Back in the olden days you could take a carburetor to the shop and they would put it in "the hot tank". It came out looking brand new (the casting). Does anyone know what that chemical was?
I know to take a Holley Dual feed you needed a gallon or more of it but I am just interested in little weed eater carbs that would fit in a tea cup.
.
I got a gallon of GUNK carb cleaner at Advanced Auto Parts. Comes in a gallon can like a paint can with a little basket for the parts etc. It does not work as good as the old days, but it worked on the lawnmower carb.
R
I used to make a living back in the 80's overhauling carbs. I don't know exactly what we used - it was some sort of alkaline detergent solution, it came in a big tank, and was actually two different solutions. One floated on top of the other. The stuff on top was basically inert, and the stuff on the bottom was what did the cleaning - the stuff on top protected the stuff on the bottom from exposure to the atmosphere. It would dissolve just about anything - wood, rubber, neoprene floats - anything that wasn't metal.
You won't find this at any parts store because it's too dangerous to sell at the consumer level - it will dissolve your hair, skin, eyeballs, children, pets, etc. In this era of over the top epa regulations, etc., I'm not sure if you can even get it anymore. You can, however, get Gunk carb cleaner in a bucket, and it will work fairly well, but you have to soak the parts in it a lot longer. Be sure to rinse *thoroughly* with water, and then blow dry with compressed air. be carefull to blow out all passages. Use new gaskets when you put it together, and it will run like new.
If it's the same stuff I used in the sixties and seventies the stuff on top was water and the stuff below was EXTREMELY vile!!
I do believe you can buy it from NAPA and other parts stores in 5gal pails. It comes with a dip basket inside the can. An example:
Yep that is the stuff. I knew it was nasty, that is why they called it a hot tank. Thanks.
I had some of that stuff in the 60's but havent' been able to find something as strong, afaict. At least in the one quart size.
But be sure to store the can someplace where its leaking won't cause harm. Even the weaker stuff I've bought has eaten through the can. Two different cans I think.
If I remember correctly...it was lacquer thinner or methylene chloride and methanol. Which would destroy all the plastics except polyurethane.
bob_v
Sorry...meant polyethylene!
Years ago, I tried oven cleaner spray for cleaning the green stale gas off a carb. From a mower I'd found on the curbside. Worked slick as can be. I dissembled the carb, and put the pieces in the laundry sink. Sprayed with oven cleaner, wait about three minutes, and rinse completely. Might work for you.
We used to use Brulin. It's illegal now I think. Anything that works good is illegal now.
Oven cleaner would, most likely, dissolve white-metal!!! (acids are not compatible with aluminum or white-metal) bob_v
Back in the '50s we used to rebuild the old Plymouth's carb every year. Took it to a local mechanic and he would charge a small sum to soak it overnight in his dip tank. However, all of the instructions I've read recently on rebuilding small carbs...lawn mower, outboard motor, snow blower, etc....caution against using that type of cleaner as they claim it will dissolve some small parts in the carb that are best left alone. A spray cleaner, only is recommended.
Tom.
I wouldn't dip a whole carburetor but the main casting is just aluminum and brass. These little weed eater and chain saw carbs are real easy to take apart but the main jet is virtually impossible to get to for cleaning. They are really only about $50 on the net and that will certainly fix the problem but it seems like a waste.
I'll give you fifty bucks if you can prove to me that a sodium (or potassium) hydroxide based oven cleaner is acidic.
I'm with you. Seems like a waste, if the metering jet is the only thing wrong.
I had 2 with exactly the same symptom (start, won't run) and both would not flow fuel from the chamber with the diaphragm and inlet needle through the metering jet. I got one open and things were fine. The other is still hopelessly plugged. I bought a carb and fixed that one. I would still like to fix the original for a spare.
I did figure out how all that fuel flow works on those little 2 strokes so it was a good learning experience. It is not really much like the car carbs or boat carbs I have done all my life. The primer bulb actually sucks fuel thorough the system and pumps it back into the tank. The stuff under the "big screw" end is the fuel pump and the "4 screw" end is the reservoir for the main metering jet.
I've always used the GUNK product with the parts basket. Stripped the carb and put all the metal parts in for soaking (auto store).
Allow to sit a day or so, rinse with water and blow out the jets with an air hose. Soaking helps break down varnish and grime - overnight.
What you might try is the dishwasher soap (Cascade, Electra-sol etc.) and boiling water. Give it a soak for 20-30 minutes and it should be dazzlingly clean.
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