Parging of retaining wall

Hello,
I have just had a contractor replace a wooden 2 ft high retaining wall with a cement one...It runs over 180 ft in total length in different directions. ..please see photo of a portion of the wall here...
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pipelinor1/detail?.dir=/8d9d&.dnm |ac.jpg&.src=ph
The contractor is going to bring everything back to grade ..landscape etc... I am looking for any advice as to parging a wall of this type....any hints or anybody ever do there own parging?....did google...but found folks just wanting to push their products....thanks for any constructive advice on this....
Jim
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Jim wrote:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pipelinor1/detail?.dir=/8d9d&.dnm |ac.jpg&.src=ph
Here is a pretty good explanation of the process:
http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/leonard57.html
Although it is for cinder block walls, concrete is not much different. If we are doing smaller areas, we will use sand mix with an extra scoop of portland. If you want to invest the money, you can make it extra strong by using a latex additive instead of, or in addition to, the water, or by wetting the wall with the additive just prior to parging.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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I find a lot of contractors in the Charleston SC area using additives to reduce cracking. TB
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2 ft high retaining wall

length in different

the wall here...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pipelinor1/detail?.di r=/8d9d&.dnm|ac.jpg&.src=ph
WoW! Just what is that wall retaining? The road from coming into your yard?
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That looked odd to me, too, since the ground level on each side looks about the same. It will stop drunks from driving on the lawn, though. Anyway, my question is: Why parge it at all? You do that to a basement block or rubble wall to reduce water intrusion. That thing, I'd tar the part that's below ground, wait a year, and then paint it.
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I think you are asking about rubbing out the wall to remove bee holes and imperfections. Parging is a bit different. An offset grinder with a carborundum or diamond disk will make short work of form lines and any lumps caused by knot holes, etc. Now you have to choose which finish material and texture you want.
You can get a pleasant effect by using Thoroseal in a drywall texture gun. It will leave a splatter texture that is quite rugged and should disguise any imperfections in the form lines, etc. It comes as white, but can be tinted or painted.
You can use the finish coat of an EIFS system. I would apply with a fiberglass trowel. This material is available in many colors. Stop and watch the fellas applying it somewhere in your area. They may even give you some tips and advice.
You can apply bond agent to your wall and apply neat grout (equal fine sand and portland) with a hand rubbing stone. This one is the traditional finish but is extremely labor intensive.
Hope something here helps.
(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pipelinor1/detail?.dir=/8d9d&.dnm |ac.jpg&.src=ph
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Seems you need only to 'sack rub' the wall. Use a burlap sack and a mix of 3 parts sand to 1 part masonry cement rubbed into voids in circular pattern. This app has zilch to do with EIFC and it should not be considered.
-- Troweller^nospam^@canada.com
Remove the obvious to reply. Experienced and reliable Concrete Finishing and Synthetic Stucco application in the GTA.

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