Mud bottom of drywall?


On new installation do you level out the bottom 4" of the sheetrock flat to match with the rest of the surface for the new base molding?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
# Fred # wrote:

Yes. Otherwise the base molding will not be vertical and coves and miters will be a b***h to prepare and look weird. That's why some installers prefer wallboard installed vertically. The choice may come down to prevailing labor rates for drywallers. Many opine that horizontal installation is cheaper and in some cases it might be. Whatever, it would be interesting to have the views of finish carpenter subs and drywaller subs on the matter. HTH
Joe
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Joe wrote:

The inside and outside corners get bead or tape so they're going to be fine as long as the finisher does a decent job. I assume the OP is talking about the remainder of the wall where mating trim isn't going to be a factor.
The sheet starts to taper ~2 1/4 inches from the edge, so standard base will cover it and the angle is not likely to be noticeable. If you found that it was a problem, you could install thin shim stock along the bottom edge.
If it was important to _not_ have a tapered edge at the floor and the ceiling height was 8' or 12', I'd consider using 54" rock for the bottoms (ripping 6" off each sheet).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Joe wrote:

In addition to Mikes comments (good ones) I will add that there is an additional advantage to horizontal. Most people will not notice a seem at four foot as much as they will an eight foot seem every four feet.
--
Joseph Meehan

Dia \'s Muire duit
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Also, *much* easier to get a nice finished seam on a long horizontal run that is at about waist high than it is on a 8 foot vertical seam where you'll be going from being down on your knees to being several steps up a ladder.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The Streets wrote:

Plus around 1/3 less footage of seams for horizontal.
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Why not just split the sheet down the middle and put the cut edge to the floor/ceiling?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Noozer wrote:

Then you have two seams 4' apart. I would have gone vertical with the joint to not have the taper at the bottom.
Rich
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Noozer wrote:

Doubles the footage of seams.
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Depends on the type of molding to be used. Its its a 4" colonial base, not a problem at all.
Otherwise a nice fat flat knife can apply the extra mud needed to level it out. Its more work than necessary in my own opinion, but to each his own.
# Fred # wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.