Plan for Basement Electrical Outlets - Feedback Please

[kevharper]

I'd apprecaite some feedback on my plan for wiring electrical outlets in my basement (which I'm in the process of finishing)...

I'm finishing about 2/3 of my basement with the remaining 1/3 being a dedicated storage area. The perimeter of the finished area is about

180 feet and I'm planning on having about 20 recepticals. I will only be using a fraction of the recepticals at any given time but I just want to make sure I always have one in the spot I need it, so I'm throwing in extra ones.

I plan on using 12-2 copper wire with a 20A breaker & 20A rated outlets. At first I was considering using 14-2 with a 15A breaker but I'm concerned about voltage drop over my relatively long 180foot run. The extra cost and hassle of installing the 12-2 is something I don't have any issues with so I decided to go that route. I'll be routing the 12-2 through traditional wood frame 2x4 walls I have setup against my poured concrete basement walls. I have already drilled 3/4 inch holes in the studs.

I'm installing the outlets so that they are 18inches above the basement floor and spaced less that 12feet apart (no more than 6feet from a doorway). The routing of the wiring through the wall is at least

12inches above the outlets.

Any feedback on my plan? Anything I should look out for or consider? Anything I should watch out for using 12-2 with a 20A breaker?

Thanks, Kevin

[scott21230]

I know GFCI's aren't required for finished basements, but my personal preference is for them anywhere in a basement, even the finished part (in my case it's one GFCI with the rest after it). I believe you are correct in that you need to use the heavier gauge wire for that length fo a run.

[PipeDown]

Basements can be dark. Run a seperate branch for lighting and receptacles, so if you trip a breaker running a dehumidifier and a skill saw at the same time, you are not fumbling in the dark. 12-2 is recommended for any receptacles, #14 should be reserved for lighting IMO. You don't need to pay extra for 20A receptacles, standard 15A plugs are fine (same for switches) unless you are dedicating one to a 20A load like an air conditioner.

While you have the walls open, you have a chance to add ventilation for radon if that is an issue

[James "Cubby" Culbertson]

You may want to check code but I don't think you can put 20 receptacles on one circuit regardless of how many you don't plan to use. I know my local code here says no more than 10 "devices" on a single circuit (a receptacle being a single device), regardless of what amperage it's rated for (15 or

20). I'm no code expert but thought I'd mention this as something for you to research! Cheers, cc

[Bob]

I'd certainly use more than one line/breaker for that many recepticals.

Every receptical on my main floor is on one breaker. I can't run the microwave and vacuum cleaner at the same time. That's one future project.

Bob

[kevharper]

Thanks for your feedback guys. I forgot to mention that the lighting will be on a sepearate 15A circuit (the circuit is already there si I will just use it as is with a couple more lights added to it.

CC- I will check into the number of outlets, but research I have done thus far has not indicated any limit except for in non-residential (commercial) applications.

I'll probably stick with the 20A outlets just incase. I can't imagine using anything in my basement that will draw that much but the price for the capability isn't that great.

scott21- With regard to the GFCI... are you recommending that I place one GFCI at the front of my cable run with the rest being conventional outlets?

Bob- I feel your pain with your breaker problem! My microwave is somehow on the same circuit as my kitchen & dining room lights as well as my outdoor landscape lighting. Every once in a while If I have them all on, the microwave will cause the breaker to kick. I need to check if a

15A circuit was used...the run is pretty long so maybe the current draw is higher because of the current drop as well. One of these days I'm going to run a dedicated line for that microwave.

In my basement, I don't see anything more than a TV or stereo, computer, & refridgerator going at the same time so I'm pretty sure I'll be safe with the 20A circuit (especially with the lights on their own circuit).

Any and all feedback is appreciated!

Thanks, Kevin

[RBM]

You are correct about the number of outlets on a circuit. In residential wiring you need a 15 amp circuit for each 600 square feet . In commercial wiring it's 1.5 amps per outlet

[PipeDown]

If you use 12-3 wire and a double breaker instead, you can easily wire each of those 20 receptacles so that the top plug is one branch and the bottom is another branch. Additional cost and labor is trivial.

You may not see much more than a TV, stereo and a few lights down there but a future owner might see a workshop or an excercise room with many heavy loads (tredmill, tanning lamp, dehumidifier, fans, space heater) .

[hallerb]

yeah DONT cheap out add a extra breaker!!

If your breaker cabinet is full you can get 1/2 width breakers to increase the number.

you also want to consider ethernet, phone, satellite or cable to runs.

i would protect hopefully the 2 20 amp outlet runs each with a GFCI or GFCI breaker. home inspectors here make the lkack of them in a basement a big issue... came up selling a home recently.......

[kevharper]

Thanks a lot for the double breaker & 12-3 wire suggestion. I think I will definitely go that route as I have room in my box for it!! Time to take out my book and read up on that.

I greatly appreciate everybody's feedback!

kevin

[Bob Vaughan]

Better yet, alternate phases between boxes, but don't split the outlets within the box unless you decide to add some switched outlets, in which case you could split an outlet for the switch leg. If you do add switched outlets, do it as part of a quad box, so that there are at least two unswitched outlets in the box.

If you know you are going to have a fridge/freezer, add a dedicated 20a circuit for it.

one less obvious point, add an outlet somewhere near the door where you would never consider putting any furniture (and thus covering the outlet) for the vaccum cleaner. could be on a narrow wall, or in the box with the switches.

I would figure on at least 4 circuits.. 2 staggered along the wall,

1 for the fridge, and 1 for lighting.

[Jim Nugent]

Why not take your final plans to show the electrical inspector when you get your permit (you ARE getting a permit, right???). They can point out things you missed or make suggestions. It's better than having him/her point out poblems after the job's done.

"You have to have an outlet with six feet of a door."

"That's a closet. The sump pump is in there."

"You have to have an outlet with six feet of a door."

"Yes, sir." ("Three bags full, sir...")

The outlet's there today. Thanks to Wiremold. :)

[John Grabowski]

I concur that you should have more than one receptacle circuit. I would also put the refrigerator on its own circuit. Here in New Jersey it is required to have at least one GFI receptacle in the unfinished space and it is also a requirement to have a three way switch at the top and bottom of the basement stairs for the lights near and over the stairs. We are also required to have a ceiling mounted interconnected smoke detector within three feet of the bottom step of the basement stairs. You should also have a GFI receptacle near the furnace/air conditioning/water heater space for servicing purposes.

You might also want to install cable TV and phone jacks in a few places.

John Grabowski

[Bob]

Be aware that having both phases in one box means there is a 240 volt shock hazard when working in that box. I would choose to not mix phases.

Running 2-4 wires from the breaker box is really easy at this point. Adding them later is not. Don't scrimp on wire when it's so easy to add more circuits. When you use a portable heater, buy a treadmill or power saw , etc. you might be glad.

Bob

[Steve Barker LT]

I'd run 12-3 and put every other outlet on a circuit. Two circuits, and you'll never have a problem. Use a 20A double pole breaker. Be sure to pigtail out when you land the outlets.

[Jim McLaughlin]

No more than 10 plug ins on circuit. Plug ins no further than 6 feet apart.

You need more plug ins (180 lineal feet divided by 6' = nominal 30 plug ins.)

[RBM]

You are misinterpreting two separate rules

[kevharper]

What do you mean when you say: "Be sure to pigtail out when you land the outlets." ?

I'm looking at a wiring diagram in my DIY book and I think I see what you're talking about. But, what's the purpose of the pigtails? They don't look like they perform any function..

[hallerb]

a 10 receptable per breaker is good common sense rule.

espically if you ever lived in a home like mine where way too many outlets were on the same circuit.

hey turn the fan and blender off so i can turn on the floodlight to put out the garbage:(

I have upgraded endlessely to fix such issues....

[Mark Lloyd]

That's important. When I want to plug something in temporarily (like the vacuum cleaner), I'd like an outlet that isn't HIDDEN. Maybe even one at the height used for switches (easier to reach).