My natural gas GE water heater is leaking. I bought it and installed it myself about 9 years ago. It is still within warranty (12 year warranty) and I called the GE service hotline and the big box store where I bought it - everyone was very accommodating and I can bring in the old one and exchange it for a new one, receiving a credit of about $300. My question is whether it is worth it to do so, since it means I will wind up with another GE water heater. (They are actually made by Rheem.) Considering the effort involved in hauling the old one over there and installing the new one, I would consider forgoing the credit if there is a noticeably better option in terms of brand. So, was this one a fluke, or do they all do that? -- H
I've been told that ten years is about the limit for w.h. I lived in a home that had AO Smith x2 that each lasted about 5 years; very hard water, no softener. Do you drain it yearly?
AFAIK, Rheem is a reputable brand, but if the product doesn't have their name on it it might be of lesser quality than the ones on which they put their own name.
We recently did a preemptive/precautionary replacement of a
6-yr-warranty Ruud (also by Rheem) that was 11 years old but showed no sign of a leak even on an 80psi water supply.
People speak well of AO Smith water heaters. AFAIK the only ones bearing that name are available only through plumbers, but they make "private label" ones as well; I believe that the Sears we bought to replace the Ruud is one of theirs.
[Several decades ago in Australia I happened across a Rheem display booth in a shopping mall, where the representative asked how old our water heater was. I told him (AFAIR) that it was 12 years old, to which he responded, "Then you'll be needing a new one very soon." I told him the brand of ours (a local "no-name" brand with a 25-yr warranty), and he admitted that we would not need a new one for a long time yet. This was a 60gal (real gallons, each consisting of 8 x 20oz. pints) electric water heater that ran off cut-rate electricity that could be cut off whenever the utility company needed to reduce the load. 60gal. water heaters were the norm; some homes had 80gal. ones.
IOW, Rheem did not consider themselves to be the best available there.]
Since 1960 (our first house) we have averaged about 9 -10 years per tank here; always buying run of the mill 40 US gallon electrics. Last replacement was in the $200 - $300 range with new PR valve. Due to water quality most suppliers here will not support the manufacturers six year warranty and will only provide three years. Gas (except bottled propane) not available here.
Well, it all comes down to this: Do you want a free one or would you rather buy one? There are actually 2 or 3 manufacturers and they put on whatever label you want. I suggest getting the free one and install an expansion tank (abbout $35). (You actually do not need to return the old tank, but returning the leaking tank makes it nice). Use Sharkbite connectors and and flex connectors to make it easier next time. Yeah, I hate cold showers too.
I think mine was GE, can't remember. Anyhow, the GE guy approved my return. Return number is same as the serial number of the unit. Home Depot refunded the sale price of the tank, about $200. And then I went to the shelf to buy a new one which was about $400. I figured it was better than being told no refund, but not much better.
Unless the warranty specified a prorated price (like an automotive battery), GE should have provided you a replacement unit at no cost.
If it were me, I would have talked to a Home Despot manager. Failing resolution, even at the stage you are at now, bring up the issue with GE, mentioning things like State Attorney General, lawyers, breach of contract, your local news media, and the like. It won't take much squeaking for your wheel to be greased.
Bottom line is that it sounds like you got screwed out of the terms of your warranty, if it indeed covered replacement of the unit.
Thanks all for the responses. Looks like replacing the water heater will be tomorrow (Saturday)=92s project. I am pretty sure it is leaking from the tank; the connections are on top and there is no water there.
Similar to Stormin=92s situation, the refund amounts to about half the price of a new unit, which is certainly better than nothing. Apparently prices have risen quite a bit since 2000. I checked a couple other local big boxes and there don=92t seem to be any bargains out there.
I was inclined to doubt the quality of the unit since my perception is that our local water is pretty benign (Lake Michigan water) and water heaters usually last a long time. But maybe not. Or maybe it was lack of maintenance =96 the website on water heater rescue was very interesting. I will certainly check the anode(s) on the old unit when removing it, out of curiosity. If there is significant corrosion on it I will resolve to check it as a preventive measure in the future. When I first got my current heater I did drain it occasionally, but stopped after a couple times since there did not seem to be any sediment to speak of coming out. I=92ll see if there is any when I drain it for removal.
My GE water heaters have been failing every 4 to 5 years. GE has provided a replacement several times without charge, but it can be pain to install. But I am far ahead in terms of cost.
Thanks all for the responses. Looks like replacing the water heater will be tomorrow (Saturday)?s project. I am pretty sure it is leaking from the tank; the connections are on top and there is no water there.
Similar to Stormin?s situation, the refund amounts to about half the price of a new unit, which is certainly better than nothing. Apparently prices have risen quite a bit since 2000. I checked a couple other local big boxes and there don?t seem to be any bargains out there.
I was inclined to doubt the quality of the unit since my perception is that our local water is pretty benign (Lake Michigan water) and water heaters usually last a long time. But maybe not. Or maybe it was lack of maintenance ? the website on water heater rescue was very interesting. I will certainly check the anode(s) on the old unit when removing it, out of curiosity. If there is significant corrosion on it I will resolve to check it as a preventive measure in the future. When I first got my current heater I did drain it occasionally, but stopped after a couple times since there did not seem to be any sediment to speak of coming out. I?ll see if there is any when I drain it for removal.
Cheers and thanks again for the responses. -- H
I would do a couple of things to the new one to make future maintenance easier.
1] Pull the anode on the new one now so heat does not set the sealant they use on the threads. When you pull the old anode you will see what I mean.
2] Now is also a great time to install the full port ball valve and toss the plastic piece of junk that is on the tank.
Also report back here after you check out the old one. You might also strip the old one of its gas parts (control unit burner and thermocouple) and keep them as Murphy's law will have a water heater failure occur when you have no time to run around and look for parts and a house full of guests.
Much the same here. I did drain once in a while. I shoulda cranked that stupid valve off the bottom, and put in a full flow quarter turn valve. So I can really drain it properly, once a year. Mine leaked at the top, so not sure draining would helped.
is the new tanks warranty a pro rata? undoubtedly so but curious.
for ME having drained tanks and never found any sediment and not wanting to damage a otherwise working tank I install and forget about it tiill its getting old.
then replace on my schedule not when it leaks:)
Had one leak on christmas eve with overniite guests and company coming: (
Meet the new water heater, same as the old water heater . . . Replaced the WH on Saturday. Took the old one in to the store and got a refund, which amounted to about half the cost of the new one. I don't think it was prorated, rather, I think the price just went way up in the 9 years I had the thing. If I had had the receipt, I would have gotten $309, which sounds like the price I originally paid. Without the receipt the refund was $241, which is a percentage of 309, let's see, umm, where's my calculator? Anyway it turned out to be about half the price of the new 12-yr warrantee GE that I picked up. I'm not quibbling. But this time I did put the receipt in with the owners manual in the little bag taped to the WH.
I was not able to pull the anode rod on the old WH - I tried but it required more grip and leverage than I could muster, or rather that I was willing to spend time on. I had a hard enough time with disassembling the ancient steel piping it was attached to. (Had to use the old length of pipe over the monkey wrench handle trick.) I also did not pull the anode on the new one before installing, as one poster suggested, in the interest of getting the thing up and running before the day was over. I may regret it. I did install a new ball valve for the cold water supply shutoff, and put a drip leg on the gas supply, which lacked one before. The drain valve on this unit is a perfectly nice brass valve, I saw no reason to mess with it, especially as I will probably use it only once! Thanks to all again
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.