I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead this wee
k. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver button, and the r
emote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual do
or button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find
) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 ho
rse opener to life?
On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 4:27:56 PM UTC-5, Thomas Day wrote:
remote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual
door button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't fi
nd) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3
horse opener to life?
1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check the outp
ut for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If that checks ou
t, look closely at the control board for burns or cracked solder connection
s. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I had to replace the nylon gears o
nce in 30 yrs.
Just an FYI, Chamberlain is made by LiftMaster who also make the
Craftsman, which is why they are identical.
I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to
purchase a new opener.
I had an older Chamberlain opener years ago and changed the gears also.
The gear set was cheap though a year or two later, it stopped working
and the problem was the board. The cost of replacements was over $100,
if I recall correctly, because the price difference between the board
and a new unit was within $50 +/-. Therefore, I decided on a new "MY Q"
unit and glad I did.
Since I had a much older unit, the board was more expensive. I would
think the boards of a newer unit would still be used in other units and
Overall,you're correct,it is cheaper to replace the board than an entire
opener, but in my case, within a few dollars, a new unit was better.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one willing to spend time my repairing our
I've got a 30 year olde Craftsman opener and I recall that about 20
years ago one of the transformer pin to PC board solder joints cracked,
probably due to the weight of the transformer hanging sideways off the
I re-soldered that joint,and the other transformer pins too just to
"make sure" and epoxied stuck something on to help support the
transformer to keep that from happening again
About five years ago the gear finally gave up and I was amazed that I
could pick up a replacement through the parts department of a local
Sears store for about nine bucks.
I put the gear in and the opener is still working fine.
That gear was worn so badly I couldn't resist snapping a photo of it
which I titled "Toothless". I still have it here:
Interesting the way it left those little flaps on some of the teeth.
If I remember right right mine looked more ground up.
Yep, some of us will try to fix anything.
I've got some nice high end PC speakers where the woofer started making
a loud rumbling noise. Not sure what that could be, but I'll
probably at least disassemble it before buying a new one.
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