OT Shoulder belt doesn't retract

Page 2 of 2  
On 7/22/2016 12:33 PM, bob_villain wrote:

Sure, but he'll have a hard time reaching the pedals from that side.
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On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 3:35:29 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

LOL!
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Micky posted for all of us...

Go to the Toyota dealer and they can remove the trim and trigger the latch, most likely in the reception area-that's what they did for me. They ordered and replaced the mechanism. They may replace the parts for free as it's a safety item. Be aware that that there is a pre-tensioner in there and requires precaution if you are doing it yourself. Also bolts must be torqued to specs.
--
Tekkie

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wrote:

That's a very good idea.

I'm confused. If they were able to trigger the latch, why did htey have to replace the mechanism?
Were they going to do it for free if it only required releasing the latch?

Even buying the part through them is not a good idea. They tried to cheat me the only time I went there to get work done.
What a day. I had taken a pill so I can could manage to lie in an MRI (some claustrophobia) and the supermarket gave me twice the prescribed dosage. So I was groggy and I hit a curb. Later, after I replaced the right half-axle, the lower control arm, the ball joint, the rotor, and the brake pads, I needed the car aligned. They were advertising a "sale" that made them as cheap as Firestone.
They aligned the wheels all right, maybe, but they took the opportunity to evaluate my car, and they said I needed boots from both CV joints in front. Well one had only 12 miles on it, and the other I went over in detail and it was firm and without cracks. They wanted 5 or 600 for this iirc. I never did get around to complaining, so when he offers to order a belt for me, I'll ask the price, how much is their profit, and then I'll tell him why I wont' do it. Maybe I'll look for the paper work and bring it with me. I know within an inch where it is.
They might have tried to collect some other bogus "repairs". My memory is vague.

Thank you. Is it enough to disconnect the connector after removing the trim? While the car is off. (Surely, maybe, the pre-tensioner can't fire when the car is off? )

Okay. I have the shop manual and I'll look for that part. (Sometimes torques are elsewhere.)
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On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 3:53:01 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:

I found this elsewhere...just one possible outcome if you go to the dealer.
The discussion was about a jammed seat-belt in a Honda. Someone mentioned that Honda's seat-belts are warrantied for life. The OP called a Honda dealer and was told:
"If they take it apart and find it's something like a folded seat belt jamming the mechanism I pay the labor for taking it apart and putting it together. If they find the seat belt is defective I pay nothing."
There was no mention of how much the labor would be, but I would guess that it would the dealer minimum, like perhaps 1 hour.
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On Sat, 23 Jul 2016 07:00:02 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Thanks. Helpful.
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DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

I would claim the is a design defect as the belt must not be folded to meet strength or durability or crash worthiness.
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On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 3:55:30 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:

ler.

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et

Seat belts can get twisted and pulled back into the mechanism without there be a design defect. It's amazing what a user can accomplish.
Besides, we're talking about a *jammed* seat belt, not a seat belt that is twisted inside the mechanism and still operating. The belt must not be jamm ed to meet crash worthiness.
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Micky posted for all of us...

Because it's under warranty and may happen again. It's called customer satisfaction.

Yes

I was cautioning you. It may be required to replace the mechanism. I don't have the manual. You do.

Good idea.
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wrote:

Oh, I'm way beyond the warranty. And to give them their due, it didn't break during the warranty. It took 16 years.

You're right. I found the book last night and it didn't have too much of a warning. If I remember, I'll quote it before I post this. "Something about disconnecting seat belt pretension wiring with the ignition ON or ACC will record diagnostic trouble codes. Of course afaik I have no trouble except physical.
Never use SBPreten. from another car. Of course they say that.
Remove scuff plate, rear seat cushion, rear seatback, quarter trim panel, FRONT SEAT OUTER BELT SHOULDER ANCHOR, RETRACTOR OF FRONT SEAT OUTER BELT.
Caution, never disassemble the front seat outer belt. I'm only gong to poke at it.
It starts here:
When removing the retractor fromt seat outer belt, take care not to pull the seat belt pretentioner wire harness.
Disconnect the retractor switch connector.
Disconnect the pretensioner connector as shown in the illustration. (I'll just follow the wire to its end.)
Caution, When removing the seat belt pretensioner work must be started 90 seconds after the ignistiion switch is turned to the Lock postion and the negative terminal cable is disconnected from the battery.
{I guess they mean 90 seconds or more and not 90 seconds or less. It will be hard to do it exactly 90 seconds after.}
Remove the two bolts and retractor of front outerseat belt.

Because it's Japanese, they give the torque in Newton-Minnows, some second unit, and foot-pounds. I can't tell how many bolts there will be because things are rearranged for convertibles, but 3 for a sedan and all the bolts were the same torque, 31 ft. lbs.
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