If there is a hole or crack in the heat exchanger, anyone servicing the
unit has an obligation to turn the gas off, red tag it, and document it
with the owner's signature on it. If that is not done, and later when
there is a fire or CO problem, guess who will be held responsible.
Does the Amana estimate include the evaporator coil? If not, it is
nearly $1000 more that the Trane. Amana IMO makes a good furnace, but
it is really pretty much a Goodman. Assuming the same quality of
instalation, I would expect it to be somewhat less than a Trane, not $1k
more. Whether to go with 80% or 90% all depends on where you are
located. I am in S.Tx and there are probably not a dozen 90's here. Up
north, a 90 would be the only thing to conside.
As always. the installation is the most important part of the equation.
Make sure the installer pulls a permit and gets all the proper
inspections done. This is important in any situation, but with you
planning on selling the house relatively soon, it will almost certainly
bite you in the butt if you don't. Larry
The gas company came this morning and confirmed the problem. He walked
in with his detector and it was beeping. He went to the furnace and
took some readings up there and the detector he used for that has an
LCD display that read 5. He also turned off the emergency switch and
said not to turn it back on. I showed him my quotes and he was
satisfied that I was acting to correct the problem. He told me to get
out my space heaters and use them.
I called one of the contractors and they are coming by today with extra
space heaters and to take measurements. This contractor is reputable,
has been around our area for a long time and has been recommended to me
by co-workers in the past. I have no reason to doubt my furnace is bad
now, it's just more an issue of getting my family comfortable soon.
I'd have to say, whoever this contractor is, that's probably the
furnace I'd buy. I've been getting estimates for about a year now,
and asking advice everywhere I can regarding brands, etc., and the
most consistent advice I've received is to choose the replacement
based on the contractor. The consensus seems to be that getting it
installed right and having solid servicing available for if/when there
is a problem should be the deciding factors.
By the way, cracked heat exchanger does not necessarily = leaking CO.
It is possible for there to be a crack that is not split apart, i.e.,
problem waiting to happen, but not a problem currently. I've even had
one of the inspectors/estimators tell me it's not unusual to see that
in relatively new units. Yes, I'm using detectors throughout the
house, yes they are the kind that display the history and aren't
battery-dependent, and yes, each and every one of them reads zero all
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