Oven will not heat up

[BM]

Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. What could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

[harry]

Check the oven timer on it is not in the "off" position first job.

[trader4]

It sounds like something shorted out, tripped the breaker, and then went open. Like for example a wire shorting to the cabinet. It would generate enough heat to melt it so it goes open and at the same time enough current so the breaker trips. You can reset the breaker now because what once caused it has vaporized.

If you have knowledge of electricity, some basic tools, a circuit schematic and a meter you can figure it out. If not, time to call a pro.

[WW]

Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. What could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

Also when you remove the (calrod) element check if there is a burn through visible. This is a common failure that trips the breaker. The element shorts to neutral and of course the element needs replacement. Some ovens have a pull out element and some do not. these require removing the back panel to remove the wiring. BE SURE BREAKER IS OFF FIRST FOR SAFETY. WW

[nestork]

BM: I've found that it's fairly common for the terminals going to the oven't bake element to burn off. The reason for this is that the oven element is used a lot more than the broil element, and the continuous heating up and cooling down of the bake element causes the terminals pushed onto the bake element to loosen up with time.

Whenever it comes to pushing terminals onto blade connectors, you want to both crimp the terminal onto the wire TIGHTLY, and ensure the terminal is TIGHT on the blade connector. There's something called the "million dollar crimp" which you should NOT see when hiring a appliance repair man to fix your appliance. That's where he grimaces and lets out an "UUGH" noise when crimping the terminal onto a wire, but really doesn't squeeze the crimping tool very hard. The result is a terminal that's not crimped onto the wire very tightly, and as that terminal loosens up, the gap between the wire and the terminal will fill up with metal oxides, and will get hot when electricity flows through that gap. Eventually, that connection will get so hot when electricity flows through it, that it'll burn both off where the wire going into the terminal, and the appliance will malfunction.

If you're using the services of a local handyman that charges you less than an appliance repair man, and you find that he's continuously replacing burnt off terminals, it's because he's cheating you. He's using that million dollar crimp technique to ensure your appliances are always on the blink cuz of burnt off terminals.

Pull the stove out and remove the back cover. Check the two wires going to the bake element terminals. I suspect one or both of them are burned off.

[WW]

BM: I've found that it's fairly common for the terminals going to the oven't bake element to burn off. The reason for this is that the oven element is used a lot more than the broil element, and the continuous heating up and cooling down of the bake element causes the terminals pushed onto the bake element to loosen up with time.

Whenever it comes to pushing terminals onto blade connectors, you want to both crimp the terminal onto the wire TIGHTLY, and ensure the terminal is TIGHT on the blade connector. There's something called the "million dollar crimp" which you should NOT see when hiring a appliance repair man to fix your appliance. That's where he grimaces and lets out an "UUGH" noise when crimping the terminal onto a wire, but really doesn't squeeze the crimping tool very hard. The result is a terminal that's not crimped onto the wire very tightly, and as that terminal loosens up, the gap between the wire and the terminal will fill up with metal oxides, and will get hot when electricity flows through that gap. Eventually, that connection will get so hot when electricity flows through it, that it'll burn both off where the wire going into the terminal, and the appliance will malfunction.

If you're using the services of a local handyman that charges you less than an appliance repair man, and you find that he's continuously replacing burnt off terminals, it's because he's cheating you. He's using that million dollar crimp technique to ensure your appliances are always on the blink cuz of burnt off terminals.

Pull the stove out and remove the back cover. Check the two wires going to the bake element terminals. I suspect one or both of them are burned off.

[nestork]

Kudos for a job well done, WW.

In my case, I have to maintain 21 fridges, 21 stoves, 3 washers and 3 dryers, and my two sister's appliances. I find that if you crimp a terminal on properly, you really don't need to solder it. A decent crimp will last longer than grandma, so it's hard to justify the extra time and labour of soldering those crimps.

I just wanted to let people know that if they're often finding wires burning off in their appliances, and the same person is maintaining those appliances, they might be the target of a scam. I figured I'd explain it, and what to look for so they'd know if their being scammed.

[Stormin Mormon]

I just wanted to let people know that if they're often finding wires burning off in their appliances, and the same person is maintaining those appliances, they might be the target of a scam. I figured I'd explain it, and what to look for so they'd know if their being scammed.

[BM]

harry wrote in news:6bb1eb4a-d20f-4ef6-a5a1- [e-mail]:

its not the timer, it is offf. plus the broiler does not work

[nestork]

Next step:

1. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a relatively short area like an inch or two. Use a flashlight to check for any anomolies along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it feeling for areas that are very rough. If you don't find anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. It will have TWO 50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. If you have a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp fuses in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of them. That's done for safety reasons.

2. If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug the stove as well so that you can move it where you have unfettered access to the back panel.

1. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the stove, and remove that cover.

2. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be visible. Look for a burnt off wire there.

1. It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the oven temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the bake element terminals.

[BM]

nestork wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. if I replace that unit I should be good to go? I hope

[trader4]

anter.com:

Maybe. But here is the risk. Without the skills to work on electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else is wrong. The correct procedure is to figure out if anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. It could have failed on it's own. Or it could have failed because something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a short that caused an overload and burned up the board. And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new board could burn up too. If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't be so bad. But when you see what a new board actually costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. Hell, when you see what that board costs and depending on the age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.

[Ralph Mowery]

It seems that is the way it is for many things. The replacement parts cost a big percentage of just replacing the whole unit.

I still think of the deal that the Commodor computer company had years ago. They wold fix any computer for about $ 75. When it got the the repair place, they would open it up and replace the whole insides with a board that cost them about $ 50. I just don't remember what the computer cost back then.

[trader4]

I don;t know how it works right now, but about 10 years ago I had my Tivo replaced. They charged a flat $100. I sent my old one in and they sent me a refurbished one. I thought that was a fair deal.

[hrhofmann]

ybanter.com:

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? Also,does the schematic show the printed board? If you can trace the burned area on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where to look for the problem that caused the burn.

[nestork]

I would maybe find out what the part number of the board is and Google it.

If you buy it from the factory authorized repair depot, it's going to cost an arm and a leg.

If you buy it from any appliance parts shop, it's going to be expensive.

If you buy it online, you might get it pretty cheap.

That's because a lot of these electronic components are made in China and Singapore and Malaysia, and some online vendors buy those same parts from the manufacturers and sell them online here in North America for much less.

I paid $60 for a heater relay for a Maytag front loading dryer at my local Reliable Part store cuz the Maytag factory authorized service depot wanted over $100 for it. Then I bought two more just like it online for $12 each. They both even had the Maytag logo printed on them. I fully expect they came from the same factory in Asia that makes them for Maytag.

[Bob]

" [e-mail]" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

here are photos of the control unit. is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater but the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work? even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it still needs to be replaced, correct?

[trader4]

- [e-mail]:

I don't see any photos. If you tried to post them directly here, you can;t, because it's not a newsgroup that supports pics.

Yes

Yes. The only issue is if that "something else" caused it and still exists and you put in a new control panel, you could burn out the new one as soon as you turn it on.

[Bob]

" [e-mail]" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

where would i post the photos? is it also possible that the problem is just in the control panel?

[trader4]

[e-mail]:

IDK, but I'm sure others will give suggestions. Or you could google for "free picture hosting" etc

quoted text -

Sure it could be just the panel. I'd say it's 50-50.