them. ^_^
I have not done anything since last summer. Have not been using the cb. Last summer found terrible noise from fan system. I did put some filtering in, but it's still high. Then there is the led light supplies, then there is that very noisy sears drill charger. That was tricky to find, plugged but no battery. Always something. I was walking up and down street finding that charger. It was radiating at wavelength intervals. Not that strong at the charger.
Greg
kilt them. ^_^
Fan noise sounds like a train, tornado. Only starts noise at some rpm, then you can hear the noise increasing pitch.
Greg
Hmmm, I am a HAM for half a century. My furnace has ECM blower motor(a DC motor) I took care of RFI concern my self with a kit. Brand of the unit is Carrier. Motor itself seldom fails, the control module does. I have
10 yr. P&L coverage but I can fix the module most likely if it fails. Another DC motor is not VS but it has speed taps like older PSC motors.
It's my understanding that the manufacturers often have an interference-suppression kit that they will send free of charge, but the consumer will still have to pay somebody to install that kit if s/he is not willing or able to do it him/herself.
Perce
I'm going to have an A/C central heat & air conditioner unit install it's g oing to be a 3 ton unit inside & outside both being replaced my sq feet in my house is like 1100 square ft .they priced me a total of $ 6,903.00 that includes checking and sealing and replacing any ducting that is damage. Is this a good price?
Are Daiken central heat & air great units to have installed when replacing central units?
Did they come look the place over before giving you an estimate? Maybe get a second estimate. Location, location, location...
That sounds like a pretty big unit for that size house. What else is going on? I had a similar Carrier installed here for about $5500 but I did some of the removal work myself.
I was thinking the same thing, unless he lives in an area that gets very hot.I always wonder if proper calculations are done. In my area, that size could be done with half that size.
Too big a unit will make it cooler but too humid. Uncomfortable.
t's going to be a 3 ton unit inside & outside both being replaced my sq fee t in my house is like 1100 square ft .they priced me a total of $ 6,903.00 that includes checking and sealing and replacing any ducting that is damage . Is this a good price?
+1 on the 3 tons for 1100 sq ft sizing sounding wrong.I have 40 years total experience with Ruud and Rheem, which are built by the same company. Very satisfied. I replaced the last AC when it was 24 years old. It was still working, only thing I ever had to do to it was put in a hard start kit.
Yup I am running 3 tons in an old 1660 sq/ft house in Florida (CBS with minimal insulation and big "Miami" windows)
I'm going to have an A/C central heat & air conditioner unit install it's going to be a 3 ton unit inside & outside both being replaced my sq feet in my house is like 1100 square ft .they priced me a total of $ 6,903.00 that includes checking and sealing and replacing any ducting that is damage. Is this a good price?
I am not HVAC guy but the square footage do not mean anything, However it would be nice to know, Insulation, Living space in Cubic footage and house configuration with size of windows, doors ETC. Your location all of this it must be known before someone can comment to your question.
Back to the beginning - a 3 ton unit is WAY too big for a 1000 sq ft house. Whoever is selling you that should be strung up and taught their business.. It will never run long enough to effectively reduce humidity.
You are right - you are not an AC guy. Sadly half the guys selling AC aren't AC guys either. It would have to be a pretty special situation to require 3 tons of AC in a house with 1000 square feet of living space - and if that case exists, he will be MUCH farther ahead remedying the situations that make that gross overkill necessary. He WILL get a lot more comfort for his dollar - both installion and operating cosr.
I just ran a basic whole house manual J on my 2 story house with finished basement in Waterloo. I was conservative - going for the low end of insulation, overestimating window space etc to make sure my requirements would err on the high side, not the low. The house is
635sq ft per floor with 7.5 foot ceilings, brick bottom, aluminum siding on top.Comes out to 24516 heating load and 8746 cooling. The furnace I installed 14 years ago is a 35000/50000 btu 2 stage - the smallest Tempstar I could buy - and the AC is a 1.5 ton and it doesn't control humidity as well as I would like because it doesn't run enough. The furnace runs on low output virtually all the time it runs - only kicks on high on a REAL cold day when warming up from setback - if then. It has always been my impressin the furnace is also oversized - supported by the Manual J calculations..
On REALLY hot humid days (95F and 95%) the AC runs about 50% of the time - 12 hours out of 24 - mabee up to 14. On REAlLY cold days - 20F, The furnace might run for 9 hours out of 24
For only 1100 square feet, you could probably get by with a couple of window AC units and space heaters :=)
My upper floor is just over 1,000 sq. ft. I have a 12,000 btu at one end, 6000 Btu at the other end The lower level is the same but has a utility area that I don't care to cool and an 8,000 Btu handles it just fine. I really question the need for 3 ton of cooling for the OP.
Yah, if I needed 3 ton of cooling for 1100 square foot, I'd be looking for better insulation.
If there's attic access, no problem for ceiling insulation. But without it, how could you improve- short of tearing the place apart?
And what about the walls in either scenario?
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