OK, I now have 14 doors made of raw pine that need painting. Any suggestions on how to paint them? I have the ability to spray or brush. Should I paint them in place or remove them. I'm thinking remove them and paint them upright, but I await any suggestions.
Bernie
You'll get the best finish if you spray them. It's most convenient to paint them in place, but you'll get overspray everywhere. Take them down and spray them in the garage.
Take them outdoors on a nice day and either paint or spray. Why have the mess indoors? Removing the doors will make the work go faster and easier.
Do not do them outdoors...Overspray will drift around and get on things like your car or house or even worse your neighbors car or house , let alone all the bugs,dust,ect you will collect on your door size pieces of flypaper....Do as the previous poster suggested and you will be fine....
Come now, on a neighbor's house or car? I doubt it. As for bugs and dust, that's not always an issue. Pick a nice day with no breeze. At least you cold get the primer coat applied outdoors.
"benick" wrote in news:M_mdnRHYgd3GmOnVnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@neonova.net:
I primed and painted a whole house a couple of months ago spraying. Houses are pretty close. Just asked neighbor to move his car down the end of his driveway when I was working nearby for a warm-fuzzy. No issues. And that was with a 2800 PSI unit. The type with the spray head at the end of a hose.
I assume door painting will be done with a much smaller hand held sprayer.
Take them down. Put 2 big screws in each end and lay them on a sawhorse. Can now paint all sides at one time.
You are the first to ask instead of thinking to brush on a latex primer and ruining it with latex paint, you are smarter. but prep is Key. Benjamin Moore makes a Oil Primer " Enamel Underbody" that is to be sanded with up to 320g, your Key is to get the perfect smooth undercoat or Primer . Oil Penetrol is a great thinner for Moore Satin Impervo. But you can go Laquer routes, But remember you need a sanding Primer, to be sanded smooth as your finish will only be as good as your base is prepped.
Worst is Latex, But I can make a brush on finish like spray , with Impervo and Penetrol, better might be a laquer with a soft, sanded primer.
Use paint.
Yes, that's a handy tip. I suggest you use Floetrol in the paint if it's latex. It helps it to flow. As to inside/outside, you are the best judge of where you have a good place. As to outside with no dust, wind, or bugs, I really don't think there's a place on the planet that fits that description. I know I have painted a few times I "thought" it was calm, only to later find bugs and airborne flotsam.
One important thing: DO NOT APPEAR TO BE A NEWBIE OR IMBECILE BY LEAVING ANY HARDWARE ON. Same goes for jambs. It's easy to remove, gives you a professional looking job, and if you have any loose screws, you will find out on remounting hardware. Just stick a matchstick in any loose screw hole and break and trim off, and the screw will be a lot more secure. Do NOT use any glue. Tape any glass or anything you don't want paint on.
Steve
If you spray them laying flat dust may ruin the finish, be sure to practice first on technique.
Darn, I was hoping to use my new box of 200 colors of crayon.
;}
Bernie
Why not use glue?
R
You weren't clear on your earlier post. I thought you were saying not to use glue when you stick in the sliver of wood, which is something I usually do. You're right that standard woodworking glue alone won't be effective over the long term, but there's nothing wrong with using glue and wood slivers. I just wanted to clarify that.
R
the right way is to plug the hole with a glued in dowel, cut off flush with a chisel or a flush -cut saw, and redrill the hole.
Why not use glue?
RThink ahead to when you want to get the screw OUT ............. Or want to tighten it. Most glues will fracture into tiny pieces, not allowing for tightening.
Besides that, the object is to get the screw to use inclined plane force of physics to work. So, you add more material to reinforce the grip.
Think of it this way ...... you have a sloppy hole. What you gonna do? Fill it full of glue and stick a screw in the glue? It's going to be loose, since you can't screw it tight and bring everything together. You'll end up with a weak moveable joint from square one.
Or, at least that has been my experience from using glue and finding out it just doesn't work as well as real wood for some things.
Steve
There is no drying time. I like to use toothpicks, the square ones that transition into smooth tapered cones at either end. I smear a little glue on one toothpick's end and stick it into the hole, break it off flush, put glue on the broken end and stick that into the hole, then just screw on the hinge. Essentially I'm reversing the ends so not all of the tapers are pointing in the same direction. The glue will dry on its own schedule while I'm off working on mine.
R
You weren't clear on your earlier post. I thought you were saying not to use glue when you stick in the sliver of wood, which is something I usually do. You're right that standard woodworking glue alone won't be effective over the long term, but there's nothing wrong with using glue and wood slivers. I just wanted to clarify that.
RI agree. I've put a lot of slivers in there, watching them go to wherever lost socks go. Only thing I can think of is drying time. But if you want to wait, and that's what works for you, results are what we want.
Steve
RicodJour wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@8g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
Variation: I'll often snip them off a little long with pointed wire cutters then hammer them till their flush to maximize the actual wood in the hole. When the glue and wood are dry, shave it off flush if necessary..
Wood glue with toothpicks works well to fix a hole.
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