Painting and the evil Blue Tape

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So why is it every time I try to use the blue tape on top of a freshly painted wall I have issues? I painted my ceiling, then taped it off to paint the wall. When finished, I start to remove the tape and up comes my fresh paint with the tape. I waited 24 hours. I also tried running a razor blade in the corner to help free up the tape. Whats the trick?
Matt
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Matt wrote in message

Boy, I'd like an answer to that one myself. It's usually a nightmare.
Cheri
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On May 9, 3:24 pm, "Cheri" <gserviceatinreachdotcom> wrote:

I ditched the tape and picked up a good quality brush and just free handed the job. But, I am going to be panting a cieling 17ft high, tape would be preferred.
Matt
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3M makes a variety of masking tapes with different properties. You are just using the wrong one, apparently. Go to a store that carries the complete line, and read the labels. 3M is a pretty big company. Who knows? - They may even have a website with the information you need to choose the correct tape for the application.
CWM
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I suppose what it means is that the adhesion of new paint to old paint is less than adhesion of the tape used to the new paint.
how did you prep the old paint before you painted the ceiling?
But probably there a number of other more important issues.
There are a couple of blue tapes. Which did you use?
You should be using "Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape for Delicate Surfaces". It has an orange and blue core. The other kind is "Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces"
You can only use the Multi-Surface tape on paint 30 days old.
see http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/painting_masking/painting_masking/product_information/tape_selector/
for details on which tape to use for which surfaces
Other notes: 3m says to wait 24 hours for new paint to dry before you put blue tape on it. overnite isn't enough.
removal tips from the 3m web site
"Speed of Removal A moderate speed is best for removing tape. An excessive rate of removal may cause tearing or damage of the surface, while a slow rate of removal may transfer adhesive.
Angle of Removal Remove tape at a 45-degree angle, pulling the tape back on itself. If the adhesive begins to transfer, remove at a 90 degree angle
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(Check you any insurance policy you might have) Long time on a ladder, imo.
I have 10ft ceiling and recently around 14ft ceilings. Never saw or used tape. Free hand! -- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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The trick is to not use tape.
Paint the ceiling first as you did. Then you get a good brush and "cut in" the wall. You load the brush with paint, then place it on the wall just below the ceiling. Now that your hand is steady, draw the brush up and across the seam and back down to end the stroke. It will be 99% perfect and that 1% you won't see from ground level.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Thats exactly what you would see a painter do. Buying 25 rolls of tape and taping everything is something you only see on those home improvement shows sponsored by big box stores.
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wrote:

I call him "Pops". He spent a decade in painter apprenticeship. I really listen as he tells me. What's Tape?
-- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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Thanks for the tip. That sounds much more useful than tape. Arrrrgh... I hate the tape.
Cheri
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On Wed, 9 May 2007 17:17:46 -0700, "Cheri" <gserviceatinreachdotcom> wrote:

The cost of blue partner tape is what I really hate. -- Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
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On Wed, 9 May 2007 17:17:46 -0700, "Cheri" <gserviceatinreachdotcom> wrote:

Note that, for a high ceiling, you can paint the top edge of the wall the same color as the ceiling, and only bring the wall color up to about 1/4" of the corner. Your eyes won't let you see that the edge isn't where the color-change is.
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Yeah, except a straight line away from a corner is about impossible to paint.
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Goedjn wrote:
SNIPS

Thats good,
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On May 9, 8:17 pm, "Cheri" <gserviceatinreachdotcom> wrote:

Agreed. Having done an entire house as well as the dining room and kitchen in my own house, I can tell you the blue tape is more headache than it's worth, except in one, small case: painting windows. Then it's been a great help to me, better than traditional masking tape, and good as long as I remove it within minutes of painting around the glass.
On the other hand, it's always been far easier for me to paint the seam between wall and ceiling or wall and wall-mounted object (such as cabinets) free hand, or with a paint shield.
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Matt wrote:

Let the paint dry first. Not "finger dry", DRY! A week or more.
Better (as you discovered) just to skip the tape.
--

dadiOH
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Try a paint shield if you do it free hand, especially a real long one for this application. You can mount them on short extension poles to make it easier to handle. You can also use a hockey stick brush with a shield to cut in without using a ladder. They also make brush holders that mount to extension poles and allow the brush to be tipped at any angle. This makes it possible to do really tall walls without a ladder.
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Trick? Cut it in without tape. It's the only real way to avoid tape issues. Last time we used tape, we pulled most of the previous layers of paint AND some of the sheetrock mud out of the corners next to the ceiling. No more tape for us. Even the stuff that just barely sticks is a pain.
--
Steve Barker




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Matt wrote:

not just dry - before you tape over it. Remove the tape as soon as the newest coat is applied so it doesn't dry to the paint film. Also helps when removing it to pull it flat back on itself, not out and away from surface.
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