I'm gonna patch my first automotive tire this week.
I need your advice on a good inside automotive tire patch
as I got a flat today, switched with the spare, and went
about a half mile to the nearest auto parts store.
All they had are bike-tire-type patches at the one auto parts
store I stopped at today; they only had crappy passenger tire
patches (little round things, very thin).
I prefer rectangular-cut larger patches (dunno why - I just
feel they might hold better). Those that are something like
three or four inches long or so.
I can easily remove the tire and replace it on the rim
and balance it afterward so this question is only about
the patch. I do not want to patch it from the outside
because I feel that isn't as good as from inside.
Where do you get your inside-tire automotive tire patches?
What type of patch/glue/prep do you recommend?
The "patch-plug" is the ideal tire repair as it combines the best elements of the patch and plug worlds; the patch keeps the plug from shifting out of place, and the plug helps the patch to stay secure to the tire.
WWS TEXAS wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 08:57:48 -0800:
I didn't know those existed, so thank you very much for the idea!
Googling for "automotive tire patch plug" I see that the Rubber
Manufacturers Association recommends them (www.betiresmart.org).
I found the repair procedure here:
I found a "steelman" brand 1/8th inch tire repair patch/plug unit.
Is that a good brand?
STEELMAN JSG381 1/8-Inch Tire Repair Patch/Plug
Do you suggest any specific glues or tools that might not come
with the patchplug set?
Out here, at $100/hour shop rates, it could easily cost more just
for the labor, plus you have to rebalance and they often destroy
the valve and they are brutal on your expensive soft rims!
I'm sick and tired of the brutish monkeys prying off my BBS
hubcaps with screwdrivers, damaging the soft rims, torquing
the lug bolts to 100 foot pounds instead of 84, not removing
the old weights when balancing, putting the same psi into
all four wheels, etc. They're just horrid.
So, I'm just gonna do it myself.
But that takes knowledge, so, I'm glad you pointed me to that
web page. It shows that you don't want *air* to get in between
the plies, so that's important to put the plug in there to
prevent air from sneaking in between the plies.
They call them "mushroom" patches in that article and they
say that the patch keeps air in and the plug keeps air and
moisture out of the plies.
I just want to do the job right, instead of letting the monkeys
do the job wrong. This will take all the advice you know of!
the exterior and NTW (believe Sears owned) said they had to patch from
My flat was on a Sunday and I took it to NTW as dealer where I bought
tires and repairs my car was closed.
I had extended warranty as AWD on Subaru requires all 4 tires are equal.
Company would not honor warranty since I did not return to where I
bought them but the shop where I bought them reimbursed me.
I make every mistake you can make, and I've made that buying tires
by warranty mistake also. In addition, I bought the useless extended
Once I tried to return a tire I thought wore too early and the tire
under warranty would cost MORE than a tire NOT under warranty because
I had to have THEM do it, and I had to pay for the mounting and
balancing and I originally bought it on sale where it was no longer
on sale (although I could get it from Tire Rack cheaper!).
End result, even *with* the pro-rated warranty, the replacement tire
under warranty cost more than that same tire (same exact brand and
model!) not on warranty!
Likewise, I have paid for the extended warranty, which, when you bring
a tire back, they told me that alignment wasn't covered (which may
be true - but then why did I bother). So I never buy extended or
by warranty ever again.
Also, I used to get tires at Costco for the "free" mounting and
balancing and repair, but, unfortunately, the *wait* at Costco is
forever (hours and hours) so it's not worth it unless you drop it
off and come back (which isn't convenient for me).
So, I forgo all warranties and just buy tires from Tire Rack by
performance and price and fit. And I mount them myself now that
Harbor Freight sells that nice red mounting kit. And I balance
them statically, very carefully - and since they have expensive
rims, they're almost perfect and don't vibrate at all. Who knew
that dynamic balancing was a waste? I didn't. Until I tried the
Which so far works perfectly for me.
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:40:21 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
ballance but caused severe high speed shimmy. I've even balanced tires
that had been "road force balanced and still shook - and gotten rid of
the shake. I used to balance within 1/8 ounce and could get a V rated
tire dead smooth to over 140MPH.
Try that with a bubble ballancer. Particualarly on something like a
I know. I know. I know. I know.
I know what you're saying even BEFORE you said it.
All I can tell you is that I bought the tools.
I then mounted only 5 tires on BBS rims with the HF mounting tool.
I balanced each one meticulously with a static balancer from HF.
And my car does NOT shake shimmy or vibrate at any speed.
What does *that* tell you?
If my car shook, shimmied, or vibrated, *then* I would start looking
at balance (among a ton of other things like suspension and tire pressure
differences and tread differences and shocks, alignment, etc.).
That's all I can tell you.
Clearly, if my tire vibrated at speed, I would take it to a shop, and
pay them $30 to test ride the car, and then they would *tell* me if
it was alignment or balance or a worn suspension, etc.
What I'm saying is that you do NOT need to ALWAYS dynamically balance.
If you mount your own tires, you get the CHOICE.
I do realize that if you have a shop do your tires (which 99.99999% of
you do), then dynamic balance is thrown in with the standard charge, so
there is no sense in NOT getting dynamically balanced.
But, in "my" case, dynamic balancing would be a waste.
Or, are you saying, that I secretly have a vibration that I don't
know about yet?
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 21:33:33 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
Some tires give you a choice. Some don't
I have installed sets of tires that didn't even need ANY balancing to
run at extra-legal speeds with no shake - but they are extremely rare.
I've likely installed as many sets of tires as anyone here on this
list - some years installing over 1800 sets .
Most years of my 25 "active" years well over 400 sets.
I've used bubble balancers, on-car spin ballancers, and computerized
dynamic ballancers from at least 4 manufacturers.
A large percentage of tires have a significant dynamic inballance.
Some cars are not fussy about dynamic balance - others are very fussy.
I only have experience with a sum total of five (5) tires.
And, so far, they've balanced just fine with my HF static balancer.
As I said, I have BBS wheels (standard BMW issue) so maybe that plays a role.
Also, the 5 tires were all bought at the same time from Tire Rack.
Dunno if that has an effect at all (probably not).
I removed all the weights first.
I then balanced them (none needed more than a short strip of weights).
Pretty much that was it.
Car never vibrated.
If it did, I'd take it to the shop.
But it didn't.
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 01:11:02 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
My guess? Continentals or some other tire that lists at $200 or so
each.. And you got lucky that they needed a multiple of 1/2 ounce to
You get a tire that needs 1.75 to 2 ounces to static, and it may need
4 to dynamic balance it. You might have 1.5 on the outside at one
spot, and half way around the tire another 2.5 to 3 on the inside.
Get that on the front of a twitchy little sedam like a BMW320 with
only a static ballance, and your hands will get a good massage from
the steering wheel, even if the bumper doesn't jump.
Tony Hwang wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 16:00:22 -0700:
I think we misunderstood each other.
I am a typical BMW owner who mounts and balances his own tires.
I know all about the red and yellow dots on most new tires.
Here is how I mounted and balanced my tires to minimize weights:
1. I removed the old tires & all the old weights.
2. I washed the five rims & located the match mounting dot on the rims.
3. I located both the red and yellow dots on my new tire sidewalls.
4. I leveled all five of the empty clean weightless rims.
5. I placed them in order of worst to best, with worst being the spare.
6. I chose the two best new tires for the front (yellow/red being closest).
7. I mounted and balanced those two best tires to the two best rims.
8. I mounted and balanced the next-best tires to the next-best rims.
9. I mounted and balanced the worst tire & worst rim for the spare.
10. In each case, I paired the red dot with the valve stem for allow wheels.
I then took the vehicle out for a high-speed run.
Had it vibrated, I would have then taken the vehicle in to a shop to
ascertain if the vibration were due to:
a. Suspension components
b. Steering components
d. Wheels & tires
What exactly do you find wrong with my procedure?
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