I need to have both my sliding glass patio doors as well as my front living room bay window replaced. My two options are Andersen or Pella. Andersen I believe is good enough and of sufficient quality that it meets my expectations/criteria.
I know Pella is kinda a one-stop dealer providing installation as well. I was wondering if Pella, including installation, would be more expensive than purchasing Andersen and having a contractor (or window installer) install them. I am thinking the answer would be - yes. Especially for the bay window I am thinking there would be a fair amount of carpentry required. The patio doors are pretty standard.
Sure thy can. Takes but a minute to take it out and give it a hose job. If you are really daring, it can be done from inside but my wife won't let me. Ed
My thoughts are that I have a house full of relatively new Pella wooden windows, and unless you live in a completely dry climate, I *would not* buy wooden windows again. Pella was supposed to release a vinyl window, and I'd consider it, but I've had about 10 Pella windows/doors replaced in 10 years due to rot problems (despite any number of professional painters calking and painting to beat the band).
(Oh, and I have the aluminum clad variety, which I was told would make me a worry-free home owner :( ).
Anderson have better glass and condense at a higher humidity, CDF. I have both and the Andersons never condense Pellas do. A factory installer guarntees your windows will be in Warranty for the warranty life. I had a Hack instal mine out of square and level, 1/8 is all the fatory allows any more and No warranty... That is how many claims are dismissed. Luckily I caught 4 mistakes and made the Hack redo it . It wasn`t worth it.
Consumer reports has a good article and rates and explains CDF , SHG , VLT, R & total U value and alot more . Glass is not made equal. Andersons machine for coating is a 30,000,000$ machine that gives great clear glass. My instaler, I sued and won and he has no money, I still have problems to fix. Instalation is key, factory is best, research from consumer reports.
Marvin is another top line. Pella sliding doors I dont like because the screen is on the inside, so after leaving your door open all night where do you think the bugs will go when you have to open the screen to close the door , Hint , inside with you. I think its a stupid design. Pella does have the triple track option I dont think Anderson has , but the screen design made me say no. to Pella. My wood pella windows I wipe down every dam day in winter , ice forms and now mold is setting in the seam. Im not happy with Pella at all on this, they are 2 yrs old. And I dont use a humidifier in winter. With winows you get what you pay for. Pellas were a " best Buy " at consumer reports but I paid no attention to the CDF rating.
This is Abe (we exchanged some omni-filters and food prep items).
Your comment reminds me of an old Tim Allen bit where he talks about using a leaf blower to dust the inside of the house. Hilarious - I'd love to try it.
Harry, get new level just smaller than the inside frame diameter so it fits in the actual window and practice. To measure Square 2 people and string are used for a slider its diagonal both ways. Or a carpenters old fashioned folding wood measuring stick with the brass extender. Again it takes practice , being exact is necessary, so learn If you find a mistake be sure you are right the contractor will be pissed off on a redo. Dont complain till you are Well Passed your deposit point or guys Walk over Redos. Be sure he has more to loose than you. Be sure sealant is proper and in the right place and of proper type. Be sure you dont have tight frames that wont allow for specified expansion. Plumb on an old tilting house may or may not break a warranty, Ck your house , call the window Co. Get it in writing or make them plumb. 1/8" is the max allowed by Pella and Anderson, Your window Co may be different 1/16" for ex. Get it in writing or you may find you have No Warranty from day 1 . Read your instructions. There is more but Im no window pro I learned the hard way . So did my hack instaler. Who I found out later Has 8 judgements on him [ Im # 8 ] No drivers lisence and 3 warrants out on him in 2 states and the wifey has a Mercedes and I cant collect. And regurarly takes deposits and Leaves. Ck court records. If warranty states 1/8" and he is at 1/8" dont accept it . In 10 yrs your house may shift out. Put in contract Installer to follow instalation instructions. They say Plump..Level..and Square.. thats Exact and what it should be.
Home Depot carries a low level Andersen and Lowes has a low line of Pella.
I have vinyl clad andersen. ONe problem is that if a sill gets damaged it is a bitch to replace. I know from experience. Pella is supposed to be better designed for component replacemnet. I have mostly Andersen vinyl clad wood windows and putting in Pella sliding doors and entrance doors. Pella seems better designed to me. I like their new vanishing screens.
If it's wood you want, and you're really looking for quality. My decision would be between Marvin & Hurd. Now if you're not opposed to vinyl, there are some really good vinyl products out there by other manufacturers. I agree, I wouldn't even think shopping HD/Lowes.
Well, my patio doors are standard glass doors - 72" wide and 80" tall (not wood frame). If I could I would just buy the standard-size Andersen at HD and put it in myslef with th ehelp of a buddy.
But I figured as I need the front bay replaced 10' wide x 5' high (again - not wood), which also has a vertical crank casement window on either side, I'd look to have one place do both for me.
If you never installed a door, best to help someone that has and knows the correct way, not just someone that threw a door in and think they got a bargain over the professional price. Besides plumb/level/square, the flashing work is most important. You do not want a bunch of caulk replacing flashing, caulk is a very poor substitute for flashing (head/sides/sill). You must also caulk under sill and insulate the cavities at both side jambs and at head jamb.
A couple years ago I put in a 10 ft wide x 53" high vinyl bay, had double hung both sides, 21" projection, oak seat board and head board along with factory insulated seat. Had lowE and argon filled. My cost (contractor) was a tad over 3k not including further incidentals such as coil stock, interior trim, further insulation, misc vertical vinyl, lumber, J channels, etc. This was for material only, no roof needed for it went out under a 24" soffit. This was for a really good virgin vinyl window (Polaris). Keep in mind, you do not have to stay with the same projection as you have now. Also, you can change the end windows to whatever suits your fancy, you do not have to stay with casements (casements are more expensive than double hung)
I also put in a 10'x8' Marvin Bow with just awning windows in the end panels. Projection of 16", my cost just for the window was slightly under
10k.
When all said and done, the vinyl looked as good as the Marvin, _but_ the Marvin definately is a better window.
I made reference to the cost of the vinyl bay. Cost of Marvin bay at the time for a 10'x53" bay was almost 5k compared to the 3k. Also, both windows the head & seat board were not solid oak, but oak veneer 3/4" ply, which you had to edge band either with the iron on edging, or glue and brad tack oak you cut on a table saw.
The Polaris vinyl bays and bows do put 5/8" threaded rods in the corners where picture meets operational windows, which is there for strength plus you can bolt to rafters on overhangs. Also, the Polaris vinyl frames were foam filled for additional insulating.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.