Well, new to me, anyway. Probably just ignored previous notice because of
In Harbor Freight's circular promoting their Sidewalk Sale March 8-10, they
12" Sliding, Compound, DOUBLE-BEVEL Miter Saw (with laser guide). Regular
price: $199.99, web sale price: $169.99, Sidewalk Sale price $119.99!
What's different from a regular or sliding miter saw is, when looking
straight at it (not down), the blade will rotate 45d clockwise and
counter-clockwise. Check the small pictures at:
Competitor's offerings are in the $400-$600 range (DeWalt $399, Bosch $539,
Craftsman $599, Northern Tool $399, Jet $739)
I just looked at the reviews listed on the site, It says that there
is no blade brake. I'm not sure if I would buy one for that reason.
I'm used to sticking my hand down there pretty quick. No brake may
mean getting my hand cut.
Many old school carpenters tie the blade guard back on the power saws
they use. When I worked as an electrician on construction sites, one
of my jobs was repairing the sliced power cords on the power saws. I
let the medics take care of cut dumb asses. ^_^
I can't see the ad but my 10" HF has a blade guard. The brake isn't so
important. The HF saw is good enough for building the shed out back
but for woodworking, not so much. You really can't compare a $100 HF
saw to a $500 Bosch (and $600 for a Crapsman is *nuts*).
On 2/22/2013 12:21 PM, email@example.com wrote:
As is generally so, their sale pricing is competitive...it's available
at the moment for $450. I don't know whose saw this one models;
generally the Craftsman-labeled stuff pretty much matches one of the
other commercial models for features, design, etc...
On 02/22/2013 10:21 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
My 12" HF (orange compound slider model) has a blade guard that
automatically retracts when the saw is lowered, so it pretty much never
gets in the way.
I like the design, and have been very happy with the saw.
I've used my Delta miter saw for cutting long lengths of 3/4" steel
rod into 1" sections for making round nuts. I have no proof other than
my experiences with other HF power tools, but I'm guessing that a $120
HF miter saw would not stand up to the abuse I've put my Delta saw
re: Northern Tool $399
What Northern Tool miter saw are you referring to? Klutch is a
Northern Tool "brand" as is NorthStar. The only miter saw I found
under those brands is a $149 Klutch.
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 12:14:28 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
Probably, as long as you're not concerned about accuracy. As I said
in another post, the HF saws aren't terrible, at all. The problem is
that they're a PITA to adjust and they won't hold their accuracy.
They're plenty good for framing but compound miters will be painful.
Nice FUD there, Ed. My HF miter saw cuts square and true, with accuracy
only limited to my desire to line up the cut with the blade.
If I was a contractor I'd buy a PRO quality tool, but my limited needs
are served just fine with the HF unit.
Not true. The arm/rail is not perfectly rigid, the bearings are not
perfectly true, and the latches have hysterisis. Even if you could
set it up perfectly (you can't - there aren't the adjustments), it
wouldn't hold them for a cut. Errors add up.
That may be true and for framing, it probably is. They're not so good
for finish work, though. Note that I have their 10" SMCS and it's
well worth the $100 I paid for it ten years ago. It's no match for my
Bosch, though (and the Bosch is far from perfect). Yes, I still use
I'm confused. How can a miter saw be off ± 1/4"?
If I draw a line and line up the blade with that line, it's going to be as
accurate as my measurement and my eye.
If I use a stop block for multiple cuts, it's going to be as accurate as my
ability to position the stop block in the correct position.
Are you saying that the blade of a HF miter saw is going to shift ± 1/4"
Here's a tip for shaving just a bit off of a board with a miter saw:
Lower the blade to the lowest position. Slide the workpiece along the table
until it exerts a very small amount of sideways pressure on the blade.
Holding the wood firmly in position, raise the blade, start the saw and
bring it back down. You'll shave off just a minuscule amount of wood.
On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 22:26:33 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
I'm talking in generalities, many tools, not just your saw. Yes, a
stop block solves most of the problems, but any saw can have a tiny
shift from stroke to stroke, but we don't use micrometers for wood
I've seen low priced tools that are crap. I've seen low price tools
that are identical to the ones selling for 3X the price, the only
difference is the nameplate. I've seen low priced tools that do an
excellent job. You have to use care in selecting them.
I see what you are saying, however, many woodworkers do use micrometers, as
well as dial indicators. I do.
Just some examples...
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