oven takes forever to heat up


I have a Kenmore gas oven, about 10 years old. Usually, but not always, it takes a loooong time to reach the set oven temperature - like 30 min. to get to 350. My wife thinks she can "fool it" by putting in on broil first, then switching over to bake. She may even be right. It seems to able to reach and maintain any temperature, it just takes a long time. Appreciate any ideas on how to diagnose/fix it. Thanks, -- H
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On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 11:01:40 -0800 (PST), Heathcliff

When you look at the flame, is flame coming from every port along the whole thing?
If one hole is clogged with dirt, the flame won't spread beyond that whole, which might disable a whole big section of burner.
Otherwise, if you see as many flames as you should and they are as big and the right color that they should be (yellow tipped with blue, I think, or maybe mostly blue. I don't know.), you must be getting enough heat, so if you're not, the flames must be wrong.
There is an adjustment for air, but I don't think it ever needs resetting. I wouldn't touch it. I think the only thing that ever needs to be done is cleaning.
A lot of people don't seem to realize that with gas ovens and stoves, each whole burner comes out for cleaning. The gas comes in at one end, and the cast iron burner rests on something at the other end. After you've checked out the flame, lift the front end it a little, pull a little, and the whole thing comes out. Clean each hole with a toothpick, eespecially holes near the border between working and not working. And maybe after that a brush, though I'm not that picky and I only use the toothpick.
This is why gas stoves can last forever.
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On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:46:52 -0500, mm wrote:

Kind-of :-) I had some friends with one from the 1920s - it was still running more-or-less, but a lot of the cast metal parts were so corroded* that it was a bit of a pig to light the thing, and spares were (obviously) unobtainable and had been for decades. In the end I think it had to come out because they couldn't get insurance on the property because of it.
* I'm not sure if that was just from moisture - doesn't unlit gas cause inherent corrosion problems? Maybe I'm misremembering there, though.
cheers
Jules
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The ignitor could be the culprit. If it's defective, it will glow red, but it will not generate enough current to turn on the gas valve for the oven, or it might shut the gas off too soon. A good indicator its the ignitor is when you turn the oven on, it takes a while before the ignitor glows red.
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This morning I took off the oven bottom plate so I could observe the burner. When I turned the oven on, the ignitor worked fine, and the burner worked fine (no clogs) but the gas supply was weird. The flame came on full blast for just a few seconds, then went to a minimal level for half a minute or so, then repeated that cycle a couple times. Then, it went into an even weirder mode where where the flame level was oscillating between low and medium, making a ft-ft-ft sound. So, I can see why it is so slow to heat up - the flame does not stay at a high level. But, why does that happen? -- H
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On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:46:01 -0800 (PST), Heathcliff

If no one knows here, someone still knows, I'm sure. That ft ft ft and the other symptoms have got to be very distinctive. I think I even saw ft ft ft some place many years ago.
P&M
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Thanks, I am going to try RepairClinic.com, they have been good to me before. -- H
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Reporting the oven is fixed. The RepairClinic folks convinced me it was the ignitor. I had thought it would be the gas valve, based on the symptoms described above. But the expert there said that ignitors wear out and the poor signal they send to the gas valve causes it to behave erratically. So I bought a replacement ignitor from them and installed it today. Voila the oven heated to 350 in 6 minutes flat.
There were several glitches along the way. The dang connector on the new unit would not mate with the old one, so I had to clip the wires and wire nut them together. (The RepairClinic site actually forewarned about this and suggested ordering the special heat resistant wire nuts at the same time, glad I did.) The burner tube had a weird corrosion hole in it near the ignitor. At first I thought it looked like there had been arcing there, but I don't see how that could have happened, especially without drawing attention to itself. I had to kluge a fix for the hole involving a large-headed sheet metal screw, wired into place to hold it there, kind of plugging it. Lastly it was impossible to install the new ignitor - just one of those situations where you can't line it up, thread the screws through and start them into the threaded holes behind, working at arm's length and no room for your fingers and you can't see what the heck you're doing. I had to clip metal out of the ignitor bracket with wirecutters to turn the holes into open slots, so I could start the screws first, slide the ignitor in, then tighten them down. But all's well that ends well.
No connection to RepairClinic, but a happy and admiring customer. Free good advice with your parts. -- H
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Reporting the oven is fixed. The RepairClinic folks convinced me it was the ignitor.
No connection to RepairClinic, but a happy and admiring customer. Free good advice with your parts. -- H
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Good for you! I've used www.Repairclinic.com with good results also. Replacing the igniter is easier that the gas valve, maybe cheaper too.
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