The recent thread about impact wrenches got me thinking...
I need to change the rotors on my Honda Oddessy. They have 2 large
phillips head screws countersunk into the rotors which have to be
removed before the rotors will come off.
I don't know if they are the original rotors (70K on the van, I've had
it since 40K with the same rotors) but I'm thinking that with all the
heat generated by braking, they might not be the easiest screws to
I didn't want to try backing out the screws with a huge phillips head
driver for fear of damaging them, then having to drill them out, etc.
Before I take everything apart (again) does anybody have any thoughts
on the best way to remove the screws, assuming a big screw driver
What they said. The hand impact, a properly fitting Phillips bit, and
a BFH is the Right Tool For The Job.
Requred to remove stubborn (car) door hinge screws, as well. Nothing
else is likely to work.
Good news is, you probably already have a BFH, and if you don't have
an impact driver, they are not expensive.
I'll look into it, but...
From the website...
"although it takes some skill to keep it on the bolt when you hammer
And they seem to be talking about a socket over a bolt, not a bit in a
phillips head screw.
It's hard to tell the size of the screwdriver bolts from the pictures,
but none of them look big enough to fit securely in the large philips
head screws on my rotor.
I'll stop by Sears and see what they look like close up.
On Fri, 7 Aug 2009 13:57:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
My wrench came from Sears many years ago.
"6 pc. impact driver set lets you free frozen or rusted screws. Each
hammer blow develops 200 ft. lb. of torque. Includes 1/2 in. sq. drive
tool, bit holder, 3/8 in. slotted and Nos. 2, 3 and 4 Phillips bits."
Same as this pic:
I could add - the trick of it is that it applies huge force inward on the bit at
the same time as it turns hard, thus making sure the bit doesn't slip out of the
head, and unloading the screw threads at the same time.
On Fri, 07 Aug 2009 11:53:15 -0700, Eric in North TX wrote:
Absolutely. Just had to do this on my son's Kia. Took about 5 seconds
to conclude that a normal phillips was completely useless. Then I
remembered that when my FIL died several years ago one thing I inherited
was a hand impact driver.
Murphy's law was not enforced that day so I actually found the darn thing
(having never used it prior to that) and it took three blows on one screw
and only one on the other. Had a hell of a time getting the second screw
separated from the drive head though.
While on the topic, WHAT are the engineers thinking in this application?
Wouldn't a torx, square drive, or just about anything be better suited to
such an application compared to a phillips head?
re: "One would think a simple indexing pin would suffice.
Or *nothing* like just about every other car I've done brakes on.
My son's Mitsubishi Gallant not only has nothing holding his rotors
on, but they even provide 2 threaded holes so you can drive bolts into
the rotor and force it off the hub if it gets stuck.
A lot of German cars use the screws. I was told that it was to locate
the rotor more precisely than can be done by the lug studs, FWIW. It's
also helpful on cars that use lug bolts instead of lug studs (BMW, VW)
so you don't have to try to line up the wheel, rotor AND hub at the side
of the road after you've gotten a flat (on the non-drive end of the car,
of course, so it's all flailing around under there.)
But as I said, I don't see why a simple pin pressed into the hub to mate
with a hole in the rotor wouldn't accomplish the same thing...
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Had a pickup with that issue. Bud was a pro fleet mechanic and I took it by
his shop. I had already soaked the hub with Break Away with my efforts. He
jacked it up, gave em a couple of good whacks with a hand sledge and they
came right off. I would have feared cracking or distorting them. He says
nope. Never had any issues with them afterwards.
I appologize if this is a duplicate post, I'm new. I did this rotor job
today on my daughter's honda oddessy and used a hand held impact tool.
All the screws came out except two. The screw heads and driver bit
started to distort so I had to resort to heating the heads to cherry red
with a welding torch. They then came out with litte effort using the
On Thu, 22 Oct 2009 14:28:17 -0700, "Jon Danniken"
If they don't know the difference, I don't think he can be spamming,
which requires intention. I think you're awfully hard on this guy,
whose post was quite interesting.
(I would have used a propane torch and it wouldn't have gotten so hot
so fast. OTOH, I don't have a welding torch. :) )
The only advertising was their name in the url, one line. I know
plenty of people with a longer sig than that.
And loads of newsgroups are quoted on the web. This one is in real
time it seems, at least some of the time. So they can, afaik, really
To Brudot, it is a lot easier and better in many ways (no advertising,
full screen text, more control, much much easier to refer to prior
posts, ability to cross post to mulitple ngs when appropriate) to read
newsgroups with a newsreader, like Agent of Thunderbird, etc. and
there are afaict NO advantages to reading on the web. You should
learn about it. But afaic, you're welcome to read the way you are.
Remove nopsam to write me.
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