Pet stains on wood floors


5/8" red oak, stained with dog pee.
Oxacylic acid? Bleach?
Can I stain with spots and blend it in, or will it make the dog pee just that much darker?
Sanding sealer? Never used it. Sounds like a good idea. Is it?
And for gaps I've heard taking sawdust, mixing with wood glue, putty knife into gaps. Then sand. Anyone ever try this?
Not a big area, just using my small belt sander (alright, got the Mrs. doing that) and wondering what to do next....
Signed,
Mr. Curious
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Don't let the dog in the house.
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slow day, Mike?
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Hey, it's the best advice you're going to get whether you realize it now or not.
Otherwise you'll be back asking how to get dog diarrhea out of your couch/carpet or how to get rid of the dog smell despite replacing 95% of your home's interior.
To put the question in another light, what would you say to a person who is trying to fix their nice wood floors after getting weld spatter all over them? Would you pretend that there's nothing wrong with the big picture?
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On 3/26/2010 7:20 PM, mike wrote:

We're both right. The part unsaid was that all *puppies* go through a potty training period, and all *puppy owners*, or at least most of them, keep the puppies indoors.
Cheers.
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"ng_reader" wrote

How old are the stains? That makes a big difference.

Probably will never get a good match that way. You may be able to come close (IE: not perfect but less of an eyesore)

Resanding and refinishing will only work if the stains arent very deep and you go a fairly dark color.

Nope. Doesnt work.

Hehehe if she's already sanded it, your choices are somewhat limited.
A few questions then I'll come up with best guess since I can't actually see it (if you can get a picture online it will help)
1) How old is the stain? Is there any odor left?
2) How big is the stain?
3) What color is the stain in relation to the rest of the wood?
4) Estimated age of the floor and can you find matching replacement pieces?
5) How important based on location is 'perfect coverage'?
Also, if you can tell anything at all on how deep the stain seems to be, that helps. I saw your other message and yes, puppy training with paper can cause this. Folks just don't realize the floor is getting damaged. If a recent puppy issue, and not too deep, it's fairly fixable but still not totally fun.
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On 3/27/2010 10:57 AM, cshenk wrote:

The pee stains are about 2 years old now. the dog, about 2.5. Odor? Not that I smell.

I never wanted the dog in the first place. If and when you get kids, sometimes the kids win and you don't. In fact, in our household, I'd put that ration at 80:20. To answer your question, about 25% of the floor is affected.
A little background might help. The floor, 50 years old, was originally stapled with vinyl tiles shortly after construction. So, besides the pee stains I have metal oxide stains. Sorry for not mentioning that.
But where the dog went pee the floor has a certain texture to it, like where the pee combined with the polyurethane (educated guess) and produced a rougher, now obviously stained, surface. It is unsightly and typically covered by a long wool rug.
I took the rug to a laundromat ($5.50 washer, stunk after I removed it, too) and realized that "now" would be a good time to refinish that floor.

Black. Red Oak is kind of dark. Pee stains are large black circles from 7" diameter to 12" diameter. Oh, that urine made the surface rougher, did I mention that? Had to be some kind of chemical reaction.

Actually when I moved in about 9 years ago Home Depot stocked the 3/8" red oak unfinished wood. I thought that was odd. Same width, too. Odder yet. This stuff is just top nailed in, not tongue and groove, so replacing could be an option, however....

Not very. The runner is going to back down on top of whatever we create.

I'm finished removing the surface to the bare wood and the stains are clearly visible. 3/8" inch is pretty thin. It might penetrate down to 50% depth, and, that is something that I'm not going to mess with.
+++++++++
I've read the ammonia and then hydrogen peroxide setup. I think that's my direction. I'm not going to remove the damaged pieces, it would be way too much work.
I'll re-read the min-wax brochure, and continue to read about bleaching wood. Right now I'm just trying to get to bare wood and am about 1/2 way done. Using a little belt sander isn't so bad. A lot of saw dust but manageable, for the most part.
Thanks for your response.
Mike, please join PETA. They need good people like you.
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"ng_reader" wrote

Ok, no sub-floor issues. Workable then without any sort of major 'issues' needed.

Hehe ok, but I see below coverable due to location.
To fix 25% 'correctly', you have to resand below it and with thin wood like you have and age of stain, it wont work.
You *may* get away with light sanding of the retextured areas and the rest then restain. This will look 'better' but not ever perfect.

It's actually odd to see wood that thin in houses that old but happens.

Yup, chemical over time is best guess.

The tounge-n-groove stuff came out later.

Ok, sand, and try your method then. Your's wont make it worse.

Nor would I. Replace whe you start hitting that level.

No need if you arent selling and a rug works.

Hey, cats and dogs, living in sin here (grin).
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Confess, they are your stains.
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On 3/27/2010 3:03 PM, Stepfann King wrote:

I guess, in an holistic way, they *are* my stains.
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ng_reader wrote:

Cover it with laminate.
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On 3/27/2010 3:26 PM, HeyBub wrote:

I could paint it, ignore it, shall I go on?
Natural wood has a rare and wonderful beauty that would only increase the value of the foyer.
++++
I will sand and sand. then fill with wood putty. Then sand some more. then stain. then polyurethane, sand again, then polyurethane.
Oh, and the bleachey thing too.
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