OT Survey

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wrote:

I manage my own and have managed for others, single family homes for over 25 years while being a license real estate broker. I used to work with clients (buy, sell, manage, etc... ) but now only for myself. I could answer these questions but won't because unless it's around Houston, Tx., the answers could be different. You really need to see what the competition is doing in your area so you can be competitive. I'd suggest to talk to at least 2 Realtors locally and ask them these questions and let them show you on paper the competition to see what they provide as well as the pricing. I might also suggest to list with a Realtor because they can do a lot of work for you, answer your follow up questions and provide the lease as well. Our lease over the years has gotten so long that it's now15 pages. It's quite comprehensive of course. Of course it's only a piece of paper if you know what I mean. Oh some Realtors can manage your property if you don't feel comfortable doing it but be careful. You really only want experienced managers. Also check what the licensing requirements for others to manage your property are, if you go that route. I could tell you stories about managing property for others but I don't know if it would help you. Besides if you don't go this route, I'm wasting your time.
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wrote:

Good idea.

No, a 'fridge is not usually necessary to get a CO. Stove, yes.

Yes.
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On 4/30/2012 10:21 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

None of this CO business in Kansas nor missouri. not familiar with the rest. sounds like bs.
--
Steve Barker
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wrote:

No. Well, yes. ;-)
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wrote:

Really no guidelines, it's between you and the tenant, and of course can pretty much be adjusted by changing the rent.
I'm facing the same question, whether I can or should sell a house in this awful market or try to rent it out to carry for a couple of years, and if so just what to include.
As a landlord renting can either be a breeze or a nightmare, or anything in between. Depends on the tenant of course, and also on events, what happens to break and why.
J.
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As long as you know that a bankruptcy can stop a foreclosure dead in its tracks (well at least in Texas). Going thru this now for the 2nd time on a house I hold the paper to.
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Richard wrote:

Slight correction:
"Officials at the Office of the Secretary of State say e-mails circulating about a Homestead Exemption Tax Amendment are fake. "The e-mail in question says voters must choose whether or not to keep the homestead tax cap for people 65 and older. Spokeswoman Ashley Burton said that the e-mails are completely false and that there are no statewide initiatives on the ballot for the May election."
http://www.statesman.com/blogs/content/shared-gen/blogs/austin/cityhall/entries/2009/04/24/secretary_of_state_homestead_e.html
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On 5/1/2012 7:13 PM, HeyBub wrote:

http://www.statesman.com/blogs/content/shared-gen/blogs/austin/cityhall/entries/2009/04/24/secretary_of_state_homestead_e.html
Ok, my apologies for rabble rousing.
But we won - so it's a good thing too.
Sorry.
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wrote:

I'm the mortgage holder so that qualifies as #2 but the mortgagee also owes property taxes so while I tried to foreclose and am the first lien holder, taxes still take priority over my position. Of course he stopped the foreclosure with his bankruptcy but the bankruptcy plan still had to include property taxes and my first lien position, then the rest he owes to others. Just as a side note, there is a meeting to dismiss the bankruptcy because he's not following the plan to pay the trustee. Should it be dismissed, I will foreclose. There's a lot more to this story but it's not needed to say here.
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On Tue, 1 May 2012 20:58:42 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

Right and I already answered his post with my 25 yrs + experience managing properties in Texas. How bout you?
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Mike Marlow wrote:

We Texans try to be a light unto the nation...
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wrote:

Is that why I see all the outa state license plates around Houston, Texas? Maybe the last one out of their state shuts down his power grid and then aims for the light <grin>.
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The seams that connect the lengths of the large box gutters around our house leak. The house is about 10 years old and the gutters are aluminum formed on site. The seams have leaked ever since the house was about 2 years old. I've scraped off the sealant at the joints inside the gutters and renewed it every few years, but the leaks always come back. Time for a new approach -- any ideas?
Tomsic
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On 5/5/2012 9:24 AM, Tomsic wrote:

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It's a silicone type of sealant -- needs a dry surface to cure and very flexible when cured. I used the usual squeeze gun to apply it and then smoothed it out with a putty knife.
Tomsic
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On 5/5/2012 9:47 AM, Tomsic wrote:

the caulk itself deteriorating, or is it separating from the aluminum, or both?
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On 5/5/2012 8:47 AM, Tomsic wrote:

You don't tell what brand of silicone. The only one I will use is DowCorning 795. Gutter work will work much better with butyl rubber caulk - it is difficult and stringy to apply but will last indefinitely. The only good way to work gutter joints is to take it apart, clean, apply butyl, reassemble. Smearing caulk on the surface won't work.
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Re: Leaking Gutter Seams:

Just curious about why it doesn't work. Any idea?
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On 5/5/2012 5:07 PM, Vinny From NYC wrote:

If you are asking why caulk on the outside doesn't work, here are my thoughts. Caulk can never have what is referred to as 3 point adhesion. It is designed to be applied to each of 2 sides but NOT in the middle. Professionals use bond breaker tape or backer rod (which functions as a bond breaker) in joints. The cured caulk joint should have a rectangular profile. I'm sure you've seen the samples at the register that invite you to pull, twist, tug, etc. Look carefully at the material shape and application. Caulk is usually rated on its elongation and its bond properties. I think that your gutter application would do better if you put bond breaker tape over the joint and concentrated on a clean and substantial application on each side of the joint over the top of the tape.
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I have been learning how to properly seal travel trailers. Don't use silicone. Don't use dynaflex 230 . I have been using a gutter sealer bought at the home depot. It's in the gutter section. It comes out silver. Can be used in water rather quick, but dries over a couple days. It stays slightly flexible. I think the small hand tube is also silver. Really this stuff seems much like plumbers goop, but smells different. Is uv resistant but I paint a polymer over it. Seems there is always something good to use, and I end up using something that does not work in the long run.
Greg
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