My mistake. I read many responses then when I went back to respond myself I forgot about the gas part. No...I was talking about an electric water heater. Sorry for the confusion, Sky.
Anyway, many years ago, a customer put in a large Jacuzzi. She was filling it to use and the hot water ran out before it was even half filled. They needed a larger hot water heater. Turned out that the larger one required more power and she had to hire an electrician to change the switch/fuse box. I'm guessing that the larger one needed
I have gas heat, hot water, and stove. I've never lost gas but during a power outage, my gas furnace won't work (needs a fan to blow the forced air) and it shuts down without electricity. Same thing for my gas hot water heater. Without electricity, it shuts down. Gas stove is the only thing I can use during a power outage.
I have gas heat, hot water, and stove. I've never lost gas but during a power outage, my gas furnace won't work (needs a fan to blow the forced air) and it shuts down without electricity. Same thing for my gas hot water heater. Without electricity, it shuts down. Gas stove is the only thing I can use during a power outage.
Sorry about all the reposts. My stupid computer said it wasn't sent. Rather than waiting to see if it came up later, I kept trying to resend. I know better too so shame on me.
Well, my 3 year old gas range has very large oven but the storage drawer is much smaller than ovens without the convection feature. If I had wanted a larger storage drawer I would have had to give up the convection feature. There's always a catch when you buy something these days.
That's still the most common type. It's what I have. During Sandy I had no power for a week, but plenty of hot water.
Right, either power vent, or tankless use AC. I think there are some tankless that don't require AC though. There are probably some conventional type tank that now use AC instead of a pilot light for ignition too.
And the EPA tends to be optimistic. So, you can pay $500 more for a higher efficiency WH and wait 20 years to get it back. Only problem, most gas WHs don't last that long.
How much did they go down? You sure it's apples to apples? If you have gas heat, put it in in February, the gas bill will go right down to. IDK what the cost of gas is over there, but here in the USA it's fairly cheap. My whole gas bill in summer is under $20 a month. So, it's hard for me to see where all this savings is coming from.
How can it be beyond your budget when after all is tallied it costs far less than a traditional tank type water heater. I at first thought it was pricey too but in 18 months it saved more than it cost and still saves hundreds of dollars every year... on average it costs $80/month less to run than my old tank type. Don't be a penny-wise dollar-fool. If you don't have the extra cash it'll be the best home improvement loan you can make. What your budget can't afford is another tank type water heater... just pisses away dollars 24/7 making many gallons of hot water you don't even use, a silent wallet drain.
I DIDN'T SAY MORE GAS. It uses about the same amount of gas, but all at once more BTUs for a shorter time- so higher flow. If the tank is inside the house (in conditioned space) the meat loss is minimal - and in the winter just reduces the load on the heating system.
I have a 40 US gallon tank heater and the heat loss id VERY low. If no hot water is used it MIGHT fire gor a total of 5 to 7 minutes a day. I can be in the basement for 6 hours without it firing at all, so no more than 4 firings a day with no flow - and the odd time it HAS fired while I am around - with no hot water used - it runs for about a minute. It is a 40,000BTU unit
My natural gas generator will run my natural gas furnace or my electric stove when the power goes out. My natural gas water heater will work without electrical power input. If I need the FULL output of my generator I need to run it on Propane or Gasoline - then I can run the stove and the furnace and most of the lights at the same time.
The electric demand for gas water heaters is very minimal (about the same as a gas stove, a 15 A circuit), it's only enough to operate the thermostat and a couple of tiny LEDs that indicate it's in use. With electric water heaters an electrical supply upgrade would be required for larger gallon capacities because as the gallons increase so does the heating element wattage... a large capacity water heater may require the electical demand of a central AC system/electric stove.
It would be totally impossible to save enough gas to pay for a tankless water heater around here. My TOTAL: gas bill would have to be reduced fo zero for about 5 years ( I heat with gas, and my annual gas bill is under $700 for both heating the house and water - and running the Bar-B-Q.)
I'll bet the standby loss on my water heater is well under $100 per year. Let's run the numbers. From my gas bill, the water heater uses about 0.4 cubic meters per day to heat the water ( the total amount of gas used in the months of July, August, and september - which actually includes the use of the Bar B Q)- including both thw water we use and the water that is stored. That is less than $0.10 per day (at a total cost of $0.1845 per meter it is actually $0.074) - so a tankless could not save more than ten cents a day in gas use - about $36.50 per year.
At that rate, a $3600 tankless (installed price) would take 100 years to pay for itself. I can tell you with ABSOLUTE certainty the tankless heater will NEVER last long enough to pay for itself at that rate. If you think it can, you are dreaming in technicolor!!!! Especially when you consider the FACT that the lost heat is not wasted for about 8 months of the year because supplemental heat is required, to one extent or another, for those 8 months - lowering the actual savings to something less than 10 dollars per year.
These are actual numbers -from real experience - and the numbers don't lie. You can NOT make the numbers work for a tankless natural gas water heater to EVER pay for itself in savings at anywhere NEAR today's natural gas prices. At Ontario's electricity costs there is a CHANCE you could mmake a case for it paying for itself in 10 years if you didn't have to upgrade the electrical service to 200 amp - which in my case would add over $10,000 (and I just replaced my 100 amp fuse panel with a 125 amp breaker panel - the largest I could install without having to spend over $8000 to upgrade the underground feed from the transformer) A standard whole house tankless electric water heater (120 to 180 amps) would require an electric service as big as or larger than my entire existing house service. Even the small "single point of use" units require a 50 or 60a amp breaker!!!
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.