OT - Decision Process: Replace Timing Belt Now or Wait?

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wrote:

Nonsense. You're still driving the same 60K miles between 90K and 150K, and you're still spending the same amount on the timing belt repair. The only difference is when you buy the belt. Either way, you're amortizing the same cost over the same mileage, and get the same cost per mile.
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And Tegger knows his stuff, at least when it comes to Hondas.
BTW, Tegger, what happened to your website that used to be in your sig? Not working on cars anymore?
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It's in such need of update that I didn't think it apporpriate to advertise it anymore. One day...
--
Tegger

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wrote:

That was indeed my point, but I expressed it badly.
To say it more clearly: If you keep the vehicle much over 110K, you've got a belt-change in there anyway, so that money /will/ get spend whether you spend it now or you spend it later. And if you spend it "later", you start to stray into belt-breakage territory, which is not wise with a Honda.
--
Tegger

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Uh, I think not, considering that he explicitly claimed that the cost per mile to replace it later was double the the cost per mile to replace it now.
What part of "one cent per mile ... two cents per mile" did you find confusing?
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I understand that. And that's true: you won't save money by waiting.

You and he both fail to understand that *that* is false: the amortized cost is the same, because the car is driven 60K miles and thus the cost is amortized over 60K miles, regardless of when the belt is purchased.

And that's true.
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When should I admit that a small part of my reason for posting this question was to see what kind of discussion it would produce?
120+ posts, and most of them pretty much on topic.
Not bad!
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snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote in wrote:

I posted an update and correction/clarification to that this morning at 8:35.
I said:
"That was indeed my point, but I expressed it badly. "To say it more clearly: If you keep the vehicle much over 110K, you've got a belt-change in there anyway, so that money /will/ get spend whether you spend it now or you spend it later. And if you spend it "later", you start to stray into belt-breakage territory, which is not wise with a Honda."
Where that reply went, I don't know, but it's not in my server's copy of this group.
--
Tegger

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re: Are you sure about that 90K limit?
That's what the dealer told him. I don't know if he still has the manual, but I can ask.
And for what's it's worth, your thoughts are the same as what I've tried to say a few times in this thread - why wait?
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It is an interference engine http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id598
http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?fileB8-1466_web.pdf&folder=brochure The Gates manual says 105,000 miles.
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http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id598

http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?fileB8-1466_web.pdf&folder=brochure The Gates manual says 105,000 miles.I noticed after posting this, the kit also comes with a water pump. Thatanswers a dispute of a couple of earlier posters about it.
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wrote

I strongly advise against using aftermarket timing belts or water pumps on any Honda or Toyota. Neither has the durability of genuine OEM.
But then if all you're expecting is to get another 40-50K or so before you get rid of the car, go ahead and use aftermarket. Let the new owner deal with any early failures.
--
Tegger

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wrote:

I'd dissagree. High end aftermarket is as good as, or better than OEM in MANY cases. Just don't buy the aftermarket stuff based on price.
"If you want first quality oats, you need to be willing to pay first quality price. If you are willing to settle for oats that have already been through the horse, they DO come a bit cheaper"
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On 06/17/10 08:37 am, Tegger wrote:

And I have read reports that the Gates timing belt sold for the Chrysler 300M doesn't always even fit correctly.
Perce
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Tegger wrote:

???? Most of the cost is labor. When I had the rubber band changed in my 4-cyl Accord, they said the diff between OEM and imitation parts was maybe 20 bucks.
--
aem sends...

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If he doesn't, he can join Honda's Ownerlink site: https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/login.asp
From there he can get the /official/ maintenance schedules. These would be /Honda's/ schedule, not the dealer's moneymaking attempts.

Right. If you keep the car even to 150K, you're spending money for the belt change /anyway/. So better to get it done before the probability of breakage increases.
That engine is an "interference" design. This means that, should the belt slip or break, there is a chance valve(s) and pistons could collide. If that happens, you're about doubling the cost of the belt change.
--
Tegger

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wrote:

Double won't even come CLOSE. Much more like 5 times.
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On 6/15/2010 7:38 PM, Tegger wrote:

But aren't you supposed to purposely omit all of the details when asking a question so a 100 post thread of guesses can form?
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Ahh, but it appears that the point of my OP was missed.
The vehicle info was *purposely* left out because the question, as per the subject line, was about the *Decision Process*, not about at what mileage the timing belt should be replaced in any given vehicle.
Given that odds are the owner isn't going to keep the (any!) vehicle for the alleged life of 2 timing belts (220K) or even the "dealer life" (180K) why would he (or a mechanic) consider waiting any longer than the 90K suggested in the manual?
It was about the logic behind deciding to delay the replacement and not about the life expectancy of the belt in any specific vehicle.
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But the decision process takes a different path depending on whether a failed belt causes damage or just leaves him stranded, which depends on the vehicle. I think leaving out the vehicle was based on underestimating the complexity of the question rather than wanting a complex decision tree as an answer.
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