Painted Shower - now it's discoloring


I painted my cast iron tub a few months ago with oil-based exterior white enamel paint. It looked great at first, but now it's starting to turn more of a cream color.
Thinking it was just dirty, I hit it with some "Soft Scrub with bleach" and it didn't help. Is the paint yellowing, or is it something in my water? I have old galvanized pipes through the house and it is a bit rusty, but all the paint seems to all be the same cream color, even areas that aren't ever directly exposed to water, only to steam.
If it is the water, is there some sort of urethane clear coat or something I can spray or roll on that will hold up to the heat, water and chemicals?
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You've just discovered why nobody paints cast iron bath tubs. Before you painted, what was the surface like? Old messed up porcelain?
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On 26 Dec 2006 13:01:05 -0800, " snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com"
Is the paint yellowing, or is it something in my

It's the paint.
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That is not the proper way to re-coat a tub. There are some epoxy paints for just that, as well as some methods used by professionals in that line of work. I think you have a lot of work ahead of you.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I a previous posting where I gave a professional answer to your question about searching for tile, you answered by trashing me and saying:
"This is part of the reason why I'm doing this project myself, you never know what to expect when you hire folks like "thetiler" to do work. "
What you get when you "hire the tiler to do the work" is a person who doesn't wing-it by painting a bathtub and tile with exterior paint, especially without a primer. Did you remove every bit of soap film or residue? Did you etch the surface? Did you research the proper "paint" to use?
A professional does work that won't fail under ordinary circumstances and is guaranteed to be right.
If you are a professional at something feel free to give advice and make judgments in that particular area, but if you're just winging it all the time, as least be open to professional advice and don't try to correct it if you have no idea what you're talking about.
IMO the thing that spoils alt.home.repair the most is all the wrong advice that's thrown out into cyberspace.
the tiler
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It was 'messed up' porcelain before... it was very etched and it just wasn't looking so hot.
The paint is more of a cream color than yellow...it's just that I've just put in some trim that I painted with the same gallon of paint, and it is a few shades whiter than the tub. If it is the paint causing this, than I guess I'm just going to have to accept a cream color instead of the gleaming white.
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Just to entertain yourself, did you read the instructions on the paint can, before or after the debacle?
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

maybe that's rust leaching through oil takes a very long time to dry
did you prime the steel first? the primer comes in a spray can. it converts rust to a permanent paintable surface
I did the same thing. I painted steel with oil paint. i did use the primer.. so far no leaching... the stuff works great
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The iron wasn't exposed in that tub... and I painted the ugly 60's green tile surround at the same time...and it's turned cream color as well.
I've painted molding with this stuff before and it hasn't yellowed at all. I figure it's got something to do with the water or heat or something that the shower is exposed to and the moldings are not.
Thanks for all the help gents. The cream color is kinda growing on me now that I know I can't just scrub it off or something.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

i bet it is growing on you, lol
maybe your lighting will make it look perfect like candles, or lower watt bulbs?
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Exactly what paint did you use for this? Make, model, link, etc.
Sounds like you used whatever you had instead of paint specifically intended for this purpose. And exactly how did you prerare the surface? How did you apply the paint?
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

it was a rustoleum product, it's called a rust converter, oppossed to being a blocker it's creates a chemical reaction in the steel.. vs.. masking it.. they only sell one brand at lowes or hd...
i painted 8 - 8x8x20' foot steel sq tube columns
i used a scraper to get the existing peeling paint off, then buffed the rusted places with a wire brush... you're not gonna get all the rust off.. and it dont' matter.. you'll be converting the rust..
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

nah, i bought what i needed for the job
i wanted a converter and oil paint
it was the fastest 500.00 i ever made, the owner was furios he says, you didn't tell me it would only take 3 hours.
SOOO!!! pay up sucka! the job is done.. the work is worth the price, it's non-negotiable
damn indians
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Oil paints yellow over time, especially if not exposed to sunlight. You should have used an epoxy, probably.
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I think your biggest problems are using a rust converter instead of completely removing the rust, and using the wrong paint. I'd remove all the paint and rust and try again the appropriate materials..
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