Offset Toilet Floor Flange - Slab

Trying to replace a toilet. I bought the new Champion by American Standard, we had 2 at the last house. When trying to mount it the left bolt through the flange was at an angle, it's back a little too far. No I can't adjust it, that's as far as it will slide due to the way the flange was installed.

So, I put the old toilet seat back on. Seemed Ok, no leaks, until you use another drain in the house, then sewer gas comes up.

Also, the left side of the flange is cracked where the bolt goes through.

So, I want to replace the flange, but I can't. I did this on my last house that was a crawl space, but can't figure out how to do this one because of 2 things.

  1. Concrete slab. Not sure how to get to it, where to cut off the old section, etc.

  1. This is the BIG problem, the current flange is Round of course on the Outside where the bolts go, however the Inside Hole is Oblong. The actual drain hole is in the front, Not in the center of the flange.

I believe #2 is why the sewer gas problem. I used a standard wax ring, when I removed the toilet again tonight, I saw the front of the toilet the wax ring still looked like new. So, hopefully just a Jumbo would fix that part of the problem.

Any ideas how to replace the flange or how to get a bolt to line up with the current on on the left side?

I took pictures if anyone wants to see exactly what I am talking about. I did stop by Lowe's on the way home tonigh and bought 4 different flanges, none of them will fit.

Thanks in advance! Sam

Reply to
Go Bucks!
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You'll need to find out what pipe material your flange is connected to. Plastic? Lead? Cast Iron?

Browse this array of repalcement flanges:

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you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

flanges:

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If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Sorry, should have mentioned that, it is plastic

Reply to
Go Bucks!

flanges:

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> If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

I posted pics of the strange flange I have.

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I'm looking through the website now.

Thanks,

Reply to
Go Bucks!

flanges:

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>>If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

Looked at your photo. The outlet looks to be small diameter. Not 2" pipe is it? Or, 3" with the flange outlet *inside* the pipe?

You may have to replace with the exact same flange due to the offset. And that means "ungluing" the joint between flange and pipe. How you do that will depend on whether the connection is inside or outside the pipe.

There are "inside" cutters made for plastic pipe if it comes to that.

Or you might have to chisel away the remnants of the flange and then dig out the slab around the pipe a bit.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

flanges:

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>>>If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

It seems to be a 3 inch and I can't tell if it's an inside our outside the pipe connection.

I eMailed the company from the link you sent. If they don't have something or Lowe's/Home Depot doesn't, I may just get a smaller toilet. etc that lines up ok.

Thanks, Sam

Reply to
Go Bucks!

flanges:

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>>>> If you can't find one to do the job, chop up the slab :-)

I needed to move a toilet about 2" to the right during a remodel ... concrete floor, cast iron flange and cast iron pipe. I rented an electric jack hammer and chiseled out around the old flange. I had to use a kludge cutoff wheel connect to a slowed down router to cut the cast pipe about 3" below the top of the concrete floor. Anyway, this is similar but somewhat different. I used a PVC flange like yours with the piece of PVC going into the cast pipe with a rubber conversion sleeve. Because you have PVC pipe, you can use a coupling and a piece of pipe, all below the surface, to connect to a new flange. I then, some concrete to patch up the hole. It wasn't easy, but it did work well. It was a lot of work for 2", but it made a bad, too small powder room into a really nice room. Your job will probably be just as difficult.

Reply to
Art Todesco

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