OT: Replacement water heater for home (NSOT??)

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wrote:

no hot water is used it MIGHT fire gor a total of 5 to 7 minutes a day. I can be in the basement for 6 hours without it firing at all, so no more than 4 firings a day with no flow - and the odd time it HAS fired while I am around - with no hot water used - it runs for about a minute. It is a 40,000BTU unit
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On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 3:14:38 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

My gas bill in summer, under $20, which includes usage, confirms that standby losses can't amount to much.
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On Sat, 04 Jun 2016 21:14:28 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Why, it's a totally seperate feature.
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On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 4:36:44 PM UTC-4, Brooklyn1 wrote:

IDK what a combi boiler is to you, but I think to most people it means a hydronic heating boiler that also supplies domestic hot water. Agree?
Then explain to us why you'd put one of those in when you have forced air heat.
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On Sun, 05 Jun 2016 16:36:34 -0400, Brooklyn1

domestic hot water
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On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 9:08:53 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

That's my understanding too and like you say, IDK how it works with forced air either. Nor is it something new. I remember by grandfather's house, built in the 50s had one.
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On Saturday, June 4, 2016 at 9:50:56 AM UTC-4, Gary wrote:

He said it's gas.

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On 6/4/2016 9:51 AM, Gary wrote:

Why do you have to increase the electric on a gas water heater?
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On 6/4/2016 2:34 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Government regulation.
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Christopher A. Young
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On 6/4/2016 1:42 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

That doesn't make sense(?). Would that not be dependent on the new water heater and its specs ?! If I were to go with a tankless unit, then I do believe there's some electricity involved --- however, that's not a route I'll take since it's way beyond my budget.
Sky
===============================Kitchen Rule #1 - Use the timer! Kitchen Rule #2 - Cook's choice! ===============================
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On Saturday, June 4, 2016 at 7:08:36 PM UTC-4, Sky wrote:

It was just Stormin being Stormin with humor. Somebody made the clain about increasing the electric service because they didn't read you had gas.
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tankless generally require a 120 volt outlet, many usea forced power vent, basically a blower.
th
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On Saturday, June 4, 2016 at 7:49:47 PM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:

Say what? Tankless generally require a 240V, high amp wired connection.
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On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 1:45:36 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

only ELECTRIC TANKLESS which are terrible at heating water. and generally require a 250 amp main panel just for heating water, so you will need a second panel for everything else
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On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 7:27:20 PM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:

K, never mind, I agree. I was thinking electric tankless for some reason.
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On 06/05/2016 06:27 PM, bob haller wrote:

I was looking for a little heater just for a bathroom sink. Tankless electric would require special wiring, a tank heater would work on a standard 120V-15A outlet.
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On 6/4/2016 6:26 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Whew ;> and big grin! Although, from what I've read, a power shut-off might be required :/ (?) I'm still working on my 'homework/research' and learning about water heater replacement . . . .
Sky
===============================Kitchen Rule #1 - Use the timer! Kitchen Rule #2 - Cook's choice! ===============================
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On Saturday, June 4, 2016 at 8:03:54 PM UTC-4, Sky wrote:

Say what? Why would an electric power shut off be required to change out a gas water heater?
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On 6/4/2016 7:26 PM, trader_4 wrote:

My natural gas water heater has no electric service, and I rather like it that way. During the ice storm 2003, hot water was really nice to have.
"somebody" is singular. "they" is plural. Ought have written that he or she didn't read.
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