Patching holes in a steel entry door

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The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.
What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?
It's a heavy steal entry door.
Any help is appreciated Thanks
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On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 10:25:21 PM UTC-4, sid wrote:

screw a metal plate over the area, then paint door....
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On 03/30/2015 09:25 PM, sid wrote:

Since the door is assumed to be hollow, if you put filler in the holes it may fall out. I'd just use pop rivets and paint to match.
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Or a wooden steel clad door. If that, it's probably not hollow in the corners. If really steel***, it probably is hollow.
I had neighbors with a steel door with a life-time guarantee, the kind advertised on TV. When the burglars broke through it, the door company said they would get a free replacement door. Life-time guarantee.
***To find out what it's made of, remove the door and put it in the bathtub. See if it floats or not. Don't let too many bubbles come out of the holes or too much water get inside the door.

Yes indeed.

They have holes in the middle. (although that might be cute. )
I might glue a small square or squares of metal over the area with the holes. with a thin layer of PC-7, JB weld or best,, 5-minute epoxy, because you can hold it in place until it sets.

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wrote:

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wrote:

screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.

LB Weld. Then sand and paint it.
If it was my door, I'd probably just put the screws back in the door and paint them to match.
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On 03/30/2015 11:59 PM, snipped-for-privacy@spamblocked.com wrote:

Is LB Weld a Chinese knock-off?
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On 3/31/2015 4:25 AM, Mayhem wrote:

In the US, we are up to NB weld, they improve every couple years. NASA has reported to use PB weld. Has kind of a dull metalic look to it.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
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On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 08:27:04 -0400, Stormin Mormon

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On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote:

were mounted via plastic barb-like extrusions and merely pushed into holes in the steel. I removed the do-dads and used Bondo to fill and slightly over fill the holes and then sand it smooth. Worked great.
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On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 9:25:21 PM UTC-5, sid wrote:

Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.
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On 3/31/2015 7:58 AM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

will stick good in a vertical position.
Bill
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wrote:

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When I've used it on a fender, for example, I've always turned the car on its side.

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On 4/1/2015 3:29 AM, micky wrote:

I had to do that with a muffler patch, on the bottom. Problem is the blue washer fluid puddled under the hood (bonnet for UK) and was hard to recover.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
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| Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? | Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.
I'd second Bill Gill's advice. Bondo is quick and will stay almost anywhere. I also use it to fill hinge mortises, casing joints and other areas where spackle or wood putty would fall out. The one critical point with Bondo is to keep track of time. In under five minutes you can shear off the excess with something like a wallpaper scraper. In a couple more minutes you'll need a Surfiorm plane. After maybe 10 minutes you have a very hard surface that will take work to sand. The point being that you don't want to glop it on and then expect to come back tomorrow and sand it down.
If the Bondo ever does fall out you might consider just attaching something that will cover the holes and looks like it belongs there.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If you use JBWeld or Bondo, they will sag a bit. Same for any epoxy filled with whatever. However, as they start to set they get firmer, just push it back. It can take anywhere from 2-20 minutes (Bondo) to start to set,1-3 or more hours for epoxies, depends on how much catalyst you add.
Bondo is polyester resin with (mostly) talc and will set up the fastest.
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Sid,
Metal hole plugs will snap into the holes and stay until you pry them out. Come in lots of sizes.
Dave M.
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On 3/30/2015 10:25 PM, sid wrote:

Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes.
I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#repair-epoxies/=wjrqza
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Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Best idea yet.
dadiOH
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