Home Depot carries a low level Andersen and Lowes has a low line of Pella.
I have vinyl clad andersen. ONe problem is that if a sill gets damaged it
is a bitch to replace. I know from experience. Pella is supposed to be
better designed for component replacemnet. I have mostly Andersen vinyl
clad wood windows and putting in Pella sliding doors and entrance doors.
Pella seems better designed to me. I like their new vanishing screens.
If it's wood you want, and you're really looking for quality. My decision
would be between Marvin & Hurd. Now if you're not opposed to vinyl, there
are some really good vinyl products out there by other manufacturers. I
agree, I wouldn't even think shopping HD/Lowes.
Well, my patio doors are standard glass doors - 72" wide and 80" tall (not
wood frame). If I could I would just buy the standard-size Andersen at HD
and put it in myslef with th ehelp of a buddy.
But I figured as I need the front bay replaced 10' wide x 5' high (again -
not wood), which also has a vertical crank casement window on either side,
I'd look to have one place do both for me.
If you never installed a door, best to help someone that has and knows the
correct way, not just someone that threw a door in and think they got a
bargain over the professional price. Besides plumb/level/square, the
flashing work is most important. You do not want a bunch of caulk replacing
flashing, caulk is a very poor substitute for flashing (head/sides/sill).
You must also caulk under sill and insulate the cavities at both side jambs
and at head jamb.
A couple years ago I put in a 10 ft wide x 53" high vinyl bay, had double
hung both sides, 21" projection, oak seat board and head board along with
factory insulated seat. Had lowE and argon filled. My cost (contractor) was
a tad over 3k not including further incidentals such as coil stock, interior
trim, further insulation, misc vertical vinyl, lumber, J channels, etc. This
was for material only, no roof needed for it went out under a 24" soffit.
This was for a really good virgin vinyl window (Polaris). Keep in mind, you
do not have to stay with the same projection as you have now. Also, you can
change the end windows to whatever suits your fancy, you do not have to stay
with casements (casements are more expensive than double hung)
I also put in a 10'x8' Marvin Bow with just awning windows in the end
panels. Projection of 16", my cost just for the window was slightly under
When all said and done, the vinyl looked as good as the Marvin, _but_ the
Marvin definately is a better window.
Happy window shopping.
I made reference to the cost of the vinyl bay. Cost of Marvin bay at the
time for a 10'x53" bay was almost 5k compared to the 3k. Also, both windows
the head & seat board were not solid oak, but oak veneer 3/4" ply, which you
had to edge band either with the iron on edging, or glue and brad tack oak
you cut on a table saw.
The Polaris vinyl bays and bows do put 5/8" threaded rods in the corners
where picture meets operational windows, which is there for strength plus
you can bolt to rafters on overhangs. Also, the Polaris vinyl frames were
foam filled for additional insulating.
Hey I was just pulling your chain. I'm ok, you're ok, but still,
most of what they sell is the exact same as what you get in the high
priced stores. Many seem to believe that mfgs have special
warehouses to ship their Home depot junk too. Not true.
On Thu, 08 Jul 2004 15:33:50 -0500, someone wrote:
big box stores. Now, to what degree these items differ from the 'full
price' versions is a matter of debate and variation. It could have
the exact same significant characteristics and just be eye wash so
they can assure their other wholesale customers they don't sell the
same product to HD. OR it could be quite different.
Clothing mfgs do the same thing with Walmart vs. say Macy's and the
Pella entry doors are identical in quality at LOwes as at a Pella store but
a thousand dollars cheaper. Unfortuantly the windows and sliding doors at
LOwes are only the cheaper versions but they should still be good.
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