes with madison hangers. I've seen metal old work boxes (in use by contractors) but can't find 'em in my local big boxes.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

  1. Cost -- difference is about a dollar and a half per box, not "a few pennies".
  2. Ease of installation: a) boxes don't have to be grounded b) cables don't have to be clamped to box, as long as they're secured to framing within (IIRC) 6" of the box c) because cables don't have to be clamped to box, there's no deduction from the rated cubic capacity of the box for cable clamps d) light weight means it's easier to lug a full carton of boxes
Reply to
Doug Miller

Here in Canada, plastic boxes still have a grounding strap that you have to attach the ground wire to. No savings in time nor trouble. I find that the screws for switches and receptacles strip out of the plastic quite easily if the screw is removed for work a couple of times.

Reply to
EXT

Personally I love plastic boxes. I only use them for single gang purposes and only 22 cu. inch, I prefer steel for multiple gang for the rigidity, but most of all because the largest single gang plastic boxes have lots of room in them

Reply to
RBM

Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom done correctly.

-- Tom Horne

Reply to
Tom Horne

Plastic boxes are very useful in any environment were corrosion will be a problem. They are the box of choice in buildings that house large animals. I prefer them when wiring the outside walls of a basement. They have there uses much like any other material. The only time I get vexed by there use is when they are mixed in with metal raceway or metal covered cable because the bonding is seldom done correctly.

-- Tom Horne

Reply to
Tom Horne

Not that I plan to do this, but how *would* one properly bond BX or pipe to a plastic box? you got me curious...

nate

Tom Horne wrote:

Reply to
Nate Nagel

*It takes a little practice to bring out the box a little extra before nailing to get it just right. I sometimes carry a small piece of drywall with me and hold it up against the stud while nailing the box. For kitchens and bathrooms I use the adjustable boxes because I rarely know what the final finish depth will be.

Unfortunately the plastic boxes are bigger than the metal and as a result there is not a lot of drywall for the ears to rest on. A common electrician's trick is to wrap a piece of wire around the screw behind the ears to make up the gap difference. Sometimes I use 6/32 nuts for the boxes that are set back a lot more.

Reply to
John Grabowski

you must be using some substandard brand plastic boxes. i've never stripped one out and i always use the dewalt drill to drive the screws in and out. Also, why do you ground plastic?

s

Reply to
Steve Barker

just dont' go so tight. HELL they're not going anywhere...

s

Well, I understand your point, but I find that it is impossible to tighten the outlets in there without crushing the drywall or bending the ears. Your should I leave them a little loose and let the faceplate tighten everything?

Many thanks in advance,

Aaron

Reply to
Steve Barker

don't need to.

s

Reply to
Steve Barker

You wouldn't (shouldn't) do it with the standard .35 cent box. You'd need special non metallic boxes made for the purpose

Reply to
RBM

OH.

Reply to
Steve Barker

The 3/8" marks are intended for 3/8" wall coverings. Ideally, the boxes should be flush with the wall. If yours is 1/8" short, that's okay. I made a plywood jig that locates the box at the proper depth and height. The jig rests on the floor and against a stud--removes guesswork and no measuring.

Reply to
Phisherman

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