OT - Voltage Drop In Trailer Wiring

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wrote:

It is not accepted in Canada either - don't know about the USA.

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try connecting a positive wire to a positive socket connection for he tail light .....
your problem is likely a bad plug assembly, a direct connection from the ba ttery positive should brighten things.....
in fact the one connection will likely brighten all lights
trailer plugs are cheap, you could make up a test plug with light bulbs, an d plug it into the tow vehicle......
or make up a test tow vehicle end connection to power the trailer, add a sw itch or two to duplicate brake lights etc
but i would still suggest rewiring the total trailer, you will find trouble s, corroded contacts, poor connections, and in the case of one trailer i wo rked on the main traler wire insulation was badly worn, in a hidden area it would of shorted and taken out all trailer lights..... found when pulling new cable.
if you rewire go at least one size heavier......
if the wire is 16 gauge, go to 14 gauge, it will be stiffer, but work bette r...... of course use straded
the last trailer i worked on, the trailers plug assembly connected inside a small metal box on the frame. taking the cover off revealed its backside w as rotted out, allowing water coirrosion of the connections....'the damage wasdnt visible from the outside
you should seal all crimps with blobs of silicone caulk all around every co nnection so water cant get at them....
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bob haller wrote:

Hi, Dielectric Si grease is even better.
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Thanks for the suggestions. The most that will happen this week will be a possible test with an external 12 V source, or perhaps a different tow vehicle if I can get someone with a flat four connector to stop over. That would at least eliminate my tow vehicle as the issue.
The trip to my daughter's college is on Wednesday and as long as everything is working at this point, I'm not messing with any wiring on the trailer or tow vehicle so soon before the trip.
Thanks again.
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On Mon, 19 Aug 2013 13:31:30 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

One thing that you need to remember when testing trailer lights. If the lights go "wonky" when you use the signals you have a bad ground - period. Signals on, tail lights off, and side markers glowing with the signal? Bad ground. Period. Bad TRAILER ground - not bad lamp ground, most likely - and if it is a bad lamp ground it will be on the lamp that causes the interaction.. If the signal can't get a good ground it will back feed through the tail lamp filament, which will eventually find a ground through the tail lights of the tow vehicle - making the low wattage side markers glow.
If there is no interaction between signals and other lamps you can be 99.999% sure it is NOT a ground problem. If there is interaction, 99.9999% sure it is.
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On 08/19/2013 06:31 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What happened with the LED panel idea? There was one that plugged in like a bulb to feed an array of what looked like a dozen or so LEDs.
Jon
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The LED lens is still a viable option. I didn't have time to get a set via mail order nor call the "trailer stores" in my area, mainly because they are not that close to me. I've been too busy working, getting ready to move my daughter and testing the trailer wiring to drive to one of the 2 places that might carry the replacement lens. I didn't even bother to call because I knew I wouldn't have time to go buy them. I'll call when I get back.
I did check 2 local auto stores but all they carried was the 1157 LED bulbs, which didn't work out so well.
BTW...my daughter's move went fine. She's in her apartment and I'm taking the long way home, stopping to visit some old friends for a day or two.
I'll update the LED lens situation after I get a set to try.
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