Ok, so can I replace my own water heater?

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I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've read it should go up an inch every four feet.
The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.
And gas does scare me just a wee bit.
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carbon monoxide should scare you a lot. Make real sure you know what your doing or at least have a professional handle that part of the job
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On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:58:00 -0400, "RBM" <rbm2(remove

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_04233926000P?vName=Appliances&cName=Water+Heaters&keyword=miser
It will fit. Not the most efficient one on the market but it's as good as what I have now. Especially considering I never drained the current one and it must have a fair amount of sediment in it by now.
I think I can get away with a 58" though. I have to check again. It means cutting 1" off the existing connection and that can be done.
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Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big box stores.
Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions of the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as you do your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the hardware store.
Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or female thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on any pipe thread connections you make, and tighten things well. (careful on the heater itself) Don't disturb any pipe joints you want to keep. Use 2 wrenches to avoid twisting them.
Bob
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Mix some dishwashing soap with water and paint it on all joints after tightening. Active bubbling means you have a leak.
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Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. <rolleyes> Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into the valve!!! They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking. This is one task that should be left to a professional!!
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What did you do?
-- Oren
"I didnt say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you."
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4ax.com:

--
---
there should be a "sig" here
  Click to see the full signature.
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Replaced the heater with a new unit. As it's not economical to install a new gas control on an old unit. Plus, there was other issues that needed to be addressed.
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Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there. That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.
Bob
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Bob F wrote:

OK, accident can happen. If you ddi it yourself(not being licenced pro) when something goes wrong, insurance becomes invalid. If pro did the job, you can still claim for the loss or damage.
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wrote:
[snip]

Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the fire department).
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Show me documentation that this really happened. It is pretty hard to believe.
Bob
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Bob F wrote:

Can't you imagine? 50 pounds of water pressure agains 2 ounces of gas pressure? Everybody on the block with liquid-squirting pilot lights?
What a hoot!
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HeyBub wrote:

Interesting thought, but it would probably stop at the regulator.
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Never dealt with gas pressure on a main line, Eh?
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kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

No, never have.
Tell us about your experiences.
Please limit it to the last ten times.
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wrote:

I hear way too much stuff to keep track of all the details. That could be something from the Darwin Awards. I've recently read a lot of those.
Stupidity is often hard to believe, but it happens anyway.
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Especially considering that the lines have differences sizes and threads. You'd have to spend a few hours down at the local home depot looking through the wall of couplers and adapters to find the two or three adapters you have to tie together to adapt the gas line to a water in/outlet.
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Really???
Water inlet/outlet 3/4 NPT Gas connection 1/2 NPT
One little 1/2 - 3/4 bushing is all one needs...
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