OT Who changes their motor oil at 3000 miles?

Page 1 of 8  
All the oil change places still put 3000 in the window sticker.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Metspitzer wrote:

Hmmm, I do every 10K Kms.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My truck has a built in feature that puts a message up on the dash readout when it's time to change oil. The owners manual says that the message is based on a lot of things, including length of trips, temperature, and driving habits, and to change oil when I get the message, or at 7000 miles, whichever is sooner. The message typically pops up at around 6000-7500 miles.
The factory dealer's service department still puts on the 3000 mile sticker, though.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Same with my Durango. Oil change light has been coming on around 7000 miles for the past three years. This last time, it came on at 3000. Driving patterns haven't changed - mostly highway. Wonder if one of the factors is total mileage on the vehicle? Doing it at 3000 gets expensive and unnecessary when you use a full synthetic.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Daughter's new Civic comes on at about 8000km (5000 miles)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I do at 3,000. Been around 6 years since I read the manual but IIRC it give 3,000 for 'severe service'. Since most of my driving is only 4 miles to town and 4 back that certainly is sever service as it never gets properly warmed up.
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

4 miles should be enough to heat up the exhaust well. Probably. Can't say I ever checked it.
--Vic
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Never have had to fix any car exhausts but to keep SWMBO happy I chnge cars often. Now my truck....I need to replace the whole thing again. Everything aft of the muffler stub is gone...as in dropped off somewhere on the road. This is the second time for it and I bought it used. Currently at 150,000
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:56:09 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

Most cars come with stainless exhausts now - and those that don't - put them on at first replacement. My first Aerostar exhaust went at about 30 months - the replacement stainless lasted untill the guy I sold it to scrapped it at 300,000km, about 15 years or so later.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 20:05:48 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

My SS exhaust went after 9 years (<90K miles). Salt is a bitch.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:
-snip-

I just got a rumble in my 2001 Impala at 126K & went to see when the last time I had replaced the exhaust system. Never. [I did get a muffler 5 years ago] So I crawl under to see what I'm up against. I need the $6 chunk of pipe that adapted from the muffler to the exhaust. [and a rubber donut, and a hanger]
That's another one of those un-noticed advantages of our 'overpriced' modern cars.
How many 'routine maintenance' jobs are no longer necessary- oil intervals, spark plug intervals, points, condensers, tires, batteries, exhaust systems. . .. .?
Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Used to do spring and fall full tune-ups to keep mine solid. You forgot carb choke adjustment. That all ended in '91 when I bought an '88 Celebrity with 2.8. Never picked up my timing light or dwell meter again. World of difference after electronics and fuel injection. Nobody much talks about, but I guess metallurgy is the biggest contributor to engine longevity, not newer oils. Not needing valve jobs and no cylinder blow-by makes me think that. You could keep the old ones tuned and change the oil every 2000 miles, but valves and rings/walls would go bad before 100k miles. At least that was my experience.
--Vic
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 06:58:17 -0500, Vic Smith

The metalurgy has not advanced very much at all over the last 30 years - and in some cases has gone backwards. The newer oils, in many cases, are no "better" than the old oils - in some ways, even worse (less EP additives, for instance), but the engines last longer because of the removal of lead and all the required dispersant additives from the fuel, and the much better fuel control of EFI. A lot less acid buildup in the oil, and a lot less fuel dilution of the oil, which translates to a lot less oxidation of the oil - less carbon buildup in the oil, less corrosion of bearings and rings, less varnish build-up etc.
As for tolerances, the bearing clearances, in absolute terms, have also not changed - but the consistancy and surface finish have improved a lot. Both on bearings/journals, cyls/rings, and combustion chambers. This means a LOT less wear - Untill the additive package in the oil is exhausted, allowing the oil to oxidize and the bearings etc to etch -and the rings to stick, and sludge to block the oil galleries, and all the other nasty stuff that Chrysler, Honda, and Toyota had to deal with over the last decade with the "coking" problems that have been in the news.
The ONLY thing that causes those problems is failure to maintain oil quality - either inferior oil in the first place, leaving the oil in too long, or both.
Theinfamous 2.6 liter Mitsubishi "hemi" in chrysler products a number of years ago did not have oil burning or engine rattling (timing chain ) problems if the oil was changed often enough. The Chrysler 2.7 V6 did not have coking problems and pre-mature failure issues if the oil was changed "often enough" Likewize with Toyota and Honda.
If you drove the car under what the manual identifies as "severe conditions" (90% of urban north american drivers do) and went by the "normal" schedule, you had grief - almost guaranteed.
Friends working in all 3 dealerships report that the've never seen an "overmaintained" vehicle in for any of those issues. NEVER.
"Overmaintained" meaning a minimum of 2 oil changes a year and a maximum of 6000km per oil change.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

You can pretty much cont on being able to drive 200,000km on a new car with nothing more than tires, brakes, oil changes,a serpentine belt and one set of spark plugs - if you put the miles on fast enough.
Possibly a couple of wheel bearings or CV joints, and a timing belt if it has one. Even the hoses often last that long.
But if that car has not had preventative maintenance, anyone buying it at that point can be in for a whole world of hurt.
Without antifreeze service, the rad is most likely finished. The fuel pump is on borrowed time if the fuel filter has never been changed - the transmission is ready to die if the fluid has never been changed - it will likely need all the front end joints and rubbers replaced, and if the oil has not been changed on an "adequate" schedule the chain tensioners (if it has a timing chain) are "done" and the valve lash adjusters and variable valve timing apparatus are likely ready to call it a day any time as well. If the plugs were not changed on time it might need a new catalytic converter to pass the E-Test too.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/26/2011 8:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

The removal of lead from Gasoline helped both oil life and exhaust system life. Plus, a hot catalytic converter upstream helps also.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/26/2011 7:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

They are not stainless, they are aluminized steel. Stainless is a terrible material for exhaust systems. Cracks too easy.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:05:06 -0500, Steve Barker

No, aluminized steel is eighties technology. Original exhaust on the '96 Mystique was stainless. Exhaust on my 2002 PT Cruiser is stainless. Exhaust on my daughter's Civic is stainless. Virtually every downpipe in the last 20 years is stainless.
Every exhaust I've replaced on my vehicles in the last 20+ years has been replaced with stainless
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

There ARE stainless steel exhaust systems available. I have personal experience with their application for at least 15 years now. In my 29 years experience as a fleet mechanic, supervisor, and manager, I have observed no tendency for stainless exhaust systems to crack at any greater frequency than non-stainless systems. An appropriate type of stainless steel is an excellent material for exhaust systems.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I too...for me that's half a year of driving.
I had to join the "Lifetime Oil Change" program at my mechanic, which I think was $189, because the Honda Element is the first car I've ever had where I can't change my own oil. (The filter is inaccessible without ramps or being 6'8".) They're happy to do it every four months but I think that's absurd. They'll lose a bundle on me as I keep cars 15-17 years.
Art
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I do the short trip thing too, and my exhaust generally lasts over 200,000 km - or over 12 years.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.