On Thu, 10 Dec 2015 18:22:36 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
It aint MEK., and yes, low speed is required because if you burn the
rubber the tire is FUBAR. Best thing for "grinding" the liner is a
prep disk on a low speed die grinder or air drill.. Use a PROPER
PREBUFF cleaner, or a pure hydrocarbon solvent like napyha , white
gas, or even TRicor. (all components of the major tire repair
companies' pre-buff cleaners).
In a pinch, use tire patch glue ans scrape it off with a razor blade.
Darn. Someone said it was MEK.
That was good to hear because MEK is easy to come by.
But, if it's not MEK, then we have to start anew to figure out what
it is that we can find in a common hardware store.
Makes sense not to want to melt the rubber.
How does 500 RPM sound for speed?
I have seen those half-round grinding disks which seem like a nice
thing to have in my toolbox for cleaning the inside of the tire.
This makes sense, especially since you already have the glue on hand,
and, as noted by someone, the remainder of the glue will likely dry
well before you ever get to use it again, so, you may as well use
Most chemicals don't know what company they work for, so,
while I fully and completely *understand* your concerns about
having all the chemicals coming in the same color can, I
pretty much consider naptha from brand A to be the same as
naptha from brand b.
I don't buy scared.
The carbide bit is usually set to about 2000 to 5000 rpm in
most of the professional descriptions; it's the half-round
rasper that seems to be set really slowly at 500 rpm.
The pre-buff step can be skipped, as the main purpose seems
to be to prevent the half-round rasper from getting clogged,
which is something of import to a guy who fixes tires all
day, but which is far less important to a guy who only
repairs his tires once every three years.
My tire went flat and I drove about a mile as it was losing air:
I brought the wheel to Wheel Works, who will repair the puncture
using an internal patchplug, and they will mount and balance and
rotate the tire with the spare, all for free:
Unfortunately, the tire was ruined by my driving on it:
They told me that they can't fix a tire with the belt showing:
Given the tire is ruined, I decided to experiment with patches:
Here is one type of patchplug:
Here is another type of patchplug:
I bought a few tools, such as the stitching tool & cement:
And, I plan on experimenting to see which type works best:
Here is one of the better videos on how to properly repair a hole:
Here are the tools that this video recommends:
a. Tire repair awl
b. Half-moon scraper
c. Carbide bit reamer
d. Cone-shaped grinding wheel (<5,000RPM)
f. Stitching tool
I tried to find these tools locally, but I may need to buy online:
Here are the chemicals that this video recommends:
a. Westernweld Inner Liner Pre-Buff Solution Redi-Buff BU32 or BU16S
b. Westernweld Self-Vulcanizing Fast Drying Cement SV8 or SV32
c. Westernweld Inner Liner Sealer RS8 or RS32
I tried to find them locally, but again, I may need to buy online:
I will call the company recommended in that video to find a source
for the three chemicals and for the half-dozen tire-repair tools:
Western States Mfg 800-831-4724 www.westernweld.com
Any corrections, clarifications, or further advice is always welcome.
I think most home users skip a few steps.
The question is whether those skipped steps are crucial.
This video shows how to use (what they call) a plugpatch
in which they use the following tools and materials:
A. Half-moon scraper
B. Carbide cutter <== appears critical to use!
C. Tungsten conical rasp
D. Stitch roller
a. liquid buffer
b. super valkarn g vulcanizing cement
d. PW-3505 Plug Patch
1. Remove offending object from the tire & inspect inside
2. Mark outside crossshatch and inside circle
3. Spray liquid buffer & scape with half-moon scraper
4. Carbide cutter to 500 RPM (very slow speed!)
5. Conical Tungsten rasp at 500RPM on inside circle
6. Vacuum or brush away buffing dust
7. Vulcanizing cement applied and dried to the tire & hole
8. Vulcanizing cement applied and dried to the plugpatch taper
9. Insert and pull wire until the patch dimples
10. Stich with a roller from the inside out of the patch
11. Restore overbuffed area with seal liner
12. Cut off the plug from the outside
Most homeowners seem to skip a *lot* of steps!
Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 09 Dec 2015 04:37:23 +0000:
Since vulcanizing cement is easy to come by, the
problem, it seems, for homeowners, is getting small
quantities of the two fluids:
a. buffer spray
b. inner liner sealer <=== this is the most critical
Also a couple of the basic tools are hard to come by:
A. Half-moon scraper
B. Carbide reamer <=== this is the most critical
C. Conical rasp
I called Western States at 800-831-4724, but they only
They suggested Bomgaards http://www.bomgaars.com but
they don't seem to have stores in California.
Given that the carbide reamer and the inner liner
sealer are the most critical tools, what would you
use for the carbide reamer?
NOTE: The spiral reamer that comes with most outside
plug kits doesn't look *anything* like the smooth
fluted carbide reamer in the videos, where the goal
is to smooth the cut edges of the belts I believe.
Thank you for that reference.
That site has a lot of details for each fluid.
They have vulcanizing fluids and cements for example:
However, the vulcanizing cement is easy to come by; but the black
goopy final inner liner sealer (tar?) is the hardest to find on the street.
I think this is that sealer (Butyl Liner Repair Sealer):
It's made by Tech International, 200 E. Coshocton St., Johnstown, Ohio 43031,
740-967-9015, and also listed by Chemtrec 1-800-424-9300. So I will call
them tomorrow to ask where I can get small quantities and what is a suitable
The ingredients on the MSDS don't tell me much:
50 to 100% solvent naphtha (petroleum blend), light
Does anyone on this newsgroup know of any commonly available substitute
for this black goopy inner liner sealer?
Danny D. wrote, on Thu, 10 Dec 2015 00:30:03 +0000:
This seems to be the inner liner sealer goopy tar.
But I don't know if there is a box store equivalent.
$1 per ounce:
$2 per ounce:
I still haven't been able to figure out what this stuff is
made up of, and where I can get it at reasonable prices in
small quantities at the box stores.
On Thu, 10 Dec 2015 18:26:46 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
It is a butyl rubber sealer containing hydro treated heavy parafinic
petroleum distilates, carbon black, di(benzothiazol-2-yl) disulphide,
and zinc oxide along with butyl rubber resin.
It is made for the job, and you would be far better off not using
anything (the way it has been done for many years by many tire repair
professionals) than using something untied and unproven in it's place.
Like I said before: "Dont screw with tire repairs" "It's only your
life riding on that repair"
Either do it right, or get it done.
Criminal negligence charges stay with you for life if you happen to
survive and someone else doesn't
On Thu, 10 Dec 2015 17:17:09 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
He's only trying to plug a hole the "right way." Nothing wrong with
that. I think it's a bit impractical, but that's just my opinion.
And I don't agree with your "criminal negligence charges" for plugging
a tire. A tire plug is a simple repair. Might as well say you can't
work on your suspension or gas tank or electrical system.
If someone who is not a licenced machanic does repairs on a car and
those repairs cause a fatal or serious injury accident he CAN be
charged with criminal negligence or criminal negligence causing death.
Tires are one of the most critical safety items on a car - along with
brakes and steering. Anyone who has to ask numerous times for
information about doing those jobs, and then totally ignores advice
from "professionals" with decades of experience should most definitely
NOT be working on those parts of a car - and if he does, and causes
serious injury or death - he is guilty of at least terminal stupidity
if not criminal negligence. Too bad stupidity isn't illegal.
At least unlike genius, stupidity is ultimately self limiting.
Whom are you talking about?
I haven't ignored a single thing said in this thread.
I have been very responsive, and I have added value wherever I could.
In fact, I think, based on the advice, and the research I did, and
my talking with the guys at Goodyear, Wheelworks, and Costco today,
that I know *exactly* how to properly repair a punctured tire.
Let's repeat that we are not in a ladies' knitting group.
The whole point of the repair and tech group is to discuss such things.
There is nothing wrong with learning tricks for doing the job safely
For example, I wonder if a masonry nail can suffice for a poor-man's
alternative to the carbide drill bit?
What do you think, given the purpose is to smooth the cut belts?
Wolfgang wrote, on Fri, 11 Dec 2015 10:58:14 -0500:
That is a good point.
The Dunning-Kruger effect should be known to *all* of us.
There are many ways to summarize the Dunning-Kruger effect, but, one
way, that relates to your comment above, is that the more we know,
the more we realize that we don't know.
Another way to summarize Dunning-Kruger is to say that only a
fool thinks he knows everything.
On Thu, 10 Dec 2015 21:20:42 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Bullshit. Before he's done, he'll know far more about how to
correctly plug a tire than 99% of the so-called "professionals,"
who are mostly kids working in various tire chain stores.
He's overkilling it, and so are you.
When did they outlaw amateur DIY car repairs?
Why do they sell plug kits at all auto parts stores?
I've bought them, and plugged tires with them.
email@example.com posted for all of us...
All the time he wasted on asking questions and arguing with you he could
have spent he could have made a freek'n tire himself. I'm surprised no one
local to him just didn't give the tire a sidewall aneurysm.
Clare, you are absolutely correct that his survivors will end up in court
after his "patch" fails. Our shop worked on cop cars and occasionally state
police troopers would come in. "NO plugs patches only" I wouldn't want crap
on my car at 120 and they didn't get it either.
There are things called ethics and morals which DD doesn't seem to
comprehend. Only DISCOUNT, FREE, CHEAPER. He knows it all, except...
Tekkie® wrote, on Sat, 12 Dec 2015 16:33:59 -0500:
What you're saying, in effect, is that you feel all the time *wasted* [sic]
on *thinking*, is wasted effort, in your mind.
And that's fine, because it's *your* mind that thinks that way.
My mind "wastes" time on thinking things through. Thank you.
What I love about knowing how to do something is that you
then know whether the pro is following the rules or not.
Most often, sadly, they skip many steps, mainly because they
really don't care.
But you'd never know, unless you knew enough to know.
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