On Friday 25 January 2013 23:22 Doug Miller wrote in alt.home.repair:
Except I'd like to actually cover the grubbiness underneath ;->>
I know the manufacturers assume I will be painting a perfect white wall...
After 45 years in the painting contracting business. I have seen everything from lead based paint to new modern synthetic based latex paints.
You will never find a paint that satisfies you completely.
buy your material, paint, and see what you have wrought. of course put a primer on new dry wall. And maybe over a repaint....But, painting is somewhat of a guessing game. Ask me.... I know.
So paint til you run out, then go buy more.
Tim Watts wrote in news:dchbt9-oa9.ln1 @squidward.local.dionic.net:
If the wall is soiled, it needs to be washed; stains that can't be washed off need to be covered with a stain-killing primer.
No, they assume you will be painting a properly prepped wall.
I haven't found any problems with tint variations for *years*. I use paint out of one gallon to touch up paint that came from another without *any* problems. ...even a year later. ;-)
OTOH, I hate 5gal pails. That's still not saving enough to buy the extra gallon. I'd rather spend the extra and get five brand new cans to store nails in. ;-)
"HeyBub" wrote in news:JcSdnVbgzP0ljp7MnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com:
Yeah, except for getting the PAM off your hands...
Disposable latex or nitrile gloves make cleanup even easier.
To the OP: this is a Bad Idea. Ignore it.
Likewise.
And no ability to see detail, either.
A painter once told me to store left-over paint cans upside-down so they don't skin over. I've done that and used paint a decade later to touch something up and couldn't see any difference.
With too much surface area. Stick with the smaller cans.
clipped
For people who like flat interior paint, semi looks like s--- and highlights ever bump or flaw in the surface.
snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Agreed. I haven't seen any problems *at all* with one can not matching another since the paint retailers went to computerized dispensers.
at best coverage is a guess estimate and with needing 4 gallons i would go with 5.
too many people dont wash walls before painting. i believe its critical to clean all surfaces thoroughy, remove all wall plates, proper prep is everything....
color. I measured (three walls have those tall vaulted ceilings) -- but as best I can tell -
You'll need about 4 gallons depending on just how you apply it. Given that the color is close, one coat should it if you don't miss any spots.
There are better places to buy paint though. Sometimes the local store will be cheaper and have better quality brands, service, advice.
Not sure I agree about surface area if you keep it fairly air tight and in moderate temps because then it could last a long time. That said, I like your suggestion of smaller cans just from a handling point of view.
On Saturday 26 January 2013 00:01 Doug Miller wrote in alt.home.repair:
I said "grubby" (what you get on an ancient wall after a good wash), not "Texas Chainsaw Massacre".
Tim Watts wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@squidward.local.dionic.net:
And if there are stains on the wall that cannot be washed off, you need to cover them with a stain-killing primer before applying the topcoat. The manufacturer's coverage claims are based on the assumption that the paint will be applied over a properly-prepared surface. If you don't do proper surface prep before painting, it's not the manufacturer's fault that you have to apply more paint to cover the flaws.
On Saturday 26 January 2013 14:51 Doug Miller wrote in alt.home.repair:
I'm sorry but that is not true.
Certain stains should be treated with a stain block - particulary oil or flue-tar seepage on masonry unlined chimneys and old subsequenty fixed roof leaks can cause staining on ceilings that is water mobile (ie bleeds through paint).
For day to day grubbiness [1], once the wall has been washed off, it is completely normal and reasonable not to do any special treatments before painting.
[1] Obviously any waxes (kids crayons), oil (from cooking or dare I say, hair oils) must be removed. I reiterate - I am just taking about general greyness that comes with old paintwork.We all know the manufacturers will stretch their claims to the limit. And I am saying, IME, it's best to roughly halve those claims in the real world. Paint often gets cheaper per unit quantity anyway, so it's better to buy 2l than 1l then have to go back for another 1l.
Not only surface area, but also head space; this is why, when you have paint left over from a five gallon bucket, you transfer it into the smallest container possible (usually a combination of gallon and quart buckets) for the longest shelf life.
Jon
I wouldn't think it matters if you keep it fairly tight and in moderate temps. I mean you can have a gallon can of paint go bad too if the temps are extreme in a short time. But I'm no authority on paint so if you both think it will go bad faster in a bigger can, who am I to dispute it. Again a paint store can confirm this.
Well if both of you think this, I won't dispute it even if I hesitate to agree. Again a paint store can confirm this.
-snip-
I worked on a 5 gallon bucket for 6-8 years & the last quart was as good as the first. It had one of those 1 1/2" pop-up spouts on it. The first time I finished up with it, I duct- taped it because it is just a slide-on fit. I forgot the next time, and all was good several years later, I never bothered again.
Maybe True Value sells magic paint. Maybe it is the coolness and humidity in my basement. Worked for me.
Jim
The surface area is higher for the given left-over paint. If it's in a one gallon container its surface area is far less. If you have four gallons left, what the hell did you buy a 5-gal pail for?
But people don't.
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