Mower blade problem

[masinick]

There was a weird sound coming from my riding mower the other day, so I decided to check it out and change the blades in the process. This is a mower that I inherited with my house (Craftsman DLT2000), so I don't have the manual.

One of the blades changed fine... the other one has a pretty big issue. First, it appears that the metal star shaped piece that the blade is supposed to fit into before being screwed in has been ground down completely. This is what the horrible noise was... the blade was flopping around without being firmly attached to the drive.

Anyway, anyone have advice on how to attach the blade to the drive shaft outside of buying a new drive part? Is it possible to drill two more small holes in the blade and the drive to attach two more bolts to firm up the connection? Or can I use some special thicker washer to make it stay in position?

Last time I ordered a part from sears it was a nightmare, so I'd rather fix it on my own if possible.

[RayV]

The mower is most likely model number 917.272263 and you probably need to replace part # 174360. I've always had good luck with sears when ordering parts maybe your last time was a fluke.

I would call 1-800-252-1698 and have the part delivered to a local sears store or parts outlet. If you do it that way you don't pay shipping and can refuse the part if it is wrong when you go to pick it up.

If you want to do it online go to

I doubt you can fix the mower without replacing the shaft.

[Jimi]

Hello,

You don't need to deal with Craftsman regarding the parts. The drive part can be bought at a generic lawn mower supply center... I had a Craftsman with the same problem and the drive part mentiioned is about 5-10 bucks at Princess Auto (Canada here).....you just need to know the shaft size....best to just bring in the old part with you...Hope that was of some help....Jimi

[masinick]

I had no idea the Sears online system was that good. Thanks guys!

[hallerb]

Getting parts from Sears has been a big loser for me, they tend to be much more expensive:( like twicxe the price....

[mm]

Not home *repair* but my brother got me a birthday present from

Brookstone (not an endorsement)

and when I wanted to exchange it for something I wanted, the only thing I could find was Web/MailOrder only, and when I asked if I could deliver it to the store, they said yes. Later, when I actually went to order it**, they told me it was $12 shipping TO the STORE, same as to my house.

So, there's a big difference between hardware and overpriced gifts, but I hope shipping to the store remains free everywhere it is free now, including other gift stores.

I pointed out that no one else charges for shipping to the store, but he didn't care, and I might be wrong about nobody else. I pointed out that they get shipments every week from the same place my order was coming from and it costs them practically nothing to include another 1 pound item, but they seemed to have the notion that all shipping should be calculated individually at rates comparable to $12, and the cost of shipping regular stock to their store was not something they thought about.

The manager said years ago they delivered for free to the store, but no one was having things delivered to their homes because of that. So what's wrong with that? Obviously, they didn't want to pay for shipping when the store gets shipments every week anyhow. Even if it isn't for a month, I would wait a month. Bah, bah, bad Brookstone.

**I didn't really want it either but I had to use up the money.

[masinick]

Ok, I ordered and received the new part. I got the mower deck assembly off (which I can tell is going to be a real B$TCH to get back on).

There is a bolt on the top of the mandrel that holds the belt pulley in place and I assume secures the mandrel into position as well. The problem is that this bolt is on there REAL tight and the current mandrel spins when I try to remove it. I can't grab it with enough leverage, no matter what tool I use, to hold the mandrel in place and get the bolt off. Any thoughts on a method to keep the thing from spinning so that i can really put some muscle into the bolt?

[sky]

[Stubby]

I just went through this. I used penetrating oil from the top of the mandrel and around the bold head, I applied heat from a torch (MAPP) and tapped it with a hammer. Suddenly it came loose.

[e-mail] wrote:

[masinick]

Any suggestions for a guy with normal tools? =) I've been meaning to buy a small torch... perhaps this is the opportunity.

[sky]

[sky]

[sky]

[Stubby]

Be careful about pipe wrenches on the mandrels. At least on my old Sears mower the blade is held in a fixture attached to a cup that covers the bottom of the mandrel. The cup serves to keep dirt out of the bearing. You would be tempted to put a wrench on the cup, but it won't take the strain!

But using the blade(s) still in place and having a socket wrench on the center bolt, should be able to get it apart. Now, if you need more torque, slip a piece of iron pipe (black) over the socket wrench to give it a longer handle.

Things are a bit different when you try to mow a large rock and break a mandrel. A local welding shop tried to help but in the end I had to purchase a new one for $85. And I was able to find a Sears parts store that had some in stock!

sky wrote:

[Stormin Mormon]

Vise grips. Pipe wrench.

If it's a walking mower, extend the handle of the pipe wrench out the chute where the grass exits. 18 inch pipe wrench will help

Good luck. Please let us know what worked.

[Stormin Mormon]

Sometimes car repair garage guys like a little variety. Like the guys on alt.hvac, when they get tired of abusing home owners, they flame each other.