Good suggestion. That can work often, but what I had in mind was the
last pair I bought, and the guy lived 17 miles away. I really enjoyed
the drive the first time (stopped at a park fair on the way back), but
woudln't the second.
You're right, it's good. I'll remember it.
But in my most recent case they were on Craigslist for $10. If they
were more money I might bargain on the phone, but once I've driven
there, he knows I'm ready to pay what he asks. Even at a hamfest, if
I don't bargain when I first see the item, and I leave and come back a
half hour, most vendors figure the buyer is pretty serious and they
won't need to lower the price.
I usually don't test things and I've only gotten burned twice in 30
years. Plus it was this guy who told me how to test them. I could
have stopped and tested with my cell then and there, before I left,
but I trust him. **
And they're worth more than $10. They're one step bigger than the
set*** which worked great, I know they're worth it. ***Even when one
of them broke, the sound was much better with only one of them, than
with both of the $21 NIB Jensen I replaced them with. After 5 days
I couldn't stand the cheap ones anymore and went back to the one good
one, until I have time to put in the new ones.
**And when I buy a used car, I don't ask the seller what condition it
is in because I don't want to put a stumbling block before the blind;
that is, I don't want to make a liar out of him, or tempt him to lie.
And since i can't totally rely on the answer anyhow, I do without it.
I've only bought 6 cars in 45 years but I've never been burned. Most
have gone the first two years without any repairs.
Well, On the People's Court, the judge keeps saying that the
compensable value of used items is what you would get at a yard sale,
but a) I'm not positive she's right, b) if she is right, I don't think
it's the right value anymore, and c) perhaps she doesn't realize how
cheaply things go at yard sales. I think c is part of it because
what she awards for used things is often 30%, more if they're pretty
new, even for things that truly wear out. Try to sell for that price
at a yard sale.
I think the proper value is what you would get on Ebay or craigslist
or, earlier, from an ad in the want-ads. Where the people seeing the
ad and inquiring really want the item. People at yard sales don't
know what will be for sale and they didn't come to buy any particular
thing, and it takes the bearest smidgen of extra effort to inquire
about a price (if it's not marked), and the seller knows that and
can't tell if they really need something or want it just in case, or
'cause it's cute. So the price at a yard sale is often 5 or 10% of
the new price, while the price on ebay is 25 to 50%
Heck, the Huawei cell phone that was selling at retail for $100 I paid
$50 for 3 or 4 years ago and eBay tells me I can still sell it for
$30. At a yard sale, it would be worth what? $5?
I think the judge must be mixing want-ads with yard sales.
OTOH, you might have still been in the area and wanted to give him a
final chance to get rid of it before he decides he'll have to have it
buried with him. A friend liked to say, when all hope was lost,
"Perhaps your widow will be more reasonable at the estate sale..."
Only one serious burn: an electronic keyboard at a church rummage sale.
The minister himself swore it was working. $100, which was a really
good price at the time. Unfortunately the bastard lied -- the power
supply was burned out. Fortunately my son had a spare PC power supply
that worked, and he was the one the keyboard was for. Destroyed my
faith (ha!) in organized religion, it did!
Mostly we assume that stuff is broken and pay accordingly. Hubby is
good at fixing things. Long ago we got my 1960 Ducati for $50 because
the guy had set the timing exactly wrong and it wouldn't start.
Heretofore I've bought only fairly old cars, such that I could pretty
much tell what was wrong with them, and I've been right. This is my
first experience at buying a newish car (2014 or 15 Corolla -- starting
serious shopping next week) for significant money and I'm not feeling at
all comfy about it.
People who don't actually shop at yard sales haven't a clue. Neither do
well-to-do sellers who think their castoffs should go for 10-25% less
than they paid.
What does the IRS allow for charitable contributions? Something that
allows you to contribute stuff you bought at a yard sale and make a
profit, I just don't know how much; we haven't itemized for decades,
and then only because we had a mortgage and paid California income taxes.
That's what's nice about yardsale shopping -- you never know what you'll
come home with!
She's just clueless.
The insurance companies get off easy when they "make whole" the victims
of their insureds. Actual 'making whole' for a totaled car = somebody
finds an exact duplicate (or satisfactorily similar car approved by the
victim) of the totaled car and delivers it with a full tank to the
home/office of the victim. Yeah, like that's gonna happen!
That's a good line too. I'll use it.
Actually, I go to a lot of hamfests, and lately there have been some
old coots selling off their stuff, so they can move to a smaller place
And twice in the last year, there have been tables for guys selling
someone's stuff, with the money going to his recent widow. Usually
the belong to the same ham radio club, or a radio collectors club.
And one of them was something with a phone jack, just a skeleton of
one, a U-shaped heavy wire with 4 spring contacts, that was totally
broken off but I didn't know enough to notice it was missing. And
just as I was typing my previous post it occurred to me that I could
solder on a wire with a jack attached. Now if I can only remember
what that thing was and where I put it. It was small, I remember
that. (That's why the jack was so small and light.)
That's pretty bad.
This story and something below reminds me of the time I was trying to
sell one of those metal shelves that attach via the trailer hitch**
receiver, as wide as the car and 15" or so deep. So a woman calls
and she talks a lot about how much she and her husband and kids will
use it for camping, and she's going to have her husband call me for
the final decision, and all of a sudden she says her husband is a
minister and I could donate it to the church and deduct what I would
have sold it for. And of course since I was in the 30 or 35%
bracket, I would only get a third of what it was worth, and she hadn't
said a thing before about using it for church activities. I said I
wouldn't do that and the husband never called.
**One time I put 24 pieces of sod on it and then opened the door to
get in, and the car bent and I couldn't shut the door. A Lebaron
convertible. I should have climbed in over the door, but I put some
of the sod on the back seat, which was probably better for the car. It
sprang back to shape.
So why are you doing it?
I have a friend who comments on that, that some of the people she
knows expect far too much for things they sell. We are sort of in
the same circles but she's from Baltimore and knows 30x as many people
as I do. And I guess she knows how much they charge for things. I
remember, there used to be an email newsletter we both read and we'd
talk about the prices, and they confirmed what she already had learned
I don't know. I save the receipts and then never itemize my
deductions. The IRS used to be much more liberal, too liberal. They
let Goodwill give people blank receipts so they fill in their own
price, and people donating cars would value them much more than they
were worth. Although a car I had towed away 13 years ago the tow
truck driver looked at all the parts I removed (because my newer car
was similar) and he said, "I can't give you a receipt.". I give the
guy credit for the that. I just said Okay, but I really should have
told him I was favorably impressed with his policy.
She seems down to earth a lot of the time, but you may be right about
It's totally nonproductive, just an enjoyable -- for you -- exit line.
We used to go to the one at TRW in El Segundo (?) after they added
computer stuff. Interesting place because of the old-fart hamstuff.
Also the ACP swap meet on Edinger in the Irvine area. Haven't gone to
either since 1999, and they probably don't exist any more.
There's a monthly swap meet behind a local hardwood store for guys
selling antique tools for outrageous prices. Went once.
We put two 90cc motorcycles VERTICALLY in the back of our 1960 Ford
station wagon. They were just tall enough that the frame compressed the
seats so they stood up nicely with the window open and the tailgate down.
Because I never want to fix anything on a car ever again EVER. I love
tools, I just don't want to use them. The kids' ancient Toyotas were
bulletproof and had to be dragged kicking and screaming to the wrecking
yard when they wanted newer cars. I'm willing to pay money to avoid
There's a difference between "can" and "want to". Lawn (area containing
grass and weeds) and gardening is fine, fixing crap is not. I've solved
enough problems over my lifetime, now somebody else can do it for me!
Well, mostly, I guess. I need to fight my instincts...
Does your phone have a socket for plugging in wired (i.e. non-bluetooth)
headphones? If so, the input cable for the computer speakers - which
will have a 3.5mm stereo jack on the end of it - will plug into *that*.
The speakers will still need external power though - either mains or
USB, depending on the design. Unless you or the seller can provide that
power, the speakers won't play the phone's output and you won't be able
to test them.
I would be willing in most places to ask to use the wall current. This
last one was a garage sale and his garage was packed full of stuff he
sells on craiglist and ebay, but he still had a receptacle handy. (He
used it while I was there for something.)
At a store I would just find an outlet and plug it in without asking.
If they complained, I'd apologize. If they complained that I might
start a fire, I'd say they shouldn't sell things that start fires and
better at their store than at my house. But normally no one would
Even at a yard sale, many people have an outdoor outlet. For $10
speakers I wouldn't look but for $50, I probably would. There's a
house which last summer had loads of electronic things, black things
the same width that stack on each other, but various brands. Too much
for one household, and eventually the thought came that it was stolen
stuff, so I didn't go back. Later I thought I should have the police
check it out, serial number and all that, but the summer and the yard
sale were over. I wonder if they're doing it this year. Anyone
who would sell stolen stuff would sell stuff that didn't work, no
returns. Not that I'm sure anything was stolen. Maybe friends
brought things to sell.
On Saturday, June 11, 2016 at 3:38:33 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
Here ya go...
Cell Phone connected to unpowered, unamplified speakers.
Can you hear them? ;-)
Cell Phone connected to powered amplifier/sub-woofer
They should sound louder and fuller now. ;-)
You should be able to test the speakers alone with just the cell phone
but expect the volume to be fairly low. However, I wouldn't buy a set
of powered speakers without testing the amplifier/sub-woofer and for
that you are going to need power.
You could bring a 12V jump-start pack and an inverter. Just sayin'
On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 16:43:58 -0400, burfordTjustice
Others beat me to it. In case you coudln't figure it out, the purpose
of the post was to inquire or inform about testing computer speakers
with a cell phone. Once I've broached the subject, it would be
deficient to suggest it without also suggesting people bring an
adapter when going out shopping, if it's true that one might be
Much easier to use a 9v battery. "
I haven't seen computer speakers that run on
batteries since the CLINTON era. Nowadays
they all run on AC, and increasing percentages
run off a USB port on your PC or Mac.
On Sat, 11 Jun 2016 20:47:16 -0500, Paul in Houston TX
When the computer speakers have one speaker that plugs into the sound
card and another speaker that plugs into the first speaker, is there a
convention about whether the first speaker is left or right?
Micky wrote: "When the computer speakers have one speaker that plugs
into the sound card and another speaker that plugs into the first speaker,
is there a convention about whether the first speaker is left or right?
Some, but not all, computer pairs have "(L)eft"
and "(R)ight" subtly marked somewhere on the
back or bottom of the cabinets. Some might contain
a "L" or "R" in the model#. All depends on the
I own the Finlandia Surround test CD, from which I have
ripped the Channel ID track to every portable device I
own. I can plug it into anything I'm testing - desktop PC
speakers, a home theater, even an outdoor festival PA,
and that track has never let me down.
On 6/12/2016 5:55 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
What's wrong with opening the "sound panel" applet and setting the
balance to the far left (or right) and noticing "where" the
sound goes? I do this with headphones/earbuds, desktop speakers,
etc. all the time (easier than trying to read the little L and
R molded in or printed on the plastic).
[Actually, I have several cheap pairs of earbuds that came
with optional "decorative" colored "rings" that you could
clip on the individual ear buds. The thinking, apparently,
was to make the boring white earbuds flashier -- put a bit
or red, blue, yellow, etc. on them. But, they apparently
thought you'd put the same color on EACH as they provided two if
each color! I, instead, elected to put a green and red on
so I could quickly/easily sort out which is which when putting
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