Oil to Gas Heat Conversion

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I was told that I couldn't convert my heating system to gas because
"my chimney won't tolerate the exaust heat"
I would appreciate any opinion on this.
Thanks in advance.
Bruce
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This concerns fire safety. You can get specific information (usually without charge) from the municipal building permits office and/or the local fire brigade.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
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On Thu, 3 May 2012 06:53:21 -0400, "Don Phillipson"

If it is good enough for an old oil furnace, adding a stainless steel liner pipe will definitely make it safe for gas, heat-wize.
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I have no info for you, but I can guess that the first two questions you're going to get here are: What kind of heating do you have now? What sort of chimney do you have?
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+1 to that.
But in general it sounds like BS to me. Any heating system you buy today is going to be a lot more efficient than the one it replaces. And that should mean cooler exhaust temps, not higher ones. With a high efficiency condensing system, the exhaust gases are so cool that 1 1/2" or 3" PVC pipe is used to vent the unit directly outside without a chimney.
Now it's entirely possible that he could have a crap chimney that is in such a sorry state that it won't pass inspection. That would prevent any new unit, oil or gas from being installed.
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On Thu, 3 May 2012 05:47:54 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net"

Unless it didn't need the chimney, as stated above.
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My bad. I failed to note the title of the thread...
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Could be BS as many conversions have been done over the years. If you have an old heater, it may be a poor choice. If you get a new heater, it will be more efficient and no chimney needed.
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Gas runs cooler than oil. In the past gas required a double wall class-B metal chimney and oil required an insulated class-A chimney. A masonry chimney could be used if it was lined, water would condense out of the gas exhaust and damage unlined mortar joints until it leaked through to the outside.
Now gas condensing furnaces/boilers need only a plastic pipe. Don't listen to the idiot who told you that, ask people who know the real answer, and can give you solutions.
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On 5/3/2012 9:31 AM, EXT wrote:

+1
Most brand new gas condensing furnaces exhaust out thru 4 " plastic pipe (636 it's called), rated for 65 C, not sure what that is in F. Chimneys are no longer required for high efficiency furnaces, and to honest, are they still allowed to sell furnaces under 92 AFUE where you are because they are not. My gas exhaust pipe just runs along some floor joists and out the wall for a total 20' run.
These days gas furnace exhausts alot more steam than anything else.
There may be government rebates in your area regarding furnace replacement. Research them.
Sounds like you got to find some more guys in your area who can give you several options.
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EXT wrote:

Speaking of class B (or Type B) metal chimneys, I am in the middle of trying to get one figured out. I'll post a new thread about my situation and questions.

I my case, I couldn't change my boiler to a high efficiency direct-vent system without a huge expense because I have a one-pipe steam radiator heating system. They don't make high efficiency direct-vent steam boilers and changing over to a hot water system wouldn't work because I have one-pipe (not two-pipe) radiators now.
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OK - a totally different situation. You wanted to convert your BURNER from oil to gas. Chimney liner.
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Steam heat. Real boiler.
There is a way to extract additional heat, just like the hot air furnace works, additional hot air heat extractor. You would need at least one complete air ducting. With steam the heat coming out of the chimney is going to be around 210 degrees or higher, if it's boiling.
Greg
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On might want to pump that through a heat exchanger to a large water tank. There must be a way to save and use those calories being wasted up the chimney.
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On Sat, 5 May 2012 18:35:02 -0500, "Attila.Iskander"

One of the reasons real "steam" heat is virtually extinct today.
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I hope you will reply back with some additional information regarding what type of heating system you have now (such as steam, hot water, or hot air -- if steam, one-pipe or two-pipe radiator system), how many BTU's your heater and hot water heater are, what diameter connector pipes go into your present chimney, and what type of chimney you have now.
Bruce K. wrote:

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On 5/3/2012 5:34 AM, Bruce K. wrote:

So you switch to a high-efficiency gas furnace that vents out the wall and bypasses the chimney entirely. That's how high-efficiency gas furnaces work.
Before I switched to a high-efficiency furnace, the installer for the prior gas furnace expressed some doubts about the heat integrity of my chimney. He installed a liner in it. Problem solved.
There you go - two solutions that let you get what you want.
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On 5/3/2012 5:34 AM, Bruce K. wrote:

You can always have the installer put a liner in the chimney.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
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On Thu, 03 May 2012 06:34:16 -0400, Bruce K.

Two words - BEE ESS. You can ALWAYS go to a chimney-less condensing gas system that exhausts through the wall, just above ground level, with a 2 inch pipe that never gets hot enough to soften, or even be uncomfortably warm if touched.
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Most likely not from the heat but from the moisture
Also modern high-efficiency gas furnaces will shove less heat up a chimney an old, less efficient, oil furnace. Why not look at a high performance gas furnace that does NOT need a chimney and has both vent and air intake to the side of the house ?
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