Painting Trim/Door Casing and Doors

Okay, I'm sure this has been answered before, but here goes...
I would like to repaint the door casings in my house. Here's the situation.
The original casing was some sort of stained walnut looking stuff. This place was built in 1976 - go figure. Anyway, how do I know this? Because the previous owners painted over it with latex paint and without any sort of primer and it's peeling off here and there. Mind you, not a lot, but it is peeling off in places.
Here's my situation/question: I know that to get the best results, I should use an oil based paint, but that would mean having to put a coat of primer on the trim first. Even so, after I do this, I'll still see the bumpy, textured look of the roller that they used to paint it some time ago. So, if this is the case, then why bother to use the oil based paint if I won't get a flat look in the end anyway?
Seeing how 99% of the latex is still there, should I just paint over it with latex with a good brush and deal with the slightly textured look, or should I invest the time and strip all of the paint off, apply a coat of primer, and then a coat of oil based paint? Mind you, I'm not looking for the best way, I'm merely looking for a good way. I have a day job so I don't have days and weeks to spend on it.
As for the doors, I'm going to take those outside and spray them. Seems to be an acceptable method. Any issues with this? BTW, the doors were also painted with latex over mystery-substance, but nothing is peeling.
Thanks in advance for the advice, folks.
C
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Hi,
Use some 120 grit to sand the frames and get as much loose stuff off as possible. Use a semigloss enamal and use a hand held brush for best results.
candice
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Latex over oil base is usually a disaster, without sanding and priming. I would be tempted to test, by scratching, the integrity of the latex-oil stain bond on wide areas of trim and doors. If it is weak in many places, then I would remove the latex with chemicals, and start over, with cleaning, sanding, and priming. Then you can be assured your new paint will not be sabotaged by the earlier idiots work. I know this is a lot of work, but covering early mistakes always comes back to haunt you. If peeling and weak bonding is confined to just a few areas, you could go with Candice's solution, above.
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