Overflowing Dishwasher

A GE Convertible Dishwasher - essentially a portable that's been set up as semi-permanent by having permanent hoses run to and from the sink - is at least 9 years old. If water is supplied to it, the water will fill the bottom of the tub until it overflows. This seems to happen no matter where the timer is set. It happens whether the washer is plugged in or not, and whether the door is latched or open. I can succesfully pump water out by advancing the timer to the drain cycle.
I suspect the inlet valve as described here:
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dishwasher/check/inletvalve.php
I've found valves for sale online that appear to be the same or close. These run about $30. I'm tempted to order one and try it. I'm sure the wife would prefer a new machine.
Any other theories as to what's wrong? Suggestions as to how to proceed?
TIA, -Scott
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SMcK wrote:

I had a similar issue with my dishwasher. It came with the house so I'm not sure how old it is. Inside my dishwasher, at the bottom, there is a covered floater. I took the cover off, cleaned it, cleaned the floater mechanism as best I could, then re-attached the cover. The dishwasher isn't over flowing now. Perhaps you have a similar rig in your dishwasher?
--
Chris

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I think Chris may have had a sticking over-fill switch? See item (3) of my post. However maybe it could be? that in some washers when that switch floats up it tells the washer it has a sufficient level of water to start washing? Seems unlikely however that there wouldn't also be some means of averting too much water going into the washer and causing overflow? I guess designs differ.
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Suggestions; Agree sounds like the inlet valve: 1) The inlet valve is sticking open or has grit in in it. IMO not likely the coil may be burnt out? Because AFIK they need voltage on them to open up and let water through! They are not very complicated to take apart. Disconnect all power, make a note of where the (usually two) leads attach. If you have a volt-ohmmeter test the coil by removing the one of the connections to see if you get continuity through its coil. I think you will see a reading. I just measured a spare one here and got 75 to 80 ohms. Although I'm not sure that this one is out of a dishwasher (maybe a clothes washer?) but AFIK very similar. 2) The contacts of the timer switch not opening up after the timing period for water to flow in. So the inlet valve stays open. 3) There is a high water switch which is supposed to float up and open if water level gets too high. And in ours shuts everything off. Coupla ideas anyway. Just to add resolve to a 'No need to replace'. We are on our second dishwasher in 30+ years (and boy did that second washer get a lot of use in our catering business!) with another used one someone gave me standing by in the storeroom for when the current one gets a lot noisier than now and/or its incipient signs of rust develop into leaks! Good luck.
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wrote:

Since the problem happens when power is off, it is almost for-sure the valve. O.P. could try reverse flushing the valve. Disconnect both ends. Connect a water source of some type to the outlet end while power is applied to the valve, so the water can go through it backwards. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as the outlet end may not be designed for full pressure. This is probably easiest to do after removing the valve - outside or in a laundry tub. Be careful about the water and electricity mix. Use a ground and don't let water spray on the outside of the valve during the test.
Bob
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