Outlets/switches lfush with new drywall?

[RicodJour]

A big box store or electrical supply house will have extensions for various depths. You may have to trim it.

R

[DanG]

The proper thing to do would be to remove the drywall around the receps and switches, move the boxes out to where they belong, re-rock.

It is possible to buy extra long machine screws to hold the receps, but the recep ears should be supported on stacked washers, curled #12, or some other ferrule type extender to support the receps when you go to plug something in. Code wants that gap between the finish face of the rock and the front of the rough in box filled with a UL approved extender. I can't find a picture of one, I call them beer can extension rings, they are metal and very thin just like a beer can. They are made to protect the paneling/plywood/void condition from finish wall to rough in box. These extension rings may not be Borg items.

(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) [e-mail]

[Airkings]

I installed 5/8" drywall in my garage, and of course cut out spaces for the existing outlets and switches. The outlets were flush with the studs, so now are recessed in the drywall. Are there "extenders" or something I can put on the boxes so the switches and outlets can be made flush with the drywall surface? Or how do I do that?

[Wes Stewart]

[ameijers]

Uh, yeah, they are Borg items, and they are now made of plastic. I had to install a couple in this place after I bought it, and have 1 more to install in garage ceiling on door opener outlet, once I get around to buying a ladder that tall. Long screws come with it. No stacked washers or whatever are needed- the ears of the extender sit in front of the drywall, catch the ears of the outlet, and the long screws pull the whole thing tight against the drywall and firm to the box. If the box and drywall are solid, the install is solid. (at least as solid as an old-work box would be.)

aem sends....