Paint Stripper again

Now that the temp. has dropped below 70 again, I've been trying to strip paint off the outside of a steel entry door again, but after half an hour, except for the odd small patches where paint is coming off when I scrape it, all that's coming off is a clear film (presumably the dried stripper) leaving the paint underneath virtually unscathed.
The previous owners left none of this paint behind (they left others), so I have no idea what it is. Supposing it is an epoxy? Would that behave the way I'm seeing, and would that indicate that some extra-strength stripper is needed?
Perce
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Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

Okay, since the existing paint is so impervious to your efforts, _why_ would you want to mess with it? Unless it's horribly irregular. (If it ain't broken ... )
Assuming you've a reason to paint it, which is your call of course, I'd prep it, prime as necessary, and paint it. Meaning: 1. Sand and scrape to remove irregularities and help new paint stick. 2. Prime as required, mainly related to having finish coat cover. Sand lightly when dry. 3. Take door down, and apply finish paint with it horizontal, or as close as possible to horizontal. Assuming you want good job.
HTH, J
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On 08/28/06 03:50 pm snipped-for-privacy@sme-online.com wrote:

I want to strip down to bare metal because
1. The previous paint job was horrible: horrendous brush marks and irregular patches suggesting rust underneath;
2. Where the top coat of paint is damaged, it's not too difficult to peel sizable pieces away from the underlying layer. So there doesn't seem to be any point in putting new paint over a previous bad prep job.
Perce
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Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

it), brushing it on thick, and leaving for about half hour, you should be getting results. The loose paint will wrinkle up and scrape away easily. It often takes two or three applications to get through multiple coats of paint. I dump the goo into a coffee can and often recycle it, as even with a lot of paint mixed in it will still work.
If you have a coat of primer that won't budge, leave it on and just sand it smoothe. Possible it might have a baked on coat of something. When down to the last traces of paint, I scrub with steel wool and wipe it off with steel wool, scrub with steel wool and mineral spirits, wipe that off. If there is rust, sand it. Prime right away (after drying) if it is a steel door. A wipe with denatured alc. helps dry it and make sure no oils or grease remain.
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Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

I would try removing the door for the stripping and put it on horses. It is quite easier to strip a horizonat surface than a vertical one.
When you buy stripper, look for a high concentration of methylene chloride. It should be one of the first ingredients on the list.
When applying the stuff, don't brush it on but sorth of dab it on with the brush. Avoid brushing it aroound. Just glop it on generously in one small area at at a time. This used more product and thats the idea, to maximize the quantitiy of product per given area thus maximizing effectiveness.
Rather than try to remove the gunk immediatly, wait carefully, testing the first area you treated. Use a sharp scraper to just check the corner until you see the paint bubbling or coming up.
If the stripper starts to dry out before it becomes effective, just dab some more on there and wait longer. Brush it around as little as possible if at all . Dabbing rather than brushing allows you to get more strippper on a given area. Do not try to remove the strippper or paint until a small test area gives way. Be patient until it is obvious that the undesireable paint has been affected by the stripper. then and only then you may proceed but only with areas that are obviously affected by the stripper. Clean up with mineral spirits.
Lawrence
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On 08/28/06 03:21 pm I wrote:

I was using Bix Original Stripper, as sold by Sherwin Williams.
I tried Klean-Strip KS-3 Premium, as recommended by the guy in my local Lowe's, and it is far, far better: in most places the old paint is coming off in sheets after 15 minutes or so.
Perce
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