I am painting a (cheap) prehung primed door I bought from Home Depot with a
semigloss paint. I used Behr at first that I had leftover from another
project. It had a tiny bit of Floetrol in it to allow me a little more work
time. The gloss was blotchy and uneven.
So then I tried some Valspar paint (no Floetrol) but the color wasn't quite
So, my final try was Glidden (no Floetrol again). I lightly sanded before
painting. The color is perfect but the sheen is still uneven and it looks
like the underlying paint is raising up and making it look really grainy.
Should I strip this mess off with a chemical stripper and start over? I
admit I am a dumbshit when it comes to painting so I really would like to
know what to do about this. Any help appreciated.
These are the things I can think of that would affect sheen...
1. Not enough mixing of the paint. Paint - other than glossy - contains
flatting material and it needs to be evenly distributed.
2. Uneven application. The sheen changes as the paint dries/cures; the
final sheen doesn't appear until considerable time, a couple of weeks.
Until then, it will vary depending on the thickness of the paint film as it
is drying differentially; if appled evenly to a prepared surface, it will
appear much the same; if thicker here, thinner there, the sheen will be
3. Improper surface preparation such that some areas are more absorbent than
others. With a pre-primed door, that is unlikely.
You said, "it looks like the underlying paint is raising up and making it
look really grainy." Hard to determine what you really mean but if you used
a brush either #1 and/or #2 could apply and what you characterize as grain
is actually brush marks.
If the door has a 'built-in' grain to look more like wood, no idea what to
do. If the door is relatively flat surfaces; this is what I would do...
Get a sheet of 300-400 grain wt 'n' dry, flat plastic block [do NOT use
soft pad], and a couple of bottles of cheap Walmart Glass Cleaner, or you
can use Jet-Dri [costs more]
lay the door down flat, sand gently using the liquid to keep a slurry
going, don't go through the finish if possible [not a catastrophe, but
more like a set back] Wipe/clean the surface free of muck. Let dry. Vacuum
maybe, but definitely tack-rag! Then pour your finish into a throw away
container, use new brush, and flow the paint on. Do NOT work and rework
the paint, just let it go on. Let it cure 24 to 48 hours. Repeat the wet
'n' dry sanding procedure to get out little 'stipples' and really flatten
the surface. Dry and TACK RAG IT AGAIN! Using new container and new brush
[should be new, but not absolutely necessary] and flow on your final
Doing this will make the final results look like a formica surface FLAT!
Over time if there is wood underneath, the wood grain will reassert itself
and you'll have a great looking wood grain surface.
On Tuesday, October 8, 2013 8:10:03 PM UTC-4, James Harvey wrote:
I've had good results using paint that has been
around for quite a long time, but one has to wonder,
how old was this paint? And you mixed it up really
It had a tiny bit of Floetrol in it to allow me a little more work
You did use two coats, right? That Behr label does
say it can be used as it's own primer, right?
If it was the
gloss that was the issue, I wonder if there were
differences in the surface sanding finish of the
I would have put on another coat of the Behr.
I'm using Behr Ultra Enamel Satin right now.
It's a little weird. When you roll it on, at first
it has a very rough, orange peel like look to it,
almost like it's sticking in spots and avoiding
other spots. I've never noticed that with a paint
before. But as you conintue to roll it as it's
starting to dry, it evens out and leaves an excellent finish.
Also, Behr interior paint was rated very high,
right up there with Benjamin Moore, by Consumer
Reports, so I doubt the paint is the problem.
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