OT Who changes their motor oil at 3000 miles?

Page 4 of 8  


I have not read all the replies , and may not, so if I repeat pardon me.
I think they all do the 3K because most of them offer free top-offs for the period of time between scheduled changes.
Colbyt
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you are using ANY oil between 3,000 mile oil changes, you got a serious problem somewhere. Usually, they leave the cap off, or the drain plug loose, and it's just a way for them to CYA.
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My Nissan can go 6K with no usage. The wife's 97 Chevy does seem to lose or burn some before 3K.
Guess what I am buying when I replace the 96 Nissan in 5-8 years.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:14:14 -0700, "Steve B"

I'd agree with you have a problem - but not necessarily a SERIOUS problem. A car can still pass e-test and not harm the cat with consumption of 1 quart per 1500 miles (which used to be considered "normal")
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 24 Aug 2011 22:02:32 -0400, Metspitzer wrote:

I use Pennzoil 5w30 in a Trailblazer with 90k on it. Every 3k miles since the breakin oil was removed. Recently had the plugs changed, first time since new. Compression test each cyl. All 6 (4.2L inline 6 Vortec 275 HP 10:1 compression ratio) were within factory specs. Also use a Fram high density filter. Oil pressure is 41 PSI at hot idle, 70 PSI at 2k rpm. The motor is so quiet it's hard to tell if it's running. The factory 'change engine oil' light comes on each 5k miles after reset. As far as I'm concerned that 3k oil change rule is worth following.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Why? My Buick was the same way, except I changed oil at 7500. In the 130,000 miles I had the car that would be 17 oil changes. Following your method, I'd had had the oil changed 43 times and the results are the same. At $30 a pop, I'm $780 ahead.
I imagine I could have kept it longer, but the car had other issues and I gave it away to may grandson. Damned engine ran perfect though.
I've also owned a couple of Sonatas. The dealer (I don't use dealer service in general) recommends fuel injection service every year for $129. If I did that on all my fuel injected cars in the past say, 20 years, I've have spent thousands of needless dollars. I've never had an FI problem. So, 2 cars at $129 for 20 years, the shop would have $5100 of my money and I'd have no gain.
Preventative maintenance is important, but should be done with sensibility.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/25/2011 10:19 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Click and Clack call FI cleaning 'wallet cleaning'. Unless the engine is running crappy, the injectors are already clean enough. Yeah, I know, the computer compensates up to a point. Trip odometers are wonderful- reset at every fillup, and if there is a change in MPG, it should jump right out at you. When mine starts drifting down half an mpg or so, I know it is time to dig out the compressor and top off the tires.
--
aem sends...


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I try to. Recently I haven't succeeded often.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/24/2011 9:02 PM, Metspitzer wrote:

Good advice. Oil SHOULD be changed every 3000 miles.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

What is the source of this wisdom?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/26/2011 11:57 AM, ed_h wrote:

dirt. The basic design of the engine has not changed. Aluminum bearings (basically) aluminum pistons, and cast iron crank and cylinders. Oil gets dirty., doesn't matter how much the oil costs, or how fancy the vehicle is. The oil still gets dirty in about 3000 miles. (given an approximate 5 quart capacity). Larger sumps can go proportionally longer.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

The big killer is combustion byproducts. Since engines are a lot cleaner burning than they once were, this is reduced somewhat. The manuals on my cars recommend 7500mi for light service and 3000mi for severe duty. Look up the meaning of "severe duty" and it includes pretty much everything except non-stop interstate driving in 70F, dry, weather.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

This is true! Or 'light service' could be described as 7,500 miles, all run in one 'trip', on a dyno, mounted in a clean room. Not 'real world usage...
Rant mode on:
Modern conventional oil's don't 'break down' in short trip usage, but rapidly becomes more and more contaminated with water and acids... leading to bearing deterioration, sludge issues, and hardening of seals. Note that modern oils are still wonderful lubricants even after being run well beyond their recommended change intervals... it's contaminates that are the issue. (Dirt becomes more of an issue if the oil is run long enough cause a filter bypass to open, or if you get a bum oil or air filter. Modern oil and air filters are for the most part very good.)
If your 'average' trip is on the order of more than 20 min or so, oil will routinely reach sufficient temperatures, and maintain them long enough too boil off most (but not all) contaminates. These are eliminated by the PCV. For 'long' trips, yes, 5 or 6 thousand miles change intervals are fine.
But if your normal usage is short (or dusty) trips, contaminates rapidly become more and more concentrated. It's here where you should do changes every 3,000 miles, OR 90 DAYS, which ever comes first! 90 days as in actually marking it on the calendar, and ignoring the odometer unless it's racked up over 3k miles!
Remember, that water and acid are continuously at work, even when the vehicle is just sitting parked. (Expensive synthetic oils contaminate just like conventional's by the way.) 3k change intervals also minimize dirt issues in the event you happen on a a bad oil or air filter too... it happens on occasion.
If you don't care about the car, or trade every couple of years, run it as long as you want! On the other hand, you can get a LOT of dependable service out of most any engine by regularly changing oil. (Do the coolant every year too... that's a rant for another day.)
Four oil changes a year isn't that big a deal...
Rant off.
Erik
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Rant all you want, but the truth does not bear you out. Yes, some people should change at 3000 miles, but most would be wasting their money. Some others should change at 5000 miles. I know of plenty of cars in the 100,000 to 200,000 mile range with no engine problems at higher intervals. The people that warranty my engine for 100,000 miles would not tell me to change at 75000 miles if it was going to cost them money.
Sorry, you were right 40 years ago, but not in 2011.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Are you saying things have changed in a mere forty years?
Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote

Yes. My dipstick still works but I don't use it as often.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Certainly, having just had our 40th anniversary, I can attest that dipstick usage changes over 40 years. ;-)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote

But the last use was still as good as the first!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Maxwell House?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 17:59:50 -0500, " snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"

Good to the last ounce.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.