Patching holes in a steel entry door

The previous owner of my home mounted curtains on the front entry door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.

What would be the best product to use to patch those holes ? and that won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?

It's a heavy steal entry door.

Any help is appreciated Thanks

Reply to
sid
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screw a metal plate over the area, then paint door....

Reply to
bob haller

Since the door is assumed to be hollow, if you put filler in the holes it may fall out. I'd just use pop rivets and paint to match.

Reply to
philo

JB weld or other filled epoxy, sanded smooth and painted.

Reply to
clare

door. I took them down because they looked so bad, but now I have empty screw holes where the screws were for the brackets.

won't crack and fall out 2 years from now ?

LB Weld. Then sand and paint it.

If it was my door, I'd probably just put the screws back in the door and paint them to match.

Reply to
Jerry.Tan

Or a wooden steel clad door. If that, it's probably not hollow in the corners. If really steel***, it probably is hollow.

I had neighbors with a steel door with a life-time guarantee, the kind advertised on TV. When the burglars broke through it, the door company said they would get a free replacement door. Life-time guarantee.

***To find out what it's made of, remove the door and put it in the bathtub. See if it floats or not. Don't let too many bubbles come out of the holes or too much water get inside the door.

Yes indeed.

They have holes in the middle. (although that might be cute. )

I might glue a small square or squares of metal over the area with the holes. with a thin layer of PC-7, JB weld or best,, 5-minute epoxy, because you can hold it in place until it sets.

Reply to
micky

Is LB Weld a Chinese knock-off?

Reply to
Mayhem

I had a 1970s steel door with decorative plastic do-dads on it. They were mounted via plastic barb-like extrusions and merely pushed into holes in the steel. I removed the do-dads and used Bondo to fill and slightly over fill the holes and then sand it smooth. Worked great.

Reply to
Art Todesco

In the US, we are up to NB weld, they improve every couple years. NASA has reported to use PB weld. Has kind of a dull metalic look to it.

- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.

Reply to
sidwelle

Sid,

Metal hole plugs will snap into the holes and stay until you pry them out. Come in lots of sizes.

Dave M.

Reply to
David L. Martel

I'm not sure about others, but Bondo is car body filler. It will stick good in a vertical position.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Gill

| Do I have to lay to door flat to use any of these epoxies ? | Would be nice to leave the door in place and just glue.

I'd second Bill Gill's advice. Bondo is quick and will stay almost anywhere. I also use it to fill hinge mortises, casing joints and other areas where spackle or wood putty would fall out. The one critical point with Bondo is to keep track of time. In under five minutes you can shear off the excess with something like a wallpaper scraper. In a couple more minutes you'll need a Surfiorm plane. After maybe 10 minutes you have a very hard surface that will take work to sand. The point being that you don't want to glop it on and then expect to come back tomorrow and sand it down.

If the Bondo ever does fall out you might consider just attaching something that will cover the holes and looks like it belongs there.

Reply to
Mayayana

Bondo would work, but you'd have to buy too much to just fill a couple of holes.

I'd get the type of epoxy that is on a ribbon. You cut off what you need, mix by kneading it, then fill the holes.

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Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

If you use JBWeld or Bondo, they will sag a bit. Same for any epoxy filled with whatever. However, as they start to set they get firmer, just push it back. It can take anywhere from 2-20 minutes (Bondo) to start to set,1-3 or more hours for epoxies, depends on how much catalyst you add.

Bondo is polyester resin with (mostly) talc and will set up the fastest.

Reply to
dadiOH

Best idea yet.

dadiOH

Reply to
dadiOH

The holes may have a ridge from the previously installed screws. Sand the paint surface to rough it up and then just dimple the surface around the hole so that the hole is depressed below the surface of the door. You can use a ball peen hammer or a hammer with a punch to depress the surface around the hole. Then you can use Bondo or use an epoxy filler that you cut off a roll or ribbon and knead together then fill the hole to the surface. Any that oozes into the hole will help keep it in place just as plaster oozing between lath strips keeps it on the wall. I have used this method when we removed some venetian blinds from a metal door. The patches have lasted 10 years without any problems.

Reply to
EXT

-Easily removed with PB Blaster, too!!

Reply to
clare

As will JB weld

Reply to
clare

Sand and paint. Just like doing body work on a car, or patching drywall. Fill the hole with the epoxy, Knock off the high spots with sand paper. then add a bit of autobody glazing putty and feather it, then paint.

Reply to
clare

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