I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead this wee k. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver button, and the r emote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual do or button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find ) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 ho rse opener to life?
eek. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't fi nd) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to life?
1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check the outp ut for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If that checks ou t, look closely at the control board for burns or cracked solder connection s. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I had to replace the nylon gears o nce in 30 yrs.
Just an FYI, Chamberlain is made by LiftMaster who also make the Craftsman, which is why they are identical.
I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to purchase a new opener.
Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board. (Separate incidents.) I don't remember the board being that expensive. It's certainly less work to do just the board.
I had an older Chamberlain opener years ago and changed the gears also. The gear set was cheap though a year or two later, it stopped working and the problem was the board. The cost of replacements was over $100, if I recall correctly, because the price difference between the board and a new unit was within $50 +/-. Therefore, I decided on a new "MY Q" unit and glad I did.
I also wanted to add, I would believe it depends on the age of the unit. Since I had a much older unit, the board was more expensive. I would think the boards of a newer unit would still be used in other units and readily available.
Overall,you're correct,it is cheaper to replace the board than an entire opener, but in my case, within a few dollars, a new unit was better.
I have one sitting on my bench as we speak. The board is about $80 on the sites I have looked at
Confirming power was my first thought.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one willing to spend time my repairing our household stuff.
I've got a 30 year olde Craftsman opener and I recall that about 20 years ago one of the transformer pin to PC board solder joints cracked, probably due to the weight of the transformer hanging sideways off the vertical board.
I re-soldered that joint,and the other transformer pins too just to "make sure" and epoxied stuck something on to help support the transformer to keep that from happening again
About five years ago the gear finally gave up and I was amazed that I could pick up a replacement through the parts department of a local Sears store for about nine bucks.
I put the gear in and the opener is still working fine.
That gear was worn so badly I couldn't resist snapping a photo of it which I titled "Toothless". I still have it here:
Jeff
Interesting the way it left those little flaps on some of the teeth. If I remember right right mine looked more ground up.
Yep, some of us will try to fix anything.
I've got some nice high end PC speakers where the woofer started making a loud rumbling noise. Not sure what that could be, but I'll probably at least disassemble it before buying a new one.
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