OT Car Battery Replacement

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Sorry for the OT post- but got no response in the car NGs.
I need to replace the battery in a 2010 Honda CR-V but don't have one of those electronics "settings keepers".
I don't mind re-entering the radio code and station presets-- but will anything else (ECM, etc.) get wiped out- or damaged- if I just disconnect the old battery?
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On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 9:20:41 AM UTC-5, Wade Garrett wrote:

Nothing of any significance has been lost on any cars I've owned. Station presets are even there. Might have to re-enter the date, and time. Some cars did have a radio theft code that you had to re-enter, but I think that was mostly on aftermarket radios. Damaged? That won't happen. Cars wind up with dead batteries or batteries removed all the time.
You can buy one of those temp battery gizmos at any auto parts store for a few bucks. Or Ebay for probably less. Many auto parts stores install batteries for free too and they almost certainly have/use those devices.
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On 3/2/16 9:36 AM, trader_4 wrote:

I hit both the local NAPA and Advance Auto Parts stores looking for one. I got a blank stare at NAPA.The Advance guy showed me some fancy black box gizmo that connected to the OBD port that they used when they replaced batteries- but they had nothing for sale.
I was thinking of maybe jerry-rigging/attaching a 9 volt transistor battery to the car's battery cables before removing-- but I may just go ahead and pull it.
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On 3/2/2016 9:53 AM, Wade Garrett wrote:

Two options come to mind. 9v battery hooked to a lighter cord, and put in the lighter socket.
Other option is if you know someone like me who has a battery jumper pack, and a double ended lighter cord (which I use for recharging the jump pack), that can be plugged in via the lighter socket in your vehicle.
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On Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:02:05 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Yes, I saw one of these for sale, probably at jcwhitney.com but I made my own and put it in the trunk. I never use it though!
My cars have been a 2000 Toyota, 1995 and 1988 Chrysler, and because of excessive battery drain, in each of them!, I've had an almost dead battery probably 60 times in the last 20 years, and because I use a device that disconnects the battery when it's almost dead, from the car's pov, the battery is dead, disconnected. After I push the button that reconnects the battery, I reset the radio.
All the driving information that adjusts your ignition is wiped out and it goes to defaults, but I've never noticed any difference except it takes two tries, one right after the other, to start the car after the battery is disconnected. But it always started right up on the second try.

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On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 10:49:41 AM UTC-5, Micky wrote:

It would seem a better idea for the device to disconnect the battery so it doesn't go dead to begin with. Or even better, fix the parasitic drain that is the source of the problem.
After I push the

Cars I've had and worked on, the engine computer did not lose it's setting when the battery was disconnected. That seems like a really bad idea when it can be stored in flash.
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On Wed, 2 Mar 2016 08:32:24 -0800 (PST), trader_4

That's what I said. "Almost dead".

I'll be here this weekend if you want to come over and do that.

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On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:44:48 AM UTC-5, Micky wrote:

What I meant was that it would seem a better idea for the device to disconnect the battery so that it doesn't start to go dead to begin with. What's the point to disconnecting it when it's almost dead? You're hoping there is enough energy left to start the car? Each time you do that deep draining, it significantly shortens the life of the battery.

Why should one of us fix your broken car?
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On Wed, 2 Mar 2016 08:51:37 -0800 (PST), trader_4

I pay attention and I don't know of anything that does that.

There always has been. The Battery Buddy, no longer made, worked 60 times, probably more than 60 times, and the car always started just fine.
Priority Start has only needed to work once, and the car started just fine. It's still sold, and mostly marketed to companies with trucks.

battery.
In one way yes, but since I've had those devices, I"ve actually been to go 3 years and counting with a battery I would consider no good. One of them seemed to improve with time.

Becuase you're the one who brought it up.
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wrote:

Omitted word inserted.
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On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 9:53:16 AM UTC-5, Wade Garrett wrote:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kastar-memor-eze-computer-memory-
Don't know if that link works, but you can probably find it by searching for the name at Adv Auto.
The 9V battery, using some jumpers idea should work too
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A 9volt battery wont do shit. You could probably put some leads on a 12V garden tractor battery and plug it into your cig lighter socket, but why go thru that hassle. Just change your battery and reset your clock. The TIME/DATE is about all you'll lose. I never saw radio resets getting lost, and your cars computer will not be affected.
There is a good chance you car's clock needs to be reset anyhow. I know mine seems to lose several minutes during extreme cold weather. (And I have a very good battery). Dont forget next weekend we go to "Daylight Savings Time", so you'll have to reset your clock anyhow.
By the way, your cellphone has the most accurate time. Use it to set your car's clock.
Yea, the "Auto" newsgroups are all of dead.... But I dont think anyone objects to auto related posts on this group. Us backyard mechanics are doing "home repair", just doing in on the car rather than the house.
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On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 5:48:10 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

Why would that be? With the car off, the drain is very small. IDK what it is for all cars, but BMW X5 for example, it's about 30ma. It has to be low or your car would go dead in a airport lot or similar when it hasn't been driven. Plus there are devices on the market for exactly that purpose, they use a 9V battery or similar to provide power while the car battery is changed. I provided a link to one.
but why

I agree that's a typical case and it's been my experience too. But we don't know about all cars or what aftermarket equipment people have. Some radios had security codes which could be lost when power is interrupted.
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On Wed, 02 Mar 2016 16:47:32 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

9 volt battery is used in virtually all commercial "memory savers". So you are right - it won't "do shit" - it will "work"
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On 3/2/2016 4:07 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

The (CMOS) volatile memory used in most electronic devices will gladly hold data down to 2V -- or even less. (modern CPU's *operate* at these voltage levels!)
But, there may be other circuitry that watches for a "low battery level" and deliberately NOTICES this and DISCARDS the contents of the memory -- because ~8V is about as low as you'd expect a car battery to go for any length of time (short durations like cranking the battery can fall and "local support" -- capacitors -- can keep the voltage up for the various control electronics).
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On Wed, 02 Mar 2016 17:27:38 -0700, Don Y

You can't argue with the fact mechanics use them all the time. Some guys use a "lantern battery" instead of the 9 volt (only 6 volts but a lot "stiffer" and some use a 12 volt "booster pack" ballasted with an 1157 bulb so if the battery + cable touches ground it doesn't fry anything.
You DO need to leave the doors closed and disconnect the underhood light if so equipped., particularly if using the 9 volt unit.
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On 3/2/2016 6:29 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Ah, that's a good trick! Of course, predicated on the fact that you don't expect anything "of load" to be connected at the time (courtesy light, etc.)

Yes, as I mentioned elsewhere this thread. The problem is, *remembering* where all of those little power suckers are hiding! Hood, trunk, glove box, door steps, etc.
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On Wed, 02 Mar 2016 20:32:03 -0700, Don Y

The "ballasted" 12 volt tells you when you mised one.
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On 3/2/2016 9:04 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Ah! Even cleverer -- the lamp lights! (glows)
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On Wed, 02 Mar 2016 21:20:07 -0700, Don Y

The same principal can be used to make the 9 volt battery safe too - a resistance to limit the current drawn from or pumped into the 9 volt battery CAN be used instead of a diode - the real "cheap-assed" units available for the cost of the battery alone could well be using a resistor instead of a diode. The ECU and radio memory only require miliamps of current.
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