I used to slice through metal, mostly aluminum, using a chop saw tipped
with carbide teeth. It would slice through brass quite easily but I know
stainless stuff comes in varying degrees of hardness. I would have to do
a little research to find out hardness vs magnetic properties of
stainless steel. It seems that every time I use stainless screws in
wood, the darn things break on me if I'm not very careful. ^_^
I might end up cutting a hole in the other tray to make it into a shallow
sink. I burned out a Sabre(tm) saw<g> trying to cut through it with metal
cutting blades. This was in the 70's before the internet. If I decide to
cut the tray (not doing any 30" by 40" color printing anymore) I'll come
back and ask some specifics. I don't recall using any cutting oil (although
I should have remembered from machine shop) but I will do it the next time.
These are two hand-made stainless trays made to do large photo prints in
trays. It's pretty thick and has rolled over and tacked edges. Even
rounded corners. Obviously the dude that made them had access to some
pretty serious metal-shaping tools. Very heavy. I'll have to take my
calipers to them. (Just got up to do that, and instead but instead tackled
a stain on the kitchen wall a little too aggressively and now the old yellow
color is showing through the white. Fortunately I had poured the last of
the kitchen paint into a soda bottle that I can squeeze to keep the air out.
It's worked for 8 years now without the paint drying out. I think that was
a tip I got from the painting guy on This Old House - whose name has just
gone blank - Tommy! There it is. DiSilva?
OK - just discovered my nifty new HF electronic calipers will NOT read
around the rolled edges and my stinkin' BIL has my Dad's Brown & Sharpe
micrometer which could have measured around the hump. I guess I've got to
get a new mike. )-: Using button magnet and the zero feature I get 2mm but
that's with a lot of slop. Oh well, now I have an excuse to visit Harbor
Freight to buy more tools I'll probably use only once like a self-igniting
propane torch for burning weeds and melting ice off stairs.
I got them from the guy who had the Jag V-12. He wasn't going to have time
to do any darkroom work keeping that thing going. It was the most
complicated set of mechanical cross-linkages I've ever seen in a car. When
it was in tune, there was no noise or vibration coming from it. Only heat.
When it was in tune (and that wasn't very often). Can't say that for my
little four-banger Honda that's still going after 21 years. Today is snake
the sunroof drain holes day. A real Achilles' heel for the Prelude. Bad,
bad, bad design - almost unreachable without major disassembly but
fortunately someone in the Honda group designed a little air compressor
adapter out of some surgical tubing and a Bic pen that makes the job doable
if you remember to slowly ramp up the air pressure instead of blasting
120psi into it to start with.
Thanks for the tip. I never cut any stainless after that first disaster
where I finally had to drill holes all around the circle line - small bit,
larger bit and then the sabre saw to cut between the holes. I even bought a
hole saw alleged to cut metal (maybe aluminum). It scuffed up the surface
and make a good guide line to drill the punch-out holes. The only time we
worked with hardened steel in machine shop was when we had to grind tool
bits for the overhead belt-driven lathes stamped "Property of War
Department" that still had faded labels that said "Loose Lips Sink Ships."
I often wondered what was made with it before it got donated to our school .
What kind of paint and how much? Latex, no problem at all to speak of.
Very heavy coats of old enamel can be pretty tough on steel blades.
I use carbide knives in a small industrial planer (not a typical
lunchbox portable that are now the rage) and don't much worry about it
and reclaim a lot of material. I don't know much about how sturdy the
knives are in those...
Running painted boards through the planer will dull and nick the blades. It
will also eject paint chips so you don't want to have the planer connected
to your dust collection if you use your shavings for composting, gardening,
When I want to recycle old painted lumber, I usually use the tablesaw or
bandsaw to trim off the painted edge. Then I can plane the lumber as usual.
Obviously, the wood needs to be thick enough to have salvageable lumber
when you are finished trimming and planing.
Of course, you should use a metal detector of some type to check for nails
or other metal objects before you send the lumber through your power tools.
Again, depends on what kind of and how much paint...a coat or two of
interior latex, I'd not worry a lick (either on the planer nor the
composting, etc.). 20 coats of an old oil-based enamel, that's
Still, for a quantity of good lumber, even the cost of a set of
replacement knives isn't necessarily much to pay as compared to what one
might have to give for the same quantity of similar quality lumber
(particularly if it is old, you might even have trouble finding anything
of such quality today, anyway).
All in all, I'd say whether it's a good idea or not depends on far more
than is known of OPs situation as far as whether he'd be ahead or behind
in the end.
As noted, I do such routinely w/ carbide knives on the planer; I keep an
old set of jointer knives specifically for such rough work there; w/ one
of these lunchbox planers I'd probably do the same; they're not that
Alternative but slower is, of course, to use the belt sander w/ 20-30
grit belts to scuff off the worst before planing.
On Jun 19, 7:04 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes, but so does running unpainted wood through a planer.
Whether paint would make much difference obviously depends on the
paint and how thick it was. Even if there were a detectable
difference, it still might be worth it, depending on what alternatives
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